Relevance And Repetition (or It's Not The Camera Folks)

Cruising the internet for one of those elusive answers (video frame rates- mixing different rates with input/processing/output can be confusing), I came across a sample gallery for a new camera (Canon R something, which as you will see below, I find mostly irrelevant).

Boy, do we delude ourselves into thinking this stuff matters.

If a top photographer shoots anything, they will do a good job. I have seen amazing sample images taken on manual focus film cameras in the 80’s that look hauntingly similar to the samples offered from the latest super cams. This will make the cam look like the next big thing, but has that photographer never shot anything that good before?*

If an amateur or someone not trying that hard takes a bunch of images, if they are a poor or worse, irrelevant for what they are trying to do, they will be mediocre or misleading.

This is because, apart from extremes in ISO performance and decade long generational differences in AF performance, basically the camera does not matter.

If a 2000’s Canon 10D is compared to a 2020’s Z9 for AF, ISO and resolution differences, there will be a noticeable difference, but we are talking abut cameras 20 years apart, one coming from the first generation of usable digital cameras, the other a camera we could not have even wished for back then.

Comparing two images taken by skilled users and printed to a realistic size (12x16”, there may be little real difference. Most images are judged by normal viewers using non technical parameters.

Oddly, the “limelight” period for new gear is getting shorter and shorter, but the actual shortcomings of new cameras are becoming fewer and less relevant. Personally I mix old EM10.2’s in with EM1x’s, G9.2’s and others with little thought as long as each cam does the job it is delegated.

I have coincidentally also seen a few “nothing is changing” videos regarding camera tech and its seeming lack of advancement, Canon, Sony and Nikon copping the biggest slams.

Coincidence, or the new normal?

This is for three main reasons.

The industry is slowing and shrinking, becoming much more like it used to be in the 1980’s, a more them-and-us dynamic of real cameras being sold to professionals for the few reasons they need them and “compact” cams (now phones), being used by the rest. Even back in the day, we knew that our top of the line EOS # was overkill for many shoots, a decent compact doing a good enough job. The difference was the person, their skills and motivations.

Around 2005, everyone wanted a DSLR. This was the second big blip in SLR history, the first being the first “automatic” camera, the AE-1. I know because I was selling them, thousands of dollars worth a day. That is no longer the case. The improvement of phones, their ease, the shift to mirrorless, the similar shift to video have all diluted the pool and distanced “real” cameras from the average buyer. They are now a specialist tool again, as they always were, but more so.

*

Secondly the tension between protecting the top tier of gear while selling enough of the good stuff to the average buyer is becoming harder to do and to justify. That buyer wants more, is better educated and more curious, but they also want it for less. This is something Canon and Sony in particular have been known for, sometimes to their peril.

Why give up everything the $20k plus broadcast camera offers in a $5k hybrid, just because that is what we, the customers want?

The consumer grade FX3 could film “The Creator”, so why buy more? Soon after the S5IIx comes out at half the price matching or exceeding many of the FX3’s features, so could a Hollywood block buster have been shot with an even cheaper cam and so on?

*

Lastly, the cams we have are getting so close to perfect, that the amount of R&D required to gain even a 1% improvement (that we hardly notice, so we then whinge about) would have once doubled performance, because there was much more to improve and it was probably relatively easier to do.

Each generation could add sensor cleaning, stabilising, add 50% to pixel counts, face detection AF, stacking, mic or headphone ports, vastly improve video features etc. Once most of those have been accounted for, what next?

For many brands, repackaging the same tech in different forms is easier and actually makes sense some time, such as splitting a stills hybrid from a video hybrid with just a couple of top end features reserved for each to make sense of it.

Many of these improvements come incrementally in firmware updates anyway, so the actual camera we buy is really only the foundation of the future camera to be and the real limitations of it’s hardware are often a long way in the future.

In my world the G9 Mk1’s 2.0 firmware update released a beast of a video hybrid rather than just a stills cam that could shoot decent video, which enabled me to actually give it a go and that was a huge shift. Long after the cam seemed to hit its tech wall, the inbuilt processor showed it had more to give.

The original Canon R, Fuji X100 and X Pro mk1’s, Z6/8 Mk1’s, even the Magic Lantern 50D hack that revealed real video buried inside a non-hybrid camera, and many more showed us there is often more to be found with a little patience or curiosity.

