Big Wheels Keep Turning (Or The $10 Fix).

My Smallrig follow focus has been a good investment, but the gear (43T or 43 tooth) is designed for fairly short stills lens focus throw. To focus a stills lens from close to infinity may only take 60-90 degrees of rotation, which the 43T is ideal for.

The problem I have arises when you have the option of setting your stills lenses to a longer 180-270 degree throw or you employ actual cinema lenses.

My Spectrum, Sirui and IRIX lenses are either 270 or 180 degree throw, which when used with the 43T takes two or more full rotations of the focus wheel to go from close to infinity focus and usually requires you take your hand off, interrupting smooth focus to go from even near to relatively near. This means it is sometimes easier to just use the lens as is, which is pointless.

The 65T gear, discovered when I was looking for a rotation handle or similar for the follow focus rig (it has a square hollow in the handle that looked like it might have a use, but no) effectively halves the rotations.

The gear wheel is about twice the size of the original, making the focus rig quite a bit bigger, but the throw is much better and the focus wheel sits out more evenly.

I will hang on to the 43T for the odd stills lens I may adapt, but I doubt I will use it otherwise except for maybe macro work.

ed. another benefit is when the rig is reversed (when on a shoulder rig), the focus control now sits out far enough to be turned with my right hand.

The (Mostly) Blessings That Are Zoom Audio Recorders

I have relied on Zoom recorders of various types since the beginning of my video/audio journey.

The H1n

Cheap, light and capable. You can do and learn a lot with this little unit and it seemed very natural that it would float to the top in my early days.

The H1n was a sound (eh!) investment and the first one that many make on their journey to something better. Even professionals would rather a H1n to most other non specialist sound recorder options and it is very versatile.

This mic is sensitive, but has quite high self noise (only an issue in quiet situations like studios). It is a good device to learn when or even if this matters.

The trick with this little guy is to think outside of the box. It is light enough to go into a suit pocket as a LAV recorder or even just as is. It can be mounted in odd places with screws or tape, used as a backup or even on camera. It is a little like the OSMO Pocket of the sound world.

The H5

I bought the H5 to be a “proper” interface with a pair of Lewitt 040 Match pencil condensers. It did improve my recording options and quality, even though I did not think the actual utility of the unit through for my needs at the time.

I would guess the H5 is the most popular or at least best known single pro-am Zoom or even non-Zoom unit* because it is versatile, tough and decently good at everything it does.

It is often the logical next step for those wanting to enter this space, then holds on longer than many as a decent enough answer for even seasoned pro’s. It is in a word “handy”.

An updated H5 with quieter amps and a better interface would probably be the G9II of the audio world.

Needed accessories for mounted use. A bit much for a small rig.

The H5 added a pair XLR inputs, a lot of recording options, removable capsules and better self noise than the H1n. It is solid, reliable, has good battery life with capsules and records nice sound, but it has a fiddly menu, not the best self noise performance in it’s class, its battery life suffers* when powering condenser mics and it is too cumbersome to use with a camera rig (although I have seen plenty try!).

Capsules

Only a sample of the options on offer, but some of the strongest. The dual XLR capsule EXH-6 is solid and clean, the SSH-6 is a powerful shotgun and mid-side mic, the XYH-6 has 90 and 120 degree cover and the XYH-5 has shock mounts.

For the H5, H8 and F1, I have the two X/Y capsules, the SSH-6 mid-side shotgun and the twin XLR adapter.

The XLR unit seems quieter than the ports in the H5 in both ways. They are clean, but about two notches on the dial less sensitive.

The SSH-6 keeps floating to the top of my just get-it-done list with clear and powerful pickup.

Neither of the XY capsules get much use, but they are handy to have. The XYH-6 seems to be the better of the two, the XYH-5 is reserved for on camera use with the F1.

The F1

The little F1 on its efficient shock mount (warning though, once mounted it is hard to remove), the SSH-6 and XYH-5 capsules and the little power bank that partially fixed my broken battery door troubles (note the cable tie).

The F1 was bought in response to the H5’s bulk being unrealistic for on camera shotgun mic work, which annoyed me with excellent the SSH-6 at hand. I bought the LAV option as it was cheaper and the second shotgun held no interest.

The F series are “field”, not “handy” recorders, meaning they put sound quality over other factors, but the F1 is a contradiction, being so small it is handier even than the H1n and it takes capsules. I am torn which is the better LAV option out of the H1n and F1, so both are capable, but for on-camera work there is no comparison.

There are some other things going on though.

The battery issues from the H5 are a thing**, but worse and the fiddly little battery cover door is a disaster. When it is not broken it was fiddly and the frustrating. When it is broken, which most do it turns out, it is “throw it against the wall” annoying.

This also highlights the lack of local service options for Zoom. They have a warranty, but outside of that you are mostly on your own.

With the need to change batteries almost every time you use it for serious work, my door being held tight by cable ties, it is something I tend to just avoid, which is a shame**.

I can’t remember the self noise figures, but I think the F1 may be as good as the H8 with capsules, or even better and with the shock mount and SSH-6, it is a very decent shotgun/mid side mic. The manual volume dial is really intuitive.

Most Zoom devices share similar controls, the manual dial is my favourite, but the menues are usually different enough to need some practice. Even terminology like the handling of “mid-side” angles is different on every unit!

The power fix is a separate 5v power dock, which does ask the question why Zoom decided to use different connection ports for their H5, H1n and F1 units? More frickin’ cables!

I could have called it quits here, but a desire to run more than four XLR mics or more than two condensers (which need power from the unit, something the XLR adapter does not offer), got me looking at the F6, AMS-24 and H8. What tipped me over was price once I had read the H8 had better amps on it’s XLR ports than he H5/6, nearly as good as the F6 and the potential of even more mics.

The H8

Quite a different beast, especially with the EXH-6 capsule (which weighs half as much as the recorder).

The H8 is a monster, although only actually a little bigger than the H6, just very differently shaped.

With adapters it can take as many as 10 XLR mics, which is a whole rock band*** and the amps for these are better than the other H series units, although the capsule performance is apparently the same as the H5 and H6 recorders. The F6 is still better (-127 compared to -124 db self noise), but not by much so the H8 is plenty and takes more mics (8 with my setup) as well as other capsules.

The one area the F6 excels in mounting directly under a camera, but with cable running all over the place, that hardly reduces clutter.

The menu is a vast improvement over the other units using a colour touch screen interface, split menus for its several different roles and better battery life (and indication) than the others. I also appreciate most features have their own switch, which sometimes makes it feel like it has fewer features.

It is an odd creature, bigger than the H5, but smaller in scale, meaning the dials are smaller, the buttons tighter and it is blacker, harder, lighter and flatter feeling than the H5. It actually feels like it is made by a different company.

It also allows access to some extra capsules, like the ambisonic VRH-8, the powered EXH-8 4x XLR/TRS addition (10 XLR’s!), the XAH-8 X/Y+A/B (which I wish it came with), making it another class of interface in several ways.

AMS-24

This one fills a hole in my kit. I cannot power condenser microphones (Lewitt LCT 240 and 040) with anything small and light weight on a video rig. The F1 and dual XLR capsule does not supply power, the H5 is bulky and lacks contact points, the H8 is even worse.

At under 200g (with batteries), this can take two powered XLR mics and feed them out to a video camera (via the headphone output or USB-C). It can connect to the rig via soft strapping, be clamped or stuck to the rig or mic bracket or put into my pocket even. It is even light enough to just “dangle” if needed. One handy setup is to strap it to a power bank.

It also has the before unrealised benefit of allowing easy control of incoming and outgoing sound with main control dials. This is especially handy with less sensitive Dynamic mics, where you can set your incoming and out going gain in better balance. The other Zooms have easy incoming control, but often output is less intuitive (menu dive in the H5).

I can even use it to remotely run a couple of mics outside of, or to the H8.

*

Like a lot of things in my kit, the Zooms are an odd mix, but they work and no single item is useless or easily improved upon.

So, what is my take after a few years and a few units?

Overall I like them which I guess is obvious by my support of their line, as they are often the most flexible and straight forward answer, but they are not perfect. I really like how they just work and I rarely feel let down by the results, but their physical design is all over the place.

The company reminds me of Fuji. They are capable of anything, but department “A” and department “X” seem to operate in their own worlds and they rarely fix known issues (like the F1’s battery door).

I get excited by the options available, like the UAC-232 or M series, F2 and F3 float recorders and the F6 field recorder amongst others, but for now I am happy enough.

Most issues are fixable because above all else, they are flexible. Most are a recorder, an interface and a mic and the more I research sound options for musicians and videographers, the more Zoom devices I tend to see.

*The H6 takes 4 XLR mics, but is just that bit bigger and sound performance is much the same. The H4n is an H5 without a removable capsule and the original H4 has H1n grade amps. The H2 is interesting, but I have done its role several ways.

