A very quick test after a fortuitous discovery. My 26” octagonal double diffused soft box, can take the grid from my square 24” one, the one that gets no love because it is a pain to transport and use. I think that one may be cut up into 4 triangle reflector panels.

The basic set up;

1.2m to the black backdrop from light head,

then 1m to camera with a 35mm eq. lens to fill the frame,

light as noted on the back of the light (60%) and camera to what ever will expose ok.

The egg crate grid really does make a difference. The small soft box is already reasonably well controlled, the trade off for a less powerful working distance to softness ratio, but the grid does help focus the light down even further. There was also a drop off of about one stop of light, which may come in handy as the SL-60 only goes down to 10%, which is still quite bright.

I did not test my 7” diffusers, but I am guessing that the next step down would be one of those with a diffusion cloth over it, then a bare diffuser, then grids (60 to 10 degree).

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While I had the set-up made, I tried out the 4’ models, important as I just bought 2 more with grids.

As undiffused deep silver brollies, they are well enough controlled. I have no explanaition for the hotter bottom section. I checked everything was straight and repeated, but still no clue.

With the diffuser, the light is wider, softer and transitions more gently. Notice the even bleed onto its own top edge. These are obviously more even as they spread compared to the much smaller 26”. Good stuff to know.

I am guessing, based on above, that the grids will give me the softness of the diffuser with about the same spread as the bare mod and a drop off of about a stop or so in power. The Godox mods may also be different to the Neewers (or more likely be identical!), so I will have access to a massive 8x8’ wall of light, soft or brilliant, or 2x double diffused 4’ mods, with or without grids and could theoretically grid a bare mod for even more focus and brilliance. I will do a better test of these when the grids come.

I have not been using these enough. They have a good centre of balance, are wind resistant, can take any light I have, are deep for better directionality, bright-really bright and now, with grids and extra units coming, can add depth, multi angle coverage, massive power and/or control. I watched a Joel Grimes video once where he used a large wall of light mods to cover a moving model, which I guess, I can now do also.

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Just for fun, I thought I might try a 33” silver. These are pretty cheap stuff, so the “black” lining did little to actually stop stray light. I quickly brushed this in to remove the distraction, the edge “bleed” is actually just my rough brush work.

I also tried a white, but the amount of light coming through the top exceeded the amount reflected, making the test pointless. Handy to know anyway. Apparently you do not lose any light using translucent brollies for bounce compared to backed ones, which seems odd considering how much went through.

Well enough controlled for my super light* light kit’s version of above maybe. Again more light lower down, so it is either the light, the floor bounce or I am not as careful as I would like to think.

The little 26” Double diffused soft box is a nice option for the SL-60. With the grid, I feel I now have several levels of control in a nice neutral light. Add a brolly and I can tackle most subjects.

*In a small bag in my car, just in case, is a trio of cheap stands, 2 white, 1 gold and 1 silver 33” brollies, a pair of the bad brolly clamps (not the good C-type, the fiddly ones) and a reflector clamp. Just add a 216 or 176 LED or a pair of flash units and a 5-in-1 for a go anywhere lighting kit.