So, back to the relevance of sample galleries? They are something to fill reviews and pages, very occasionally show the use of a very real feature and if used specifically to compare image “A” to image “B”, then I guess they can be handy, but otherwise, what are you seeing? A bunch of images of flowers or a reviews family with little context or point.

*95% of my entire photographic life was shot with less than 20mp, 50% on film, yet many of my favourite images are older, even dating back to last century.

Video Breakthrough, Video Setback

Possibly too late to matter, but I have finally started doing video projects for both schools.

One had a set of interviews for a giving day launch and one is hosting the Relic of the blessed Carlo Acutis exhibition, soon to be sainted.

The first job could not have been easier.

My brief was simple and to the point, all direction left to me and I had a decent amount of time (about an hour). Gear was minimal as I knew the location was capable of producing good light, asa long as I had some freedom to setup.

I asked one principal to talk to me for a minute or two, using interview style and it went perfectly. I expecting to have to interview two, but after a simple prompt question, he gave me almost two minutes of unbroken and on point audio, then some stills and b-roll and I was done. I did nothing to the base clip apart from some light grading, then added some other elements and all was done in twenty minutes.

ed. turns out this has gone right to the head of Catholic Education thinking in the state.

Interview style which puts most subjects at ease, was a good lesson I learned from the paper. S5II, 35mm Lumix with APS-C crop (tend to crop this lens rather than change to my 50 to keep colour identical, the 50/75 is used for more controlled interviews), 1080/422/10 bit/Flat with the MKE-600 low in front into a Zoom H5.

After a frustratingly long Dropbox upload, then a spelling mistake fixed and a re-load, it was done same day. Uploading took longer than total production.

I find stills, the thing I have the most experience in, come easily as video fillers and are a perfect in this context.

The other job, in stark contrast was a multi person, multi location, multi day, stylistically mixed and very last minute moveable feast. It was a good example of being overthought, over controlled and then, with rigid time constraints, under produced. I feel a minute of planning is work three in the field.

Some great footage thanks to solid people and lucky locations, but very mixed and some clangers unfortunately. Control in video production is paramount, something I had very little of. The original concept was to show this subject with the flags and mural the space is known for (high above left in the shot), but the realities of lens science and geometry won and the shoot through teleprompter requires a certain dynamic. The compromise was a walk through wide shot, when we could have used a low pan around the subject (the "Michael Bey") to a smooth head turn to camera and had both.

The one big take away from it was the use of “walk and talks”, which something I feel are used simply because gimbals allow them (basically vlogging backwards), not because they are actually any good.

Professional talent and crews can pull them off, but rarely do anyway, amateurs have little chance but try more often. I was even shown a sample and it was wooden and fragile at best.

They were the two shoots that took ages and in one case had 14 takes with the poorest results of the day! The kids had no rehearsal time, they were not practiced at it, neither was I and the whole thing became just a mess of semi-useful bits, which looked stilted and amateurish.

Unfortunately in both cases they were the first shoots, so held up all the rest.

The students were given the small but wordy script on the same day, the day they were also in house debating comps, so brains were full I am sure, then they were asked to walk in pairs, often after meeting for the first time (older and younger campus students) at a measured pace, while interweaving their presentation.

To my mind, if the movement is to include both camera and subject, it needs to be non-distracting or the message is lost. In a nutshell, only action movies or art films can get away with the camera being busier than the subject. A movement owning the shot is counterproductive.

Creative interaction was three degrees away, time was limited in the extreme, so we made the most of what we had, but it could have been better with some creative license.

I must admit, the whole thing got me a little “gimbal jittery”, but I have worked through that.

What if.....?

What if you needed to take stock, to account for your work to this point and decide within yourself if you are proud to call it quits now and leave what ever legacy you have?

This can come to us all and I am writing this probably precipitously as I am expecting some bad medical news and it has given me pause to look at my past and my situation now.

Being reminded that some people can smile and share even when they don’t have much themselves, humbles me.

My best moves were to go to a school from retail five years ago. Luck played a huge part, so I feel it was meant to be, then ironically the move to the paper gave me a lot of contacts and broadened my perspective and skill set, but I am very glad I then came back to the schools again.

Love and community can take any form, but the results are the same.

My legacy, if that matters will be the effect I have had on the people at the Migrant Resource Centre (now Welcome Disability), New Horizons Tas, Scotch Oakburn College, St Patricks College and Neighbourhood House Ravenswood.