**The Zoom H5 and F1’s seem to have poor battery indicators with rechargeable batts, rarely giving three bars even with fresh Eneloop pro batts (set correctly), then drop to one bar very quickly and leave you unsure from that point when they will fail (often not for a while), so you change them over and over and I do not feel like trusting them for a 1hr video recording. It can be a little like driving a car on empty, not knowing when the actual “reserve” will give out. This is fixed with external 5v power from power banks, but that is the only option and adds more complication.

***A singer and their guitar, 3-4 amps or straight connections, overheads and main drums and a spare or two and/or the whole thing from a mixer.

Another Nifty Fifty..............Really?

Plenty of choice in this range now with the Sirui 24mm Nightwalker arriving.

Maybe an over serviced focal length?

Blue ring. The IRIX and this one stand out as different in a lot of ways.

Cosmetically, more of a middle ground look. Not overly cine, not stills.

To my surprise they are all similar in size. The surprise came from a massive difference in heft.

My oddly shaped cine kit seems to have balance still, in a literal sense anyway. The Sirui feels nicely weighted, but more like a solid stills lens.

The Spectrums are only a little heavier apparently, but the heft, their feeling of solidness is clearly greater, like the difference between aluminium and steel.

Very different up front. The 67mm filter thread gives me access to the bulk of my filters on a cine lens.

The lighter weight is a boon on the better stabilised M43 camera, the extra weight of the Spectrum lenses makes the S5 with its larger sensor and less efficient stabilising, more stable.

The mount is tight and clean, unlike the 12mm Vision lens.

The focus and aperture rings are a surprise. The Vision and Spectrum lenses are generally slightly damped, often the focus ring a little less than the aperture ring although they are seldom the same as each other, but the Sirui seems to have no dampening on either ring.

I am not at all bothered by the focus ring as it is fine and will usually have a follow focus used with it, but the aperture ring is something I will have to watch, possibly even tape it into place.

Wide open, focus is seemingly easy to acquire thanks to good contrast and sharpness (all images are with base Capture 1 in-out settings on an OM1.2), but depth of field is full frame-like.

Most of this series were in focus more or less, which considering it is my fastest lens (T1.2 or about F1.1), accuracy was tricky. The Bokeh is nice and clean, depth of field pleasantly transitioned and colour and contrast nice. There may be a little more brilliance to this lens than the Spectrums, but the Bokeh seems less gentle.

I remember being very content with the organic Bokeh of the Spectrum lenses. The Sirui sits about half way between the Spectrum and most of my stills lenses. It is capable of very nice blur, but it is also sometimes a little nervous, especially with defined edges.

Minimum focus is 0.3m, which is closer than this. Is it super stills lens sharp? No, but it is not meant to be and again, this is wide open at f-nothing.

The lens is a 48mm equivalent, but looks a little wider possibly because of some barrel distortion in close.

All 50’s in one form or another.

Lots of 50mm options (ten or more over the three formats), so an obvious base line to work from.

According to a test I have seen, the 35 Vision and 24mm Sirui are apparently similar in warmth (although I am not seeing that above), the 50mm cooler, the 35 and 50 match in “rendering” but not colour, the Sirui is a little different, but I think they and the IRIX can all be used in the same projects without too much issue.

My ideal cine lens would be the 30mm IRIX full frame which would also be a 45mm in APS-C, but the bill for that one is more than everything above. In an ideal world it would be the 21/32, 45/67, 65/98 and 150/225 IRIX, but in an ideal world there would be no wars, no famine, no disasters.

This is the cheap and solid option for my M43 kit and it fits well. The anamorphic 24mm was also tempting and a good point of difference, but I would like to put that to bed. I will try this lens with streak filters and some 2:1 anamorphic width and see what I get.

Next on the list is the Zoom M3 mic, which looks interesting.


Funny Little Lens, The TT Artisans 35mm f1.4.

Reading up on a hair brained idea (buying a 30mm f1.4 IRIX Dragonfly I found cheap in EF mount and adapting it to M43 and L-Mount), I rediscovered a couple of bits I had forgotten about.

The TTArtisans 35 f1.4 (L-Mount), that I bought last year to add to my full frame kit was a quickly forgotten curiosity, mostly because I did not use the S5 much and when I did, I kept it simple with the 20-60 zoom.

All metal including the screw in cap, the lens feels premium.

Being a crop frame lens, we are dealing with an APS-C or Super 35, 50mm or a 70mm in MFT format (where it may be less “characterful”).

The rings are befuddling. The aperture ring (front) is tiny and feels like it runs the wrong way (f1.4 is on the left end). The focus ring at the back is hard to locate, defies follow focus alignment and feels like it should be the aperture ring.

For a budding retro cinematographer or “old school” stills shooters it is probably a dream lens.

The brass tacks of it though is it is a very mixed, dare I say optically confronting bit of kit.

Full frame is not a serious option, looking more like the results from a Holga or Diana plastic film camera. The vignetting is cool/crap also with some “magnifying glass” edge artefacts at smaller apertures. Wide open at longer distances it is just cleanly “peep-hole” darkened.

Bought with character in mind, it seems I succeeded.

A rough APS-C crop. Nice, snappy separation wide open, massive edge distortion and muted colour. Maybe a perfect start for a fake anamorphic?

Bokeh like it’s 1979!

In focus we get snappy sharpness and pleasing blur. Distortion is a very real thing though.

The Bokeh in this shot is very reminiscent of the old 1960’s Pen F series half frame 25mm I have, as is the colour. When taking these, focus was a little hard to get. Peaking was a little fickle thanks to low contrast and a very thin plane of sharpness, but I hit more than I missed overall. It helps when you are not going for perfection from the get-go.

For stills, it shoots square well, giving you all the height of the frame almost the perfect cut off point to avoid the corner vignetting.

Dizzy yet? This image had a boost in contrast to combat the often flat look. Flat = cinematic = good?

Maybe a candidate for a faux anamorphic look, shot full frame with a 2:1 crop, a streak filter if I can step it down to the odd 39mm thread and then see what happens.

The focussing thing is problematic as 3ft to infinity is a thin hair of range, but maybe I have my itch for an anamorphic look answered?

At about 2:1 the far corners are lost to weirdness, the rest though is interesting. This is at f4 up close, so the vignetting takes on a whole other thing (top right).

Full Frame, What Would I Do Differently?

If I could wind the clock back to last year, with perfect hindsight of course, I would have either not done it at all, or saved a lot of money by chasing just the cinematic side of it.

The Lumix S primes are nice lenses. They are sitting in an odd spot in my kit/life.

They are auto focus lenses supported by a decent AF stills camera, but a video camera with issues. These issues are only highlighted by the newer S5 series, but even more so by the G9II.

Taken on my cheapest lens, the TTArt 35 f1.4 ($75au) which is very unlike these consistently sharp, modern and matched ones.

If used for stills only, Sigma makes a cheaper, smaller and sharper set.

If you take AF out of the equation, then the cinema lenses I have recently bought are better options for video. These have more character and are substantially cheaper (2:1 in this case).

The “other” three, the three I like to use and feel are better bang for my cinema buck.

It seems I have either;

A second “modern” cinema set,

or

A stills set, which could have been cheaper.

or

A hybrid set, with a better cinema option available.

The cine glass was a steal and it mostly came first, but I still went with completing the S-prime set?

I have two each of the 35 and 50mm full frame lenses, the cine lenses are my favourite.

I only have one 85mm, but I would have likely skipped this focal length for video with APS-C 75mm available (or bought the 85 Spectrum).

I have a 150mm macro, which to be honest is the oddest of oddities, but great fun and an equally good/bad fit for either set.

For cinema, wider is not really an issue, so the 20-60 can do that, but if I was only doing cinema lenses, the new 7Art 14mm would have done (or the IRIX 30mm for less than the three Lumix primes). The ideal in hind sight would have probably been the 30 and 150 IRIX for about $3k.

An even smarter idea may have been to do only Sirui Nightwalker lenses in M43 and APS-C L mount as perfectly matched sets, although they are poorly matched within their own range lens to lens. For example, two Sirui 24’s acting as a 35 in L-mount and 50mm in M43 mount equivalents would match perfectly, then a pair of 55’s (110 in M43, 85 in L-mount), but the 24 and 55 are slightly different to each other in colour.

All four would have come in under the Lumix S lenses, with room for maybe another like the 35 (50) in L mount.

Got to stop living in my recent past and embrace (or sell) all of my kit, but in answer to the question, I would have rigged up the S5 as a cinema camera (with Spectrum and/or IRIX lenses) and mostly left stills to M43, or gone M43 all up, or just bought the S-primes, but then I would have missed out on those bargains.

Best Buys Of The Year

Looking back at a mixed year, what were the best things I invested in, the things that made a genuine difference, expected or not.

