I have done a lot of research lately.

This is usually fun for me, but only when my interest is piqued or focussed on the subject at hand, which is videography. Because it is new to me technically and inspirationally it has never felt like hard work. I am far too excited for that, but it has felt pretty full on, so clear wins are grabbed with both hands.

The tools I have discovered in my research have been accumulating slowly but surely and I feel it is time now to look at what the part time or beginner film maker needs to look at and some ways of addressing them.

Video (obviously).

Picture or footage is obviously important. It is not the only element, but without video you have no….video, so we don’t have any reason to be here.

First up, you need at least one decent video camera (DSLR/mirrorless, or 4K video camera etc) and preferably another option as backup or for other angles (phone, older camera). If these match in colour and settings, life will be easier, but use what you have.

My tools of choice are an Olympus EM1 mk2 (I have one specifically allocated to video), and the Osmo Pocket mk1, which allows me to always have a video camera with me. The EM1x and my other EM1 mk2 are also set up for video (back thumb dial to 2) while shooting stills as the hand held option for secondary angles etc. These are going to be used in 4K at 24 frames (and 1/48th) or 60fps for the Osmo, even though my client/employer rarely needs anything more than 720 U-Tube quality for social media.

Paying attention to some basic rules is important.

Video and composition;

• Use the 180 degree rule (shutter speed set at 2x frame rate) to give you the best quality footage.

• Use All-i compression over IPB for quality. It is less necessary if there is not much movement in a shot, but if you can and have the space, use it for file quality.

• Shoot in LOG or Flat colour profile if you intend to post process/colour grade your work.

• 24fps is the most natural looking and the industry standard, but 60fps allows for natural slow motion, helps in brighter light and smooths out fast action.

• Be aware of the rule of thirds to use it either correctly or creatively and know why you are breaking the rules.

• Keep movements to a minimum and make them as smooth and deliberate as possible. Buy the right accessories for the right job.

• Natural movements are; Panning, tilting, pushing in, pulling out , tracking/trucking, camera rolls, static camera, arcing and booming. These will all feel and look right.

• Unnatural movements are; zooming, focus racking, hand holding without stabilisers. These all add a feeling of tension, but are less natural looking and show the process, so use them deliberately for effect only.

• Plan and justify (make sense of) movements, be they at the camera end or the subjects.

I have a decent tripod with a smooth video head for pan and tllt, a 120cm rail for sideways and angled tracking/trucking and push in-pull out moves, a gimbal for hand holding the Olympus, but also the Osmo for proper gimbal work, because the Neewer-Oly rig takes some practice and is heavy.

Lighting;

• Always shoot towards the shadow side of a face.

• Control light whenever possible. Use cool blue/green backgrounds contrasted with warm main or rim lights for best effect.

• Always “justify” your light (make it make sense) and balance it, making it look natural.

• Lean towards less light not more.

I have a basic 3 light kit. The 660 bi-colour Neewer LED is my main or key light, often diffused behind a screen or through a diffuser cloth. The 480 RGB light adds colour contrast to backgrounds (usually cooler) and the little 176 LED is my hair or warm balance light. They all run off the same batteries or ac power. More small lights would help make backgrounds interesting.

Sound:

Sound is more important to get right than video. Poor sound kills good video, but mediocre video can survive with good sound.

• Employ the right mic for the job. It is not necessary to get a handle on the cardioid patterns of various mics, just apply the right mic to the job. Shotgun mics are good for aiming at single people from a camera or even better a boom. LAV mics are best for distances or multiple people mic-ed up separately, wide area stereo mics are best for performances etc.

• Control your environment. Echoes need to be avoided or mitigated which is often as easy as a soft blanket hung off a stand or placed on the floor. Avoid large indoor spaces like gyms for best sound.

• Get you mic as close to the subject as possible, especially if the environment is poor.

My gear consists of the Zoom H1n for area capture and as a pre amp between another mic and camera (which makes all other mics better) and allows for separate sound recording to camera, the Rode Video Micro, Boya MM1 (same as the Mono version) and Neewer CM-14 shotguns (they each sound and act slightly different and are cheap enough to collect for depth), a Boya BY-M1 LAV, which can run through or from the Zoom (I intend to add another LAV and a splitter).

These are not the writings of a long term veteran in this field, rather the result of a pretty intense six months of transition from long time stills to part time video shooter. Still photography is a good platform for any videographer, but I have actually found that learning video has helped my still shooting as much if not more.

I hope my time spent researching and my very basic summation of what I have learned is of help.