These are things that matter to me, because they matter to others.

That then, is all that matters.

Getting My Video Act Together

My video act is coming together.

This comes on the heels of a horror week, something that forced me to look hard at options.

My profile of choice is Flat, with idynamic on Standard. Flat gives me Cine-D/V-Log lite-ish contrast and range, with iD to hold shadow detail. I can expose well into highlight territory, just within the wave form/histogram maximums, with tons of shadow detail.

S5II, 35mm Lumix-S (APS-C crop), f4 1080p 10bit/422 Flat profile, idynamic standard, exposure pushed to the right.

A very mild grade……..basically reduced Lift slider to add some contrast and depth. That is all. I usually work right to left with this system. Push gain for desired brilliance, then Gamma for shadow detail, finally Lift is usually backed off to add depth and contrast.

Crisp (without an optional 1/8 mist), warm, smooth and brilliant.

I have felt often that my grading was a matter of salvaging files, only hitting on a satisfying look with a reasonably fragile Standard profile on the G9 Mk1. I found Natural to be too muddy and white balance twitchy, so in desperation one day I tried Standard, untouched and hit gold.

With the G9II and both S5’s, adopting V-Log was assumed I guess, because it was one of the upgrades I gained with these cams, but I just did not need the processing headaches. Just shoot, process to a decent, reliable and tolerant “normal” and move on.

My processing is now exciting, easy and forgiving.

But there is more.

A little teal/amber semi polaroid easily enough done.

… and some cool-smooth.

Flat seems neutral, with a little Magenta kick, but responds well to most recoveries, be they colour balance, or exposure.

My aperture of choice for full frame is f4 which gives me a safe amount of depth, some context and a very well behaved lens. This correlates to f2.8, the Super-35 standard or f2 for M43.

Video is humming at the moment.

Not wanting to jinx it, but it seems like I have found a workable “enough”.

Henry The Explorer.

This is an old post I found when cleaning up.

Always looking at something. Older brother Rolly in the background sometimes struggles with Henry, but he is there always, something "head in the clouds" Henry will need.

The second youngest of our nephews is Henry. An odd place to start when introducing the kids, but I guess I have a soft spot for his place in the family, which most agree is closest to my own.

Aquaman in waiting?

Henry is the sensitive explorer. He is very sensitive at the moment, a phase he will likely out grow, but it has to be taken in context as well.

Younger brother Finn is also a very different creature, probably a future enabler for Henry's plans. Not his strength planning.

You see, henry does not cry about the bug crawling on him, nor even the one biting him. Henry gets upset about the ones he missed.

The personification of FOMO when dealing with the natural world, Henry will often be found wandering away from the group, even a group discovering a giant wooden Troll, to see what may be under a rock or in a pond.

You can rest assured that when he asks “can I tell you something”, two things will happen. Firstly, he will tell you anyway and secondly, the pearl of knowledge he is sharing is likely well beyond his years.

Second only to his love of nature which includes very extinct nature, Dinosaurs, is his Lego making.

Notice though, nature is also in the Lego world.

Most of his Lego builds tend to play to theme, coming in the form of submarines or aircraft, often with an exploration and animal theme, except when Harry Potter looms.

Even lunch does not get in the way.

It's All Only Possible Because Of A Choice Made A While Back.

About fifteen years ago, I made a choice that effectively decided my future pathways.

I was a Canon user, since the F1 (old), F1n, T90, into autofocus EOS 50’s, 5’s, several others, then into digital via the 10D, 50D, 5DII/III, 1DsII’s and again many others (I liked the 100 series for their weight). In that time a few other brands were around, but nothing stuck.

One brand though, did leave a residue, a feeling of unfinished business.

During the manual focus period “OM” cameras were a minefield of sometimes dodgy electronics, clever design and innovation and often quirkiness, but the lenses were astounding, ground breaking.

Before sensor size could change lens design expectations, they made a superior 250 f2, 350 f2.8, tiny 50 and 90 f2 macros, several very special wide angles and more. I had the 90 macro, 28 f2, 35 f2, 180 f2.8, 21 f3.5 and 35-70 f3.4. All excellent, some beyond that.

I was sharing my camera space, with an ever changing Canon kit, but for me, there was something other worldly about this gear. Often called the “Japanese Leica”, Olympus was one of those off-beat brands, bent on doing things their way.