#1

Panasonic G9 Mk2

Not much I can really say here. In a time where M43 is under porbably more pressure than ever, this camera (along with the OM-1) are proving not only the relevance of the system, but also the power of the smaller sensor, the system and the math of the whole thing.

An odd paradigm has emerged in my gear. I have never felt more content or enabled by M43, with many avenues still to be explored (10-25 f1.7, OM-1 etc), but I seem to be spending a lot more on full frame lenses?

It is almost like M43 has become my stable, safe, go-to format and full frame is filling the role of the “curiosity”, the hobby format.

I can barely believe that in the months prior I was torn between a Sigma FP, Black Magic pocket and the GH5II for a video upgrade. The G9II smashes these in all the important areas, offering a huge array of recording formats, class leading stabilisation**, class competitive AF, decent enough high ISO performance (the lens/depth of field advantage is at play here) and all for a fraction of the cost of its real competition.

Unlike the S5 which is a bit of a specialist (see the next entry) or even the very capable S5II, the G9II is the perfect all-rounder and a genuine hybrid. Capable of anchoring a serious video rig, it is also the king of run-n-gun, no accessory video performance, as well as a stills camera upgrade in a decently priced mid range camera.

For me, it is the first of the next generation of “no excuses” hybrids. Cameras that can be bought with one role in mind or both.

There are cheaper cameras but they are dated, better cameras but they are much dearer and often still fall short somewhere and the closest matches have a mix of features that for me are nowhere near as harmonious. It is interesting to note that Sony FX3 cameras are often compared to Panasonic S5IIx’s, which apart from the bigger sensor are less well specified than a G9II.

Could G9II’s have made a movie like the Creator and even offered some small advantages in handling, flexibility and costs?

Probably.

The apertures used wold be wider for the same depth of field effect, thus allowing for lower ISO’s and the look might change, but probably not and the handling of the camera would be vastly different, for the better.

They have more in-camera video features than even the FX3, can match them with off board performance only losing a stop or maybe two of dynamic range, have plenty of anamorphic lenses available and more often than not, the big Ronin gimbal would have been surplus. The high ISO difference can be balanced by depth of field and magnification advantages of M43 mount lenses.

#2

The IRIX 150 Macro

The G9II highlighted the almost pointless divergent path for me last year that was full frame, but the lens bargains I have picked up have helped justify my two format kit.

The two 7Artisan Spectrum lenses and the IRIX were all bought for less than the IRIX alone at normal price. The IRIX was the ultimate spontaneous purchase, defying logic in many ways, but unlike the G9II, which was very much a head and gut choice, the IRIX was all heart and it does make my heart sing.

The S5 has fallen into its proper role of support or “static” camera to the more flexible G9II. The IRIX has massively increased its utility. Ironically, these cine lenses and the Lumix S-primes (just edged out for number 5 spot), have stolen the limelight from the G9II, something I need to get sorted**, but at least the S5 has been getting some love.

#3

5.11 Range Ready Bag

For only $150au, this is as close to the perfect cinema gear bag I have seen and at less than a quarter of the price of the photo brands.

The rear pocket holds 8 batteries (not pistol magazines!), coincidentally Panasonic or NP550 sized. The two front pockets take mat boxes and their filters like they were made for them. The large end pocket takes a 7” monitor, the smaller one takes my 5”. The main compartment is capable of taking a whole rig ready to go or the parts of several. It is rigid enough to stack and even full it is comfortable to carry.

The whole bag screams “industrial grade”, something many top price camera bags fail at.

#4

Lewitt LCT 240 Pro

Of my huge and mostly under used sound kit, the bedrock mics, the ones that could do almost anything I need are the pairs of Lewitt 040 Match pencil condensers and LCT 240 medium diaphragm condensers. The 040’s are old news, the 240’s are my best sound (most sound?) purchases this year and I bought a lot of mics.

I can do an interview, band, orchestra or individual performance, field, room, overhead, amp, studio, booth, even camera mounted recording and the sound quality is knocking on the door of the LCT 440 Pure, a genuinely well thought of pro studio mic. Sometimes it is even the better choice.

All this for under $200au.

Between these two pairs and the pair of MTP 440 dynamics bought for clean low end, I have a three way fix that works together, separately or as a matched unit.

Five of the six in the set.

#5

Zoom H8

A soft one this one, more of a logical upgrade like the G9II than a bolt of lightning from nowhere. I was keeping an eye on the price of these for a while and jumped when one came up for under $500au. The H8 adds more inputs, cleaner amps for XLR mics (but not the capsules), several operating modes, some extra effects, a better interface than my other Zoom devices and a very decent X/Y capsule.

This means I have the potential of up to 8 mics (could be 10 with a different accessory), or enough to mic up a small rock band, cover an orchestra with an overhead array with some direct mics to key instruments and/or a vocalist, cover a soloist with multiple mics, three or four singers with instruments, a panel of up to 8 people or any combination of these. It also opens up some interesting options for field recording and I can match mics to the right subject.

Not a high or even mid range specialist interface for serious music or field recording, it is the perfect hybrid enabler for a videographer and has no real weaknesses in any area. It is also an upgrade to the handy H5, releasing that to my podcast kit.

The “Spider” has doubled my sound capabilities.

Honourable mentions go to the S-Prime Lumix lenses, 7artisan cine-primes, the TT1 Pro Lanen condenser mic, Domke F7.

*Unlike the S5’s these can operate without a gimbal, which is the true measure of in-camera stabilisation.

**The Sirui 24mm for the G9/G9II will even this out, making both cameras a good support for the other in their respective roles. The Sirui will sacrifice the AF, but get the benefit of the stabe.

Anamorphic Crunch Time (Or Should That Be "Squeeze Time").

This anamorphic thing seems to be hanging on, but the more I research, the more unsure I become.

The coverage.

This is why I want one. The ability to shoot with a standard lens that is also a wide angle. If standard lenses are my base line, then having one that will make my subjects the same size as they are normally, but with a wider angle of view is a useful, maybe even enabling tool.

I am not interested as much in longer focal lengths, because they have a tight compression effect that is perfectly good as is, nor am I after anything wider, but a standard that is a wide? That is a thing.

The flares.

I bought flare filters (Moment Cinestreak) for the very few times I may want to add them to an otherwise dull scene in gloomy or dramatic light. I am not in love with the effect when over used, or even much at all, but a vehicle at night in an otherwise drab location may benefit from them. I realised the only time I actually liked the look was in an excellent video by Mark Bone on making a documentary about a trail bike legend.

The Bokeh.

Wide screen from a longer lens is fine.

Could not care less about oval Bokeh. Funny how something many dislike in spherical lenses is actually a sign of accomplishment with anamorphic’s. It is to me simply an insiders signature, a mark of coolness for those in the know, but otherwise just an artefact of a technical limitation. Must admit to noticing it a lot more, but before I knew what to look for, it did not register.

Distortions.

Much like Bokeh, I will take what comes, but not chase it in its own right.

Organic look.

This is down to a lot of things, lenses only being one of them.

The Sirui 24mm on MFT is the one that appeals because it seems* that most of the things I could care less about are well controlled, the one thing I do like is ideal at about 2:1 stretch.

So, after some deliberation, I am getting the spherical Sirui 24mm Nightwalker lens. This is on special at the moment and gets me a second cinema lens for M43 (all I need with tele ex options). Too many uncontrollable elements with the anamorphic, that I can apply as needed with regular lenses, but not remove from an anamorphic.

Between M43 and full frame I now have (in ff terms) a 24 mft, 48 mft, 35 ff, 50 ff, 150 ff, 50 aps-c, 75 aps-c, 225 aps-c. It is bit all over the place, but makes some sense to me. Sirui are hinting at another two lenses, hopefully one will be a 16 (32mm on mft). The Nightwalker shares the same 67mm filter thread as the bulk of my M43 lenses, which is handy.

*the lens flare thing is mixed.



A Rig

I have not had much of a chance to set up video rigs lately, some things actually never tried, so while I was “playing”, some snaps and thoughts.

Images taken on an EM10.2 with Helios 58mm 44-2 lens.

An unprocessed file to get started. Smokey.

Now some graded images.

The Portkeys PT5II monitor is small contrasty and well featured. I have another 7” one, but this one is the run-n-gun one. The cabling on this camera is a little messy due to the small HDMI adapter, but on a G9 or G9II it is much cleaner.

A processed image.

The 50 or 35mm 7artisans are perfectly balanced on this rig with the follow focus and the monitor for accuracy make the whole thing very easy to do.

I have ordered the 65T (65 tooth) gear for the follow focus though, because the throw from infinity to close focus with the 43T on my cine lenses is two full revolutions of the wheel. I was looking for a little handle to go into the square hole in the FF, but no such thing it seems.

The chest brace is not one of those things often talked about, but I find it ideal. Resting against any part of my body, the inertia of the whole rig (it is pretty heavy) gives me cinema camera grade (i.e. heavy) stabilising on the S5, rock steady on the G9II and again it is balanced for follow movements off the handle.