When they finally joined the digital and AF world with the Four Thirds consortium, again their lens making chops were front and centre. More impossible lenses, now helped by the format, a format in part chosen to aid with lens design.

A 35-100 f2 (ff 200 f2!), 90-300 f2.8 (ff 600mm 2.8!) and more, they just kept upping the stakes, resolving far more detail than their 10mp sensor had a hope of rendering. Some are so good, only latest model high-res mirrorless cams can push them.

Smaller does not mean less capable.

Four Thirds was short lived when Olympus again became an early pioneer of the mirrorless movement.

We need to look at this early landscape now.

The EM5 Mk1 was released along with the later NEX Sony (few lenses, odd cameras) and early Fuji models (lousy AF) and their video-centric Panasonic stablemates as competition, so if like me you wanted to make a shift away from DSLR’s and embrace the new way (maybe a little early), Oly was really the only option, even if it also lacked tracking focus*.

Reach, sharpness, more depth of field to allow story telling at a price a serious amateur could afford.

You would not switch if long lenses and AF tracking speed mattered to you, but otherwise, small, sharp, high performance gear with real time viewing was a reality.

They were picked up by users that they fit, travel, journalism and street shooters.

I bought my first EM5 Mk1 the same weekend I bought a 5DIII, then bought the Canon back after a weekend of comparison and got another EM5. Some said I was mad, some said I would regret it, some of those same people followed me later.

Travel, including 8 trips to Japan have all been far more comfortable with smaller, smarter gear.

I had lenses already, as the Pana/Oly pairing, unlike the other brands in early mirrorless, actually prioritised lenses. This was a lesson Sony took too long to learn.

Things came together fully with the release of the EM1 then EM1 MkII, the latter cameras that gave me SLR-like AF performance, actually allowing me to finally trust AF. Then came the EM1x (the “double EM1.2”), 300, 40-150 and Pana 8-18, all bought with a small bequeathment (a well timed silver lining I guess) rounded out the kit to fully “pro” level.

Some shots were only possible because I could react quickly with lighter gear. Most of the other togs were grounded to a chair with a monster telephoto, their second camera and lens at their feet, reserved for half time to end of game. I could switch between my 300 f2.8 and 600 f4 (ff equivalents) in the blink of an eye and walk around the ground as I shot. This image was taken at the end I just left as I chased a penalty box shot down the other end. I still had a third cam with a standard lens in a small bag at my hip.

When I joined the paper, I went the same again, but even lighter, but that is another story.

Why is this format so important?

Quite simply, because it enabled me to be the photographer I needed to be at a cost I could afford.

As it turned out, my pragmatic choice may also have been a smart creative choice.

A bit like where I come from, a small place with tons of power.

Getting started can be tough, especially when the cost of gear may very well exceed your first year of earnings. I cover a lot of different disciplines at schools and the paper, so across the board specialisation was needed, no excuses, no second chances.

Long and fast, short and super fast, zooms, primes, super wide angles, multiple cameras, lights, stability, processing and computer power, all cost money, but sometimes less than others.

Being lite and portable enough to insinuate yourself into most situations with good, but ignorable gear.

True specialists tend to have it easier, only needing to buy select gear, but for me I can have a single day with studio lighting, some video, low light drama, long fast sport, landscape and general journalistic needs.

If I were to go pro with most brands, the assumption at the time would have been to get a top end APS-C minimum or more likely full frame, with APS-C as a backup. The 5DIII/IV, 7DII, or D500 and D750 were all good options, but the lenses, especially the top end telephoto and wide angle lenses would quickly push the entry point into a prohibitive space for me.

A really big advantage to this dynamic is handling weather. I can move to keep warm, avoid the rain and chase shade. This (badly timed watering) actually happened at the above soccer match. One of the togs had to juggle a tethered laptop, 500 f4, two cams and a seat. I was in a position to help him after tucking my own gear under my coat. I realised at the time also, I could have used a tethered phone with my Oly.

The main consideration here is no major brand offered a truly professional APS-C offer. You had to buy full frame even if you did not intend to use it all. Olympus and Panasonic put their best foot forward in M43, so you got 100% of their attention and value.

Lets look at a shopping list dated about 5 years ago when I made my last big commitment, that carried me through to now and beyond.