The shoulder rig and the G9II are also brilliant, but on the S5 I have to rely on the patchy AF.

The Dragon Looms Large

Year of the Dragon is coming and I may take a lesson from it.

This year and a good part of the one before was a mix of multiple fingers in many pies. Some, like the volunteer projects were spectacular things to be a part of, some like the second school became a mix of repeating past events but differently and the paper paid the bills.

Ultimately, the schools have been a carrot I could never quite reach, the paper a safer bet financially not spiritually, so taking a hint from the Dragon, this year coming I will be cutting loose the things that do not fit and concentrating on those that nourish my soul or my meagre financial needs as needed.

Just do it.

Goodbye to schools it seems.

Scotch Oakburn was the perfect job and little of what I had to offer was ever wasted, but it was not a real job. St Pats was closer to a job, but not as diverse, nor as open to my skill set being biggr, with more resources.

Neither will ever be a replacement for the paper and including them adds a decent but inconsistent income stream, but they also fight for attention in an already crowded space and sometimes the effort is greater than the return (says the guy who does his best work for free!).

I often feel I am trying to get my job to fit me and my capabilities, not the other way around. I have an interest in sound gear, but little use for it, much the same goes for top end video and studio portraits. These things haunt me as unrealised pursuits.

Maybe they should just be regular old hobbies, like most people have, you know, the ones where you don’t need to justify every purchase against its earning potential.

If I just stick to the paper, my volunteer interests and most importantly of all, and this one is actually a bit of a revelation, do something for myself, I may get back some life balance.

In that vein, the Sirui 24 anamorphic is back on my radar just because of the look, just for me, nobody else and my projects are turning a little more towards the things I am passionate about.

Happy holidays.


What's In A Shape?

This is a re-tread of an older article, but I write what is on my mind, so here we go;

Often when I or others talk about M43 format it is purely from a quality perspective. To be honest I am well and truly over that. I have a full frame again now, plenty of good glass and I see little real difference in objective quality for most uses.

The shape however has been a more interesting journey.

When processing the files for a new project, 3:2 ratio was needed to fit the one rectangle, three square grouped print format we will be using.

I have just been reminded what a pain that is to work with.

In the images above, the exaggerated 3:2 ratio shows it’s worst attribute, cramping the vertical composition. The 4:3 is far more relaxed, even the square, not properly composed for that format feels better.

The three above show the other side of this. The 4:3 file as shot has a useful shape for cropping. The 3:2 changes little except add a feeling of less headroom, the 16:9 looks more dramatically cinematic, tighter, but for a reason and the wider view fits the way we see the world better. If you draw in tighter with the 3:2, you lose width.

In the end a 3:2 ratio crops down to wide screen with less waste, 4:3 crops square better.

A little history.

The so called “full frame” format was a Frankenstein’s Monster created mid 20th century and was effectively a second bite at taking the one existing roll-film stock (35mm movie film) into a useful small stills camera format.

Used as the film industry did, it was naturally in “portrait orientation”, because stills cameras lay the film on its side. Half frame was basically Super 35 format sideways, but there were two problems.

The first was one of framing. Portraits were the original hero images, but as the landscape and groups of people became more important to photographers, vertical framing became less useful.

A very typical landscape image taken with a 3:2 ratio compact camera by a friend.

More power comes with less image. Instead of scanning up-down, you are now drawn side to side.

The second problem was one of quality.

Moving stock can hide a multitude of sins, but stills shooters were putting this mini format up against medium and large format cameras. It was a big ask, especially early on. Laying the film on its side and increasing the overall length fixed both of these problems.

The result was a publishers nightmare.

Too wide or tall for a decent book or magazine fit forced constant cropping and a need for photographers to shoot with that in mind (most top end magazine editors demanded 6x6 to crop or 6x7 negatives, dismissing even the best 35mm images for their shape).

As the above lens test images show, there can be a lot of “negative” space in a 3:2 ratio image. It can cramp vertically, have too many distracting elements, lack strength and be a waste of sometimes limited quality.

Ironically the format was also not wide enough to satisfy the true landscape buffs who wanted at least 2:1 ratio.

If you look at all other formats available at the time, 4x5, 5x7, 8x10, 6x4.5, 6x6, 6x7, 3, 4 or 5:1 panoramic or even 126 format, no other format is so rectangular by nature or occasionally not rectangular enough. Even TV screens jumped from 4:3 ratio to wide screen 16:9, ignoring the in between 3:2 ratio.

On top of that, the format requires a larger lens mount and bigger lenses to service the outer edges of the frame than most other format relative to capture area*. Lens coverage is measured from corner to corner, so the wider the rectangle, the larger the coverage area, much of it wasted.

It was a stretch (in the worst sense), but it was also the peoples format, the format of the modern camera and it was gathering momentum. Like with a lot of things, common sense went out the window, economics took over.

Other formats were available and often professionals would use medium or large format for both the extra quality and the more sensible shape, but 35mm has been the format of the masses since the 1960’s.

All credit to them, the makers produced practical and sexy cameras, so the format as flawed as it was, was convenient, well supported, likeable and cheap, so it managed to rule over all.

So why are we still stuck with 3:2 ratio “full frame” as our go-to format in the digital age?

The great irony of this bastard format being called “full”, when all formats are “full” to their own requirements and what constitutes “fullness” is a matter of opinion if even relevant, still annoys me, but I can move on, really..…I can.

Sure digital is more forgiving of all formats, but it is also more exciting for that. You can have what ever you want, so why does 3:2 rule?

Nikon, Canon and the dregs of the other major brands had a legacy, one that needed feeding while we transitioned from film to digital. Even when economics and tech forced a smaller format on them in early days, they still stuck with 3:2. Makes no sense, but old habits I guess.

If any of these brands actually adopted a 4:3 ratio, they would have instantly improved their ageing lenses performance (removing the pesky extreme corners where things go so wrong**), made their format more compatible with most print formats and reduced the cost of their sensors by a decent percentage***. The actual drop in objective quality would have been insignificant in the real world. I can only assume they kept to the 3:2 shape for consistency, biding their time until the larger 35mm format re-emerged.

Nikon could have kept their mount intact and the all too small Minolta/Sony mount would also not have to force lens design miracles to fit around the cut-off sensor corners****.

They would also have found the format friendlier to the square social media formats and even reduced the need for vertical grips on cameras. It may have even changed the shape of the camera.

Olympus, Panasonic, Black Magic and Fuji were not tied to any tangible legacy. They had the freedom to do as they wished.

M43 is actually the only made to measure, was produced digital camera and lens format designed with many of the above elements in mind. Better lens design, better format fit, smaller cameras and lenses. It has been a long time since I stressed over corner quality, something I was always aware of with earlier Canon full frame DSLR lenses.

It is smaller, but it also makes more sense.

Another irony is the need for full frame champions to push their quality advantage when most formats, now even decent phones, can provide more than enough quality. Full frame is bigger, but the math at play in other areas can even it out as I have discussed previously.

Like Bokeh, we are stuck with the current state and perceptions of this as Sony, Nikon and Canon are writing the history we will be reading, but as with all history, there is always more to it than the big print headlines.

Probably the one shining light for M43 format is open gate video. The 4:3 shape is more versatile for horizontal movie and vertical reel framing, but who said logic will prevail this time around.






*Another area of confusion are print shapes. You can print 8x12 or 8x10, one the “older” shape the other to fit 35mm conventions. There are 35mm equivalents to most regular print shapes but they are the exception, not the rule. In a shop I worked in for over a decade, we used to do a “wedding special” of 6x8 prints on pearl lustre paper on Mondays. Only one of our customers ever asked for or possibly even knew of the 6x9 option we offered. In other words over 99% of our customers were asking for a forced crop print format!

** I remember a sample image from the brand spanking new 5D Mk1 posted, taken with the 17-40 f4L wide open at 17mm. This lens was and is well liked, but in the far corners at wider apertures, these is not discernible resolution. In 4:3 ratio, that would magically disappear. The best match for the circle is of course the square. Just sayin’.

***Sensors are made in wafers and cut down. Flaws are inevitable, making larger wafers less economically reliable. make them smaller and you get more from a wafer.

****Have a look when you can, their sensor corners are actually obscured by the mount flange, making for some pretty interesting, expensive and huge lens designs.

18 Months To See It (Or TARDIS)

I have never felt a good fit for the paper.

I knew before I started that the type of image making the paper needs was never my desired end point.

It took me a while, but I got there.

It is because I have never been a photo maker.

This I made, but it took a little time for the elements to come together. It was what the sitter asked for, job done.

This one came as I was leaving, a moment of recognition, the light, background and feel completely changed.

The closer I come to that successfully is putting people in a space and watching what happens. To take control of space and time (relatively*) and let it come naturally. I rarely have either of these in my daily life at the paper.

Sport is easy for me, because it is all recognition, even off game.