Canon option;

  • 5DIV

  • 7DII

  • 16-35 f2.8

  • 70-200 f2.8

  • 50 macro

  • 85 f1.8

  • 300 f2.8 (= 480 on the 7D)

  • 1.4 and 2x teleconverter

Cost is in the +30K vicinity, weight also in a bad place. I had most of this minus the 300mm, then tended to replace most of the zoom lenses with small(ish) primes anyway.

Olympus/Pana option;

  • EM1x

  • G9

  • 8-18 (16-35)

  • 17

  • 45

  • 75 (= 150 f1.8)

  • 40-150 f2.8 (= 300 f2.8)

  • 300 f4 (= 600mm)

About 12k, all can be carried at once, but no real need to.

Having the ability to roll out a decent 300 f4 at short notice was a real bonus. However with the paper I often found myself in a genuine sport shooting situation during the week, so I got by with just my everyday bag kit, the 40-150 f4 for above.

The same thing is true for lighting.

The M43 advantage in depth of field at play here also. For both still and video lighting, I only need to light for f1.8-2.8, as the extra depth M43 gives me (f2.8-5.6 equivalent) is plenty.

Beautiful warm bounce from a decently high ceiling, time after time.

I can buy a standard flash rather than a heavier strobe like a Godox AD200, then the AD200 instead of a mono block and get exceptional battery life out of each. A single Godox 860 can supply several thousand blips a night on one rechargeable batt, because I can comfortably use ISO 800 at f1.8-2 at about 1/8th power for socials and small groups, even if bouncing the flash.

Smaller lighter gear also means carrying more at the ready.

The ability to jump from the kicker with a 600mm, to the mark of the same kick with an 80mm right in front of me is something I take for granted.

The trade off?

M43 has always been considered to be inferior at handling high ISO noise, something that sensor size will always effect, so it stands to reason, but how much?

In my experience and this goes back to my early choices and even now, the ISO performance when balanced with the depth of field, stabilising/motion blur and magnification bonus of M43**, used with better than run of the mill processing (i.e. not Adobe), is in real terms negligible.

Zero light, no room, little to work with, the 9mm f1.7, wide open using the depth of field advantage of M43 allowed this image while leaning over a bit of the machine.

M43 cannot render shallow depth of field.

Yes and no. The same lens on any format renders the same DOF all else being equal (distance to subject, aperture), but the magnification increases on smaller formats, pushing you back and reducing the perceived shallowness.

This is not really a bad thing, it is just something you need to be aware of. I can use lenses wide open more often than not, I get more depth for story telling, I can get shallow depth when needed and adding blur is more realistic than adding sharpness to an unsharp area.

I guess the question is, how shallow is shallow enough?

Other features pioneered by the M43 consortium like hand held high resolution, focus stacking and post capture are fully developed in the later models, but have been available for over half a decade already, meaning the format can actually be the smarter choice, not just the small option in many fields.

Have I even been let down by M43?

In the early days, the AF tracking thing meant I had to fall back on some older techniques, although I found the AF so quick it could still do sport, it just needed timing and some faith.

The low light thing was a more of an issue until I switched to Capture 1 and then added ON1 No Noise to the family. I now treat ISO 6400 as a normal ISO (usually no added processing) and 12,800 as a more than useable one for what I would call, “printable quality”, and that is with older M43 cameras (The EM1x is now three generations old).

A pre-dawn service, lit only by a few weak red spot lights and the odd mobile phone. I got these images and thought little of it. They were called out as “better zero light images than most other ACM togs managed that day” by our national digital editor and they were using full frames as a rule. I also shot silently, something the occasion demanded, but the tog next to me, while complaining about the light, only contributed the odd “clack, clack, clack.

Taking into consideration I can field 150 f1.8, 300 f2.8 and 600 f4 full frame equivalents from my shoulder bag, I am ahead of similarly funded full frame shooters with second tier lenses or I am running at about 20% of the cost of the top tier full frame shooters (also often sitting next to me).

I have handled winter night soccer and football on crappy, poorly lit ovals, the same at national level (with sliiightly better light), indoor sports with “gloomy” light at best, then nationals, drama on busy stages and for these I actually see the format as my secret weapons.

This file was cropped to about half for the paper.

But this is possible and processed before the latest C1 and ON1 updates.

I have more reach and speed and still enough quality to crop heavily.

A 150mm f1.8 for your full frame? Good luck there. I do have full frame again now, but stopped using it for stills when a saw no real benefit.

Down to the stitching on the ball or name on the helmet resolution.

When I started at the paper, they gave me the option of full frame (D750 and 400 f2.8), but I took one look and thought, “if I can get away with my gear, my back will love me”. Who was to know that after a few tests, I found I was actually getting better results and more importantly, shooting faster, more fluidly and using different angles.

Not for me the “concrete feet” of full frame land. Light, nimble and adaptable.

ISO 12,800 with a little room to crop and cleanly brighten up? No problem. To say this was shot in gloomy conditions would be kind. The ground was gloomy in the “hot spots”, almost un-lit in the darker pockets (see the fence line) and this shot above was about half and half.

Overall quality?

I had the chance to use the Z9 with latest gen pro Nikon SLR lenses*** and regulalry compare my work with the three other togs using the same. The sports dept at the paper actually requested me if available for indoor Netball and Basketball, because my images were in their words “brighter” than the others, better for news paper reproduction.

Smooth sharp and from a fair way away (off-court opposite end) in a venue notorious for its mirky light. Nobody ever accused me of having technically inferior image, the opposite in fact.

Sure the newer Nikon glass mated to a Z9 would have more than evened the field, but for $25k the 300 f2.8 is not that good and I could buy my whole kit over again with change.

If I were to kit out a newspaper’s tog pool I would go M43 for sure, the kit choices possibly too many for the users to deal with. The editor would love the cost efficiency (justifying another tog or togs at all most likely), the togs would appreciate the weight reduction and the rest would become irrelevant.

Some days the heaviest bit of kit in my bag was a flash, but when you can light a room bouncing it off a far wall at f2.8 and ISO 800, it is worth the extra heft (with a little LED in behind).

Fast zooms, long or wide fast primes, versatile and powerful zooms, small but long lenses? Take your time to take your pick.

  • 9 f1.7, 12-40 f2.8, 45, 40-150 f4, (this was more than I carried most days covering 18-300 with a portrait lens).

  • 10-25 f1.7, 40-150 f2.8, 300. The super 20-600 kit, very capable, but quite heavy….for M43 ;).

  • 8-25 f4, 40-150 f4, 17, 45, 75 f1.8’s. Handy range of f4 zooms, and fast primes.

  • 9, 12-45 f4, 35-100 f2.8, 15, 200, matched 1.4x tc. Super light 18-560.

  • 10-25 and 25-50 f1.7’s, 200 f2.8, matched 1.4x tc. Max speed and minimal (20-560).

  • 9, 12, 20, 45, 75, 200, 300 for the prime lovers.

  • 8-18 Leica, 25 f1.8, 40-150 f2.8, 300, another good range.

So many more combinations, all affordable, all excellent, all able to fit into a standard bag.

Last thoughts?

Ironically, the ability to shoot wide apertures for shallow depth in daylight with fill flash or video are harder with this format, something a neutral density filter can fix.

That’s it.

**The smaller sensor doubles focal length reach, adds two stops of depth of field, reduces movement issues and improves stabilising, not to mention allowing for better video performance specs camera to camera (G9II vs S5IIx).

***last model 70-200, 24-70, 14-24 and older 400 f2.8’s.

Amateur Concerns, Professional Needs.

This may resonate with many, it did with me when a friend mentioned in passing a preference for internal zoom lenses or primes. I realised I do to, but have several lenses that break that self enforced limitation.

When I shot only for myself, I had lines drawn, preferences that I had the luxury of indulging, because the gear, the process and the results were all even partners in the hobby, no matter how seriously I took it.

I used to dislike zooms that extended (the very thing my friend mentioned avoiding), I liked gear to “match” both cosmetically and mechanically. I disliked illogical holes in my lens range and equally having too much gear.

I hated a ding on a camera, a worn bag, a scratched filter, a lens with a slightly less than perfect mount fit. I was fussy, because a lot of the hobby revolved around collecting the perfect kit, enjoying the process and building kits I liked.

An example of this was my very unfortunate quick sale of the 12-100 on the eve of my photographic fortunes changing. I was never a huge fan of zoom lens barrel extension, really disliked the slight (very slight) wobble in the barrel and felt I had too many lenses at the time.

The only reason I even bought extending barrel lenses, often a mechanical imperative for best optical performance, was because I worked in a camera shop and could try out several copies to find the most mechanically “tight” example, so after testing one and being impressed by it’s performance, even for an M43 lens with lots of good ones to compete with, I went for it.