I loved shooting for the first school, because that was exactly what I had, time and space to see images. It felt free and natural to me. Few staged images (but some control and time to prepare), no titles required, just see it, shoot it, move on. The next school is similar, but not quite as easy yet. It will come.

It seems I am a decent photo recogniser or taker if you will.

The paper rarely allows me the time or resources to work as I am best suited, forcing me to adapt, which in turn is robbing me of any real reason to continue. I love photography as I have always loved it. I do not like it much at all in this other, contrived form and never will.

It is not so much a matter or failing to learn new ways, but a recognition of a genuine repulsion to a process and the results there of.

Very much not me, but front page stuff as it goes. It is like an out of body experience some times, like someone else is driving. The worst bit is I know I could have done the kids justice with a little actual rehearsal shooting, but this was all we had time for.

It is not actually new. I recognised this over a year ago, but I managed to push it aside and struggle against it, which explains my sometimes strong feelings of inadequacy and detachment from my work.

The best thing I did was go part time to chase some of the old feeling, but Japan opened my eyes to a missing something, a broken link.

How do I fix this?

Not sure, but just like AA, I guess the first step is genuine recognition and admitting I have a problem, then growing forward from there. I guess also, I have to ask myself if I want to “fix” it at all.

Video is ironically a salve. I shoot mine as an interview is happening, which on one hand gives me a natural feel, but on the other robs me of my best stills.

*Insider Dr Who joke realised there.

The Project

A project involving people on the edge and their pets, highlighting their interdependency has just been completed, well the first step anyway.

Mostly dogs, with some chickens, it started as a beautiful but probably unworkable idea of portrait classes for small (or large) groups of people and their pets, but the project quickly changed as these things do.

The reality that “selfie” style photos would not be suitable or likely possible and that many did not even have the means or even the desire to try them and the lots of people and pets in one place was not possible, forced on us the need for a quick adaption, a massive re-think.

My personal desire was to be as helpful as possible, but to try and stay invisible. I gave myself the role of “tech assist”. I really did not want the project to become an art forum for me or anyone other than the subjects, but it soon became obvious that if we wanted photos of people and their pets and decent ones, consistent ones, that some effort would have to be made by the lone photographer in the room to get at least something done, then use subject contributed images, or the more natural ones from the sitting as supports.

Starting out simply and with the resources at hand (sight unseen before the day), the first group arrived to a small couch covered with a spare 6x9’ grey cloth backdrop (wanted to get it a little less “new” looking anyway) and my basic Manfrotto 1.8x2.4 Grey/Black collapsible (grey size used).

Lighting was kept similarly simple and I really did not want studio perfection, looking more for a fake window light or normal indoor look and too much consistency was also avoided.

One flash and one reversed brolly, then as shoot through, a 4” soft box, sometimes a little fill or hair light, using either a small LED panel or soft box. Nothing too contrived, just lightly applied and unobtrusive. It is amazing how forgiving and flexible this can be when you have the basics down.

I also needed to set-up and pack-up in minutes and work in different locations, so it needed to be portable and have a decently flexible but small footprint.

In the last shoot, I did feel a little more “art” should be applied, worried that the sittings were looking too similar and maybe even run the risk of being a bit stale. I left the Grey/Black behind and decided to give my slightly smaller 1.5x2.1 Pewter/Walnut a go. This did risk the contrived studio look, but maybe I thought, that was just me being overly controlling.

The second last shoot got the so far unused Walnut. When bought I was disappointed a little on close inspection, but of course close inspection was not the idea. It looks every bit as beautiful as the images I have seen. No risk the grey backdrop cloth would look too new after this project (it got peed on three times!).

Not a huge fan of the overly “paint brushed” looking backdrops I see around a lot. The Pewter/Walnut seemed to have enough texture to be characterful, but was subtle enough to be complimentary.

Over done backdrops can anchor the image, or steal its power. I really do not like it when the first thing you see is the backdrop, not the person.

This is the Pewter from another project. Even with this difficult framing, the people are the key.

It was also about the only one I actually liked both sides of.

The Pewter is cool, but neutral and it cam become the colours of my next favourite (Sage and Ink) by simply brushing the backdrop and shifting the colour balance in C1, but it is even more subtle than that.

The Walnut is similar with a warm or cool feel. The overall can go very warm and antique looking, but their is a small hint of steel blue in it that can cool right off. It looks to me for all the world like an old wall, the paint slowly rubbing through revealing past lives.

"Perfection", The Kit

I am putting together my kit for the little video project I am working on, called “Perfection” (TBC). This is a nature based study of my local area.

The idea is to put together a series of sample clips of the amazing things happening around my area using all the tricks the two (three) cameras can offer as well as some stills.

I will use it as a video portfolio and to help get my head around all the techniques on offer.

I do a lot of video regularly. but not with my best stuff or much of a plan.

The gear.

In the Neewer backpack (heavy)

Cameras;

  • G9.2, tripod plate, cage, handle, monitor mount, SSD mount, SSD (flat, 1080, 10 bit/422, 300fps, time lapse).

  • S5, tripod plate, cage, monitor mount (APS-C/ff, 1080, flat, 180 fps, 10 bit/422-420, time lapse).

  • EM1x for stills. Stills are always a video option.

  • Phone as remote for all the cameras.

M43 lenses;

  • 9mm macro wide

  • 12-60 std

  • Sirui 24mm (focus transitions)

  • 40-150 f4

  • 300 f4 + plate

  • 1.4x

Full frame lenses;

  • 85 Lumix

  • 50 Cine (focus transitions)

  • 20-60 kit

  • 150 macro + plate

In the 511 bag (light)

  • OSMO kit which includes pole mounts and an underwater housing (Cine-D, 1080, time lapse/pano, slo-mo, faux drone pole).

Filter kit;

  • 2x Matt box, ND, protect

  • 2x 62, 67, 82 MBA, 1x 52, 72, 77 MBA

  • 62 filters

  • 67 filters

  • 72 filters

  • OSMO filters

  • Rings 52-62, 62-67, 67-72,

Sound;

  • H8 field recording

  • H5 shotgun

  • F1 on camera shotgun

  • LCT 240 + wind sock

  • SSH-6 + wind

  • LCT 040 pair + wind + dual mount

  • Cables (XLR, 3.5)

  • Stand?

Vision;

  • 5” Portkeys monitor + cables

  • HDMI adapter

  • NP batts

Seperate bits (as needed)

Stabilising;

  • Tripod with video head

  • Chest/follow focus rig (S5)

  • Mini tripod legs with ball head

  • Slider

  • Boom pole (sound and OSMO)

  • seat/pad

Camo cover.

Bokeh, Fighting The Good Fight.

What is Bokeh?

Ok, thousands of hands up (generous estimation of my readership).

Bokeh to many, and this is based on the perception of current practitioners is “balls of light in the background and their shape/quality”.

Partly true.

Mike Johnston, then editior of “Camera and Creative Darkroom Techniques” who (1) wrote the first articles in the west in the subject and (2) anglicised the name*, said it is literally “the flavour of the blur”, a term used by the Japanese for a form of art technique, but can also be used to describe “fuzzy” headedness. Notice it does not say the amount of the blur, just the flavour.

In Japan this has been a constant since before their appreciation of lens characteristics, but to the Western eye and ear, it was the result of a Japanese based photographer John Kennerdell talking to Johnston about something the Japanese revered, but we had no definition for, so he dedicated an entire edition of the magazine to it.

The main thing to keep in mind is Bokeh is almost always a factor in any image, or more precisely, the transition area from in-to-out of focus, something almost all images share unless you are into shooting brick walls or glass panels.

For me it was a revelation and put a name to something most of us were responding to, we just did not have a way of quantifying it. The Schneider vs Rodenstock looks now had a defined difference. Ironically, the Japanese were often bigger fans of German lenses for that very look, selling us their own lenses, that often were not rated as well.

More recently, coincidentally about the same time as the articles, Canon as one example had started to design their new EF range with Bokeh in mind, the 35 f2, 100 macro (1st ed) and others were getting strong reputations in Japan (and were featured in the articles) and their timing was perfect.

The 35mm is interesting, because it was emulating the great German lenses of the past, concentrating on smoother transitions with a wider lens at smaller apertures and longer distances than the current trend of more blur is better.

This image has an element of Bokeh. The lens is the 45mm Olympus f1.8 at about f4 or 5.6 from memory. The clouds are rendered slightly softer than the building front, the second building also, although only very slightly. The way a lens renders both of these elements is Bokeh, just as much as a close in shot at f1.8. Not a glowing ball in sight.

The use of words in our language is ever changing, but this must be a record. The word came into limited use in the later 90’s, when it was adopted by the small group of people in the know, then the masses grabbed it, Apple among others mangled the name (creating the mongrel dog weapon, the Bow-Kerr) in a series of ads and there you have it, new meaning, new name, little accuracy to source.

I guess that is a thing now, but what about the actual phenomenon? Often a point of derision for many older photographers, it is still a real element in their work, even if the one way of describing it has been hijacked.

The damage is done and the dye cast, but I still reserve the right to push back a little, as much to retain the relevance of defining blurring quality in all its forms.

My Leica 15mm and Olympus 17 are a case in point.

They are nearly the same on paper, very different in use. The Olympus lens, designed I feel specifically for street shooters has (what I call) elongated transition or long throw Bokeh. This means that it retains cohesion in out of focus areas seemingly at odds with its math.

Even wide open with roughly the same distance from me to the first woman and then her to the next, cohesive detail is retained. The look is very old school Leica looking. You feel the woman in front is sharper, your eye is drawn to the woman behind and she seems perfectly sharp enough, then you come back tot he first woman with a “snap” of realisation that she is sharper again.

The 15mm is much more “modern” in its rendering, faster to drop away.

I am fine with soft and round highlights when there is no avoiding them, but this is not all there is to it. The IRIX macro is always going to require nice blur rendering, because being a long macro, it will see plenty.

The IRIX 150 at T3 has “feathery” Bokeh, which I feel tells a story better, even if it is a little less “perfect” to a modern viewer. Think I like the colour out of the IRIX more also.

The IRIX needs to have good Bokeh at normal distances though, because it is also a cinema lens. This is a real test of the lens, because it will determine if it has more than one use.

The Lumix-S 85mm at a wider aperture of f2 (and different framing) shows very modern “spongy” (my term) blurring and a more dramatic sharp-to-soft separation (keep in mind it is a shorter lens). To me it feels less settled, more subject oriented, but cleaner. The difference is in the flowers.

Not much to be done I guess except keep the history of the word and it’s use alive as long as possible.

Regardless, we use Bokeh daily, even with our own eyes and that will not change. How we use it is up to us and our needs and whether we call it out or just accept it is also up to us, but it is and it forever will be part of image making.

Just a last one for fun.

*Bo-ke, he added the “h” for pronunciation, but it did not work.

Wins And Missed Steps.

Lots bought lately, so how did I do and did I miss any steps?

The G9II, the original need addresser. A hard choice with S5II and S5IIx’s even cheaper, but it was the right choice. It did however sit at odds with my subsequent lens choices and last years purchase.

Of all the purchases I have made recently, this is the most easily overlooked, fitting seamlessly into a pretty well serviced landscape, but it is likely the most important long term giver, upgrading my M43 stills and my video overall.

Everything else below is really surplus to requirements, the G9II is a necessary enabler.

The handle is not the one I use now, but still a good fit, but the cage is the best I have bought so far.

Black Mamba cage and Arri top handle for the G9II. Both wins. Best fitting cage I have bought and neatest handle option. I have since added a second side handle also, making this a full cage.

The Lumix 35 and 85mm S-Primes completed my working S5 kit.

Now covering 35, 50 and 85 in the engine room for that camera in stills and video, the IRIX and kit zoom adding more range.

The Sigma equivalents have a reputation for being sharper, but the matched Lumix-S primes are beautiful, consistent and video friendly.

The 35 and 50mm 7Artisans cine lenses for under $500 and the IRIX 150 at near half price were awesome bargains. I doubt I would have dabbled if it were not for the price of these, but I am glad I have.

The IRIX 150 cine-macro was probably an odd choice, but has somehow meshed the cine and non-cine full frame kits together and I will admit up front, it is the most fun I have had in a while. My only regret is it was not available at the same price on an M43 mount so I could access the 300 fps slo-mo on the G9II with a 300mm 2:1 macro!

I would have doubted I could find a lens to match my 75 (150 equiv) Olympus, but maybe this IRIX beast is it.

The 7Artisans 12mm for M43 as a wide angle filler and M43 cine option was a miss on the whole.

Not sure what I was thinking there, but it seemed to make sense at the time and the lens itself broke my run of good lenses, being mechanically a bit “iffy”*.

Matt box filters are a revelation, Neewer ones more so, but the gong goes to the sub $40 Nisi clear filters. Instant peace of mind when using matt boxes.

Cineflare filters were a poor idea if I go into an anamorphic lens, but they make a lot of sense if not. I like the look in moderation and the flexibility of the filters, but I still have an itch for an anamorphic lens and that will come with flares always.

If I do go the 24mm, the M43 12mm and the filters above would have nearly paid for it in an M43 mount. Sometimes I avoid the thing I actually want with compensatory options that end up costing as much or more, but in this case, the Sirui was not a strong choice early on. In hindsight, it would have been the ideal M43-as-a-wide option for my cinema kit over a regular wide angle and a great all-in-one M43 cine choice. I have also bought a Sirui 24 spherical, which again would have been redundant with the anamorphic.

5.11 Range Ready bag, a huge win.

This could easily be called the “Cinematographers Ready bag”. The shape, pocket size (and their shape), comfort, build quality, price and accessories make for a one-bag utility option or multi bag expedition set. It even has 8 camera battery sized “mag” holders. Seriously well put together, it has that magic layout that so many other camera bags lack.

It is boxy, but sometimes cameras are boxy.

That’s a 480 LED panel inside. The pouch inside is removable and the insides tall enough to take a top handle mounted.

Getting a boxy video shaped bag is usually an expensive choice, but this does the same with bells-on for a quarter of the price. Want to put a camera in with cage and handle, maybe a set of matt box filters or a couple of bulky cine lenses? All good.

*A “wiggly” M43 mount (very rare) and one that catches on removal and an overly loose focus ring made the whole thing feel a bit sub-premium, something the Spectrum lenses do not feel and it actually cost the same as both of those together. A bad move after several good ones.

Quick Look At The Last Lens.

The Lumix 35mm arrived from backorder yesterday, but a busy day and lots of work lately made me a little apathetic to its arrival.

Old mate the spider web again. Bokeh in this example is decent and colour quite different to the cine lens.

Images like this remind me I am in full frame land, where f1.8 on a semi wide is shallow even over distance.

Decently sharp wide open in the centre.

Some obvious CA wide open in this torture test, but looks easy to remove.

Minimum focus is actually pretty good. This stump is bout 3” or 8cm across. Unlike the cine lenses, the Bokeh is busier, colour richer.

I shot this centred, then left and right, but hand held and only moments after mounting it on a camera for the first time.

Bokeh is a little messy, but a messy subject.

I thought I had an issue with the left side of the lens, until I realised I was at a different distance and angle.

Right side was more square on, so a more settled image.

Uses for this lens for my full frame kit are;

  • Wide angle video lens. For videography I have several very wide angle video lenses*, but for more cinematic work, this is as wide as I will likely want to go, so I have both a modern AF lens and cinema lens in this space.

  • Environmental, semi-wide portrait lens. This is the most depth of field sensitive wide angle I have. I used the S5 kit for a portrait shoot the same day the 35 later arrived and found it overkill for my needs**.

  • Walk around lens. My standard for most work, especially if matched to an 85mm. I struggle with the idea of full frame for this type of application, being so comfortable with M43, but it is there and the S primes are very light, even if they are huge compared to M43 equivalents.

  • A low light wide for stills. If I need the ultimate low light handler for stage coverage etc, this is the one, or the 35 f2 cine lens of course.

This completes my full frame offering, mostly reserved for video and portraiture or low light support for my M43 kit. It covers 20 to 150mm (225mm in Super 35 video) with the IRIX macro at one end and the decent kit zoom covering the other to a professional standard.

I almost jumped at a Sigma 24 f3.5 DN special offer, but remembered I actually have a lens (the kit zoom), that covers that focal length at the same speed and well enough for my needs, so I think I am done now. There is a 7Artisans 14mm coming (14/21mm in video), but for cinematic work I would rather an anamorphic, probably on my M43 camera.

It is handy I guess to have similar focal lengths with different perspectives and Bokeh rendering with the same logic as anamorphic compared to spherical lenses***.

I poured a decent investment into my full frame kit, something I will have to justify as time travels on, the bulk in S-Primes and the IRIX, the other cine lenses were just a bargain I could not refuse.

As I said in my previous “winding back the clock” retrospective, I could as easily have skipped this (bought a GH5II or GH6), but nothing is ever wasted and if I get one of those clients who knows enough to insist on a full frame, but not enough to know why, the S5 and G9II are effectively interchangeable to look at, so who would know?

;)


*The 20mm end of the kit zoom and a clutch of M43 offerings.

** I used the Lumix 50, 85 and 150 lenses mostly at f2.8 and 3.4 for safety and to render the right amount of blurring and realised that f1.8 on my M43 lenses would have been the same. As for quality, there was plenty, but there is with M43 also (my G9II actually offering slightly more).

Any less depth of field would obscure the portraits relevance with the deliberately placed painting for an artistically inclined subject, the image for an art competition catalogue. This was the 85mm at f3.2, my 45mm at f1.8 would have been much the same (with possibly smoother Bokeh!). Something I realised later was the 45mm at 1.8 would likely have better highlight shape than the 85 at f3.2, where the iris is slightly closed down. Need to test that.

***I could actually use a 50mm as a 50mm, a M43 25mm as a 50mm and an anamorphic 24mm as a 50/35mm for visual variety.

Who Cares?

We (I) write a lot about the technical and creative things that float our boat, drive us crazy and otherwise amuse us in our photographic and video endeavours.

Who cares?

We the invested do, a lot. We get frustrated by the short comings of camera “X”, lens “Y” or processing programme “Z”. The never ending hunt for the perfect item for our needs is well, never ending.

Who else cares?

Nobody really and if we remember that, the path to creativity is much more rewarding.

I am not saying our viewers are simple, disinterested or artistically lacking. What I am saying is the little things that we hold as important, are not important in the fleeting moment we deliver our product and that is becoming, ironically more the case as the technical limitations we have been tackling since day one are slowly disappearing.

If we release ourselves from the deep immersive self-criticism that over exposure to a process can force on us, any creative process, our appreciation falls in line with our viewer. It becomes immediate, visceral, not halting or reluctant. We are free to go “whoopee”, not “yes, but…”.

I was just watching Fargo (series 5 ep 5 to be specific). During that show, an advertisement came on. I saw onion ring Bokeh in the many Bokeh balls in the background.

I noticed it, I understood it, but I did to care, because I realised that I only saw it because I was looking for it!

I realised that what may be described as “to your taste” when reviewing or criticising actually meant to the vast majority “as it is”.

Sure, there are things that do make a difference, like the transition of focus and judder or poor colour grading, but these have to be actually noticeably bad before they begin to matter and even then do they? Most viewers may sense something is amiss, then move on or just as often assume it was meant and “above their pay grade”.

Where is you eye drawn? Is it to the subject, what they are doing or is it to the many technical deficiencies this image has. It is a screen grab off ungraded 2mp video footage. Do you find the Bokeh pleasing or offensive, the colour strong or muted and the sharpness up to snuff or not? More realistically, did you only look at these things and in the context of an assumed to be deficient file, because I prompted you to look?

Sharp corners are an example of futile perfectionism. Only the initiated, the obsessed will even look there. It is actually really hard to get people to look at the corners of your image unless you compose them that way.

Quick and honest look at this file, what is the first, then second thing you see? For me it is the man then the red bag or the fire. Then look at the image at the bottom of the post.

Honestly, when was the last time you studied the far corners of an image except for when a lens test or critical examination was involved and when you saw what you saw, were you sure why you saw it? Maybe it was just out of focus, or there was some field curvature, aberrations, or poor design?

Perfection can be the reason for an image, but if not, it is rarely that important.

Sharp and clear edge to edge and for three layers deep, this is as good as anything needs to be, but lacking a central subject or any subject at all really, its perfection is its reason for being. Even then is anyone actually measuring that perfection, or just acceptation it.

The most creative of us are likely the most focussed. They are not focussed on the little things that keep us awake at night. They are focussed on the meaning, the connection and central subject. The rest is clutter that often needs to be removed, ignored or excluded, not obsessed over.

No ball, poorly framed, forced into mono to hide some glare and strong colour shifts, this image still works for me, because the subjects are compelling and even the third figure adds context.

The more I shoot the more I realise that the people we shoot for are less concerned about any technical element we fixate on and wholely concerned with the meaning and context of the image.

That does not mean the effort we go to is lost on them, it is just assumed or invisible unless it is made visible by being flawed or poorly applied.

We must always try hard to do our best, because when we do, we always reach a point of sufficiency with extra “credit” in the bank for our less than perfect efforts.

Did you notice this clanger bottom right? Caused by an unfortunate combination of out of depth of field bright glare, it looks pretty awful, but I did not even notice it until I went looking.

The Debt.

If you are a healthy, financially moderately comfortable white male of a certain age living in a first world country, the chances are you have had a decent run at things.

If so, spare a thought for everyone else who is not any one or possibly even all of those things.

Something that strikes me as I spend more and more of my time around people who have to accept any form of struggle into their lives on a daily basis, is how happy they are.

A coming together of unlikely connections. The young lady from Vanuatu is effectively in exile, sent away to work and send money home to her family. The boy spends most of his time looking at the sky, with his carer and faithful Retriever as his only companions. His new friend spent the better part of the day dancing and singing with him. She was invited by the Migrant Resource Centre to share their harmony day celebrations, he was a neighbour, attracted by the event and welcomed immediately.

Adversity is life, but how much adversity and how you cope with it is your life is the measure of a person.

My wife and I live on this planet in a modest way. I drive a small, economical car, live in a modest home, don’t exceed the needs of a moderate lifestyle and hope I am not greedy or lustful of things that when taking them is hurtful to others.

She is a teacher, I am a photographer with many avenues of sharing. We have no children, but children are a big part of our lives.

I have a debt to pay, one that I have to remind myself of constantly. I have not lived through a major war, been threatened by my neighbours, my government, or people different to me and I have never been in any real risk of hunger or sleeping rough.

I give up some of my time to help enable others with the one skill set I have, photo/video. It is not much, but it is something and I do it happily. I am aware that it is a shiny veneer on the massive untold, unpaid and often unthanked work others do, but if it can make them happier and help tell their stories, that need to be told, then I am happy to do it. Sometimes it just a chance to connect.

I am also aware I am a coward, hiding in my comfort zone behind my gear and processes, but I also hope that through this one avenue, I will grow into a better person and be able to give of myself in more depth.

So many stories.

Today I will take some images of people living closer to the edge, with their loved pets and those they rely on, but I will only pretend to know what they go through, sometimes just to get to the event in the first place.

I have a debt.

It may never be paid.

I will try.

The Economics Of Madness

I have spent a lot on camera gear over the last few years, well according to my accountant.

From my perspective, however deluded and obsessed I may be, I have spent relatively little for what I have accumulated, but in what amounts and where is the money funnelled is interesting.

All values are in Australian dollars.

Cameras.

Many brands and more individual bodies over several generations, but I have been quite settled over the last decade and to my surprise, this generation I have actually worn out some cameras.

M43 cameras on the whole are well priced for what they are. In total over the last 11 years, I have spent probably $20,000. A lot is may seem, but this is 4x EM5’s, 2x EM10’s, a couple of Pen/Pen mini’s, a GH2, a Pen F, 2x G9’s, a G9II, 2x EM1x’s (1 mint second hand), 2x EM1 Mk2’s.

Most that I have still work, the older EM5’s it seems pack it in if you don’t use them, but they likely accounted for something like 1,000,000 shutter fires all up, so retirement earned. The remaining have a couple of million to go (one EM1x, G9 mkI and the Pen F are basically unused and the G9II is new).

This is similar to the value if a pair of full frame pro cameras, but with more depth and variety plus the ability to evolve. I would change little except that three years ago, if I had waited just a little, I could have had an EM1x on special for the price I paid for an EM1 Mk2 and if I chose the GH5II over the S5, life may have been easier this year.

Overall, my adoption of M43 has been a decisive win.

Other cameras at the moment are specialist and video centric. The S5 full frame is a good “other” camera, which led to a small system, but none will be wasted.

Lenses.

Vast forest of glass, some good, some mediocre not much that is poor.

In M43, I have had a lot of glass go through, but most of the better stuff has stayed for my current format, with only a few missed steps and little “shedding” (a sold 12-100 pro, 20mm Pana first ed stand out). I currently have 9 zooms, 10 primes, a cine lens and some legacy glass.

I have paid about $12,000au or so over the years, some of which from the “inside” working in shops, which currently includes full coverage from 16 to 600mm (F/F equiv), many weather proof, all sharp and many fast for their type, especially compared to full frame versions and some “character” options, most with redundancies.

All have a role either in stills, video or both.

Don’t even do the math on full frame equivalents, it’s eye watering. My whole arsenal would be swallowed in size, weight and cost by a 600 f4 alone. The only change I would make would be to have kept everything I ever bought in M43.

In full frame, I have 3 Lumix primes, a decent kit lens (20-127 in 4k), 2 legacy lenses and 3 cinema lenses 9one a serious macro lens), all for a little over $4,000. A total bargain and sound investment for the future. If I spend any more here though, bargains aside, it will start to be a pointless and diminishing exercise.

Mixing formats is usually pointless, but in this case I am happy.

Bags.

Never enough, never the right one.

No good news here, but fun none the less. Enough spent probably to cover a couple of camera bodies, but right now, I seem settled.

Domke bags have generally been good investments and the only regrets I have had are for those I sold off. The price of Domke bags has been steady over the years (see below), unlike some brands that lately seem to have taken on jewel-like preciousness. Even the F804, my worst recent gaff, is a very handy overnight bag with camera options.

Filson and Billingham are passion choices, rarely practical and both have over the last few years gone well out of sensible reach at $500+ for a Filson medium Field Bag and $650 for a Hadley medium! I paid about $250 for each of mine and thought that was a little rich.

Most other brands have been tried, Crumpler and Mind Shift/Think Tank standing out. These are either used or disposed of and replaced, in staggering numbers. Working in shops is hard, because the mark-up on bags is actually decent, meaning you buy cheap, sell for what you paid and can try them out (but still stuff up).

Standouts tend to be surprisingly useful and often better priced non-camera bags like the 511 Range Ready bag ($150), the Tokyo Porter satchel and a no-name little pouch from a vendor in Kobe etc.

Currently my collection would likely come is at about $2,000, but that is grossly over valued by the current prices and my oldest is an F2 Domke that I paid the same for in the 1980’s that they go for now.

No right answer here. You never know until you buy, then find use for the duds anyway, so dollar to dollar never a wise investment, but hard to waste money entirely.

Lighting gear.

Lighting has been a giver. My cheap as chips flash units have handled so many gigs, they are now well in the black, the LED panels are probably about even and the COB light’s although under used owe me little.

Very simple single speed light and cheap mod combination.

Lighting is a funny thing, a bit like owning a Tux. If you have it, you look for reasons to use it, if not you get by. In my case I bought a cheap suit and try to carry it off with some bluff and experience. My total costs for 4x Selens COB’s, 5x Neewer LED’s, 8x Flash units (YongNuo and Godox) is about $1500, or to put another way, a single Aperture 600D. My only real need is for a portable battery unit to make the entire thing portable.

Next time I would stick to one flash brand, stick to probably 1 TTL and 3 “dumb” units total and just get two decent LED’s as alternates.

Lighting mods.

This one is embarrassing. I have a dozen soft boxes, several brollies, a few reflectors, some domes, scrim and flagging, but tend to use a pair of Godox 42” brollies I bought right at the very beginning in desperation. Total cost, relying on the cheaper brands and careful research is under $1000, but could have been under $100!

If I did it again, four white brollies with removable backing and a large reflector.

Backgrounds.

This is an odd one. Obsessed with these things for a while, I eventually sprang for a Manfrotto 2.1x2.4 collapsible on grey/black. Rory Lewis would have been proud.

It paid for itself with the Telstra shoot, but I scratched an itch for the Pewter/Walnut as well. This one has only been used a couple of times, but I love it, especially the subtle texture of the Pewter.

Just the right amount of gentle texture and very pure colour.

They need more use. Other efforts include some 1.4m width leather-look vinyl, which on the whole are a success and cloth of several types.

Another handy item is the 2"‘ square slate-look vinyl tiles I use a lot (see the mic shot below). Go anywhere kitchen bench.

$1000 all up, the $650 of that in the 2 Lastolite-Manfrotto units.

If going again I would get e huge grey cloth one, the Pewter Manfrotto and a cheap black/white.

Sound gear.

Boy did this one get out of hand.

My goal, something outside of the usual videographers remit, was to be able to cover a school rock band or orchestra. The usual ways of doing this are a shotgun mic on camera or synching a separate sound source. Neither of these appealed (although I can do them), because I wanted better sound into camera and full control.

This required me looking at the problem more from a sound engineers perspective. I wanted to be able to either mic up one or more instruments or people directly, or cover a room. I can do either in multiple ways.

Interfaces, the bit in between have been mostly good and the usual one to the next to the next growth. The Zoom system works for me on the whole, but the H1n, is now mostly surplus and the F1 with an all too easily broken battery door (which is a common thing apparently), is a disappointment. I like the F1 and use it constantly, but it annoys me it broke so predictably. $1500 spend on 4 units, 3 capsules and a LAV and all are useful. I can take up to 8 XLR mics.

If I went again, just the H8 or an F6, with the capsules and an F3 with separate shotgun mics for run-n-gun (MKE-600/400).

Microphones are a hobby with its own motivation it seems. One thing I can say for it though, is you can get some great gear for little outlay, you just have to find a way to use it.

Apart from the MKE-400, several little shotguns and the zoom capsules (about $300 total), I seem to be the video guy with a studio in his bag. 6x Lewitt’s, 3x sE V series and a Pro-Lanen mic came in at about $1500 total, which on balance is a decent collection, but for what? Not sure.

The Hollyland Larks are a decent LAV solution, but not my preferred idea.

The MKE-400 was a great investment, see below for the rest.

I want to use it all, but have little opportunity. Some field recording, maybe some drop in video, voice overs, ambient sound, even a poor band with need of a cheap demo recording?

Either my secret super power or a waste in the whole. All comes doen to me I guess, but one advantage of sound gear is, it does not evolve super quickly. The mics most of these are competing with are 50 year old Shure SM 57/58’s, so not a use it or loose it proposition.

“I will have two flat ones, two small ones and a packet of gravel”.

If I went again, the Lewitts would be enough (2x 040 pencils, 2x 240 room/vocal condensers and 2x 440 DM bass/instrument mics), but the sE V’s and TT1 are handy for a panel situation.

Overall, nothing much wasted and if so, not a fortune. I can see how easy it is to spend vast sums in areas that need little, but the advatage of being broke most of the time has taught me to look for the things that have fallen through the cracks or secrets well kept.

The Sweet Spot Part 1

My sweet spot for high performance lenses seems to be in the portrait range.

What is a portrait lens?

Generally a lens in the full frame range of a full frame 50 to 135mm is the range, but longer and occasionally shorter lenses get a gong.

They should be sharp, but not harsh, fast aperture, with “nice” contrast and Bokeh.

All lenses will be noted with their actual focal length, conversions are assumed by format.

The most common of specialist lenses, the humble portrait lens, which means different things to different people, has been a haven of optical perfection, character or occasionally both. They start at the humble 50mm and can go as high as true telephoto lenses.

Macro lenses also fall into this group and often they make excellent if unforgiving portrait lenses.

The great irony of this dynamic is that portrait lenses are easy to make well, even near clinical perfection, but the subject is often the least responsive to “technical” perfection.

I remember years ago being lustful of the best, sharpest, most aberration controlled lenses, then I learned that many portraitists actually preferred less perfect glass. They were looking for a flattering character, a forgiving nature and that “special something”.

Examples I recall were many Mamiya 6x7 lenses, a Bronica 75mm I once owned and even the Rodenstock enlarger lenses for reproduction, that were less “hard” sharp than Schneider’s offerings.

First up, my M43 format lenses (double these for full frame equivalents)

Sigma 30 f1.4.

This lens is sharp, very sharp. I appreciate it’s clarity and reliable edge to edge performance, but I am unsure about colour or contrast in some situations. AF is also a mixed bag on the Panasonic cameras, something I have to consider, because I often prefer Panasonic colours for skin tones in many situations. For a while I was interested by the 56 f1.4, but I will hold off for a while.

Olympus 45mm f1.8 (x3).

Yep I have had three of these, down to two now. Half of my basic travel and street kit (17+45), I love these, really appreciate their quality and character and feel good having one in my bag, which being tiny, they do effortlessly. I don’t use them as often as I would like, something I am trying to address. Even when half of the 2+2 kit, it takes the lesser load.

A very good lens for candids, the 45 adds some “pop” to any image.

My quiet interview portraits are the main application of this lens.

I love its gentle nature. The 75 is punchier, more dramatic, the 30mm more surgical, the 45 is the most “invisible”. I usually shoot wide open, which is about f2.8 on a full frame.

Lovely, reliable, inconspicuous Bokeh front and rear. The 17mm it is often paired with has more elongated, coherent Bokeh, so the difference is appreciated.

Even when you grab a close plane of focus, there are story telling powers available.

The 45mm has a more 3D look than the more compressed 75 and a little more “grit” and this is not just down to the difference in focal length.

This is also a very comfortable length to use in a studio situation.

75mm F1.8 Olympus.

The 75mm Olympus is the lens I most rely on for premium, clean, powerful results, especially candids and event work. The long focal length (150mm in full frame) stretches things in some locations, but if I have room, it delivers and if I need reach, it is a life saver.

The extra working distance is useful.

Through two panels of sun drenched glass, it has taken on a softer palette, but is still crisp.

The ability to sit aside from events, but still reach in with a light beater is a powerful tool.

This lens is so reliable to me, I chose it and a camera I had never used before for this shoot of the board of Telstra Australia.

12-40 f2.8 Pro Olympus.

The work horse lens, this one gets used way more than I probably intend, but when I just need to know I am covered and the quality will be good, this one is used, “sticky” zoom and all.

I lobe this lens for controlled light situations where light angle and intensity will control depth as much as aperture.

The 40-150 f2.8 Olympus.

This one his the ultimate generalist, but no less powerful as a specialist portrait lens.

Dragged out of my sports kit for special occasions (this is our Prime Minister).

Not people, but you see what I mean.

Next I will look at my full frame options, but I need to use them a little first.