When I turned professional, (well I guess that is what happened, by degrees until I can honestly say I do this more than anything else for money), my needs and perceptions changed.

Now it is clearly all about “as long as it works” and nothing else.

Case in point.

I once had a 12-40 f2.8 and it was great, but thanks to not having a filter on, another metal lens hood in my bag put the smallest of scratches on the lens. I sold it…. cheap. I also learned a lesson about the ability of small M43 lenses to float around in some bags.

I bought another one on special a couple of years later, a last minute impulse thing before a holiday. Another great lens, tight, but still the same pop-out design and it developed a very slight “lump” in the zoom, so it fell into occasional use.

After I started working with my gear, I managed to get sand in the barrel at a beach shoot. Being weather sealed it is external only, between the outer and inner barrels, but the “lump” got very noticeable, with added grinding sounds, so I put the lens into the “imminent replacement likely” category.

I bought the 12-60 Leica with a G9 and felt better, I had a backup and a good one.

When I started at the paper, deciding to use my own gear, I decided to first kill-off my oldest and sickest equipment hoping the paper might fix what was needed (I was saving them kit) or I would just replace it as I went.

Nothing broke or wore out, but I did start to treat things differently.

The older G9 (dropped twice) and EM1.2, the light weight 40-150 f4 and the 12-40 were pressed into service in my every day bag, EM1x’s and faster glass were reserved for sport, other cameras or the Pen F for personal stuff.

Funny thing, the more I used the 12-40, the more the zoom tightness eased and the less I cared about any of it’s ailments that concerned me so much before. The 40-150 f4, a lock-back style lens also became relatively loose over a year, but the key was, I was comparing heavy use and a lot of image wins with some light mechanical wear and tear.

I am always humbled by the work the mechanically ill 12-40 produces. It is my go to for events, studio shoots, sports and video. Sometimes I notice the grinding sensation or it gets a little sticky, I even hear it occasionally, but I just get on with it.

The lens became a favourite again performing flawlessly, especially for video, especially on the G9. My only complaint then was one of weight, but that was on the box.

How things had changed.

When packing now, I hardly ever think about the gear’s condition beyond “will it work on the day”, only the level of gear needed* and its relevance to the job at hand.

Both of my EM10.2’s, my last two reliable EM5.1’s, my oldest G9 and EM1.2 and my 75-300 are all a little “twitchy” with things to be aware of, but at the right time and in the right place, they all work well enough. I might well get another half million frames out of them, which is effectively the working life of a new EM1x.

Dings and scratches?

They have become a badge of my professional history. The 40-150 f2.8 has plenty of marks, the older cams are all showing wear (with a variety of internal textures showing through). The 8-18 has been dropped twice with only the hood showing any sign, the 300 has some mild scratches etc. Nothing I use regularly is “mint” anymore and nor should it be.

Important basketball match? Yep, the less than perfect 12-40, matched with the worn 40-150 were automatic. Two of my most time tested lenses.

All good, because I did that. I used them and they have the scars to prove it. They also have the images and generated income also as justification.

I think what happens is your mental measure of a bit of kit changes.

I used to think about how it felt in the hand, cosmetics, tested sharpness, kit perfection, AF speed and occasional results as my gauge.

I now only use the measure of results achieved.

If AF lets me down constantly, I relegate the lens to less stressful situations. If the lens is sharp, renders well, hits focus and has the needed aperture speed and range, but has a little wobble of stiffness, then it is still a winner by any measure.

If a lens literally falls apart in my hand, then I will let it rest, having served me well, then grab what ever I bought as backup and get on with it. If I know I will miss it, I will replace it, maybe with a different option as there are so many**, get it fixed or evolve into the next thing.

*For junior school shoots, in. studio situation or a simple portrait shot, I will use the oldest and cheapest gear, partly because it can still do it, partly because it often looks less intimidating. For sport, I will go with light, using slower lenses if I can, then go into the “full noise” gear when needed.

**The definition of professional is not necessarily the gear you turn up with, but the ability to keep going if you loose it, i.e. backups. The 12-40 was technically replaced by the 12-60 Leica, but to be honest, that lens is now my G9II’s mate for video, so maybe a tiny 12-45 f4, amazing 8-25 f4, versatile 12-100 f4, the near perfect Pana 10-25 f1.7 or neat 12-35 f2.8. Maybe I will just get another one.

Seeing Sense, Hearing The Call

My mic journey was fun.

It did not cost a packet, I learned a lot and have certainly upped my game sound wise.

A year after the big buy and several years after getting into video, I am facing the reality that I will not be using it all.

A couple of factors.

The two schools I deal with are well equipped and I do not deal with anyone else really at the band or orchestra level.

My end product is video, so I appreciate good sound, but only need so much.

The three SeV dynamic mics and the Prodipe Pro-Lanen are going I think (might keep the Pro-Lanen). I have not used one of them, cannot see a time I will and the Lewitt sextet cover all I would need.

Even when I did some audio recordings recently, I ended up using a shotgun.

This is where they need to be.

The Lewitts are a matched pair of 040 Match short/small condensers, a pair of LCT 240 medium condensers and a pair of 440 dynamic instrument mics. I can do either a single person or duo/trio with any conceivable instrument combination, in an intimate recording (could still happen), but for anything else I would go room wide, so an RCA tree, A/B, X/Y, figure of 8, with maybe a high/low pairing would be used from a central location, but any more is too much.

The Zoom H8 can handle 6 lines as is, and I will have 6 lines. The only thing I could see them being used for is for a panel podcast and that is still possible, but unlikely and if so, I could simply buy some more $15 Boya LAV’s or do the room.

So, my sound recording levels are;

  • On camera shotgun, usually the MKE-400 for its handiness.

  • LAV to camera, either wireless Lark M1’s or wired to camera or recorder.

  • Placed shotgun (wireless or not) which includes mid-side Zoom, MKE 600.

This is normal, now for what I offer above this;

  • Room cover several ways with the Lewitts.

  • Podcast or audio recording.

  • Instrument/vocalist proximity close mics again with the Lewitts, but matched to the job.

Hoping to gift the Se’s to a charity or burgeoning musician.

Because Nobody Else Has To Like It

Why do something one way, when the general consensus is to do it another?

People who would change the world tend to do things at odds with the norm, otherwise they would, well…. be the norm and nothing would change.

If you want to do something and feel it is right, but have doubts, then you should face the doubts and doubters head on. Want to give something away when others tell you never give anything away that can be sold? Want to do something better, longer or deeper than the minimum required?

Your choice, your path, your reasons.

If you want to do something not to the mainstream way of thinking, but you came to that thinking after experimentation, used your own eyes and followed your gut, then keep following that gut feeling, let it rule. It is meant to win sometimes.

Trends tend to be powerful things, it’s what they do, just ask any marketing guru.

Following trends has it’s perils.

If you do, you may become blind to other options, options that may have been trends themselves if they were first or better driven.

Life can be confusing and everyone has an opinion.

If you reject them, then you fall out of step and have to hope that over time, your purer pathway will stand up as well or better than the oft forgotten fashion blip.

There are people out there doing their work regardless of, even in spite of, the latest hot thing. They are the people revealed when a trend re-visits their space. They are there, quietly doing their trade and when that fad dies again, as it always will, they will continue.

It is easy to accuse some people committed to thier chosen task of being unable to change or “go with the times”, but sometimes, a thing or idea is in need of a champion, it needs to exist.

What tends to make them stick to their guns is substance.

Substance always trumps gimmicks, genuine people overcome poor idols, reality and truth defeats the best fabrication, it just sometimes needs a special type of person to see that and hold their course.

Hold your course.

Time will come.


Video Work Flow Realities.

There are a lot of influencers out there, many of them know what they are talking about, some not, but unfortunately think they do which is made even more unfortunate as the video industry in particular is full of variables and opinions, each with their own raft of technical needs, creative constraints, fans and detractors.

As a stills shooter over many years I am starting to see the cracks as a new video generation, as they are often learning from each other, copying, making the same mistakes over and over (applying LUT’s to stills, using incorrect terminology etc), but it took me a while to be confident enough with video to start recognising these as mistakes.

What profile do you use, Log/HLG/Cine-D, colour depth, do you grade with or without LUT’s and when in the process, do you match cameras, filtering, lighting, camera technique? These all have their space, but what if you just want to get good footage out quickly and consistently with enough room to fix those things that will inevitably bite you?

Considering the end point, which is likely Youtube or a web site, the time it takes to consistently process the mix of elements involved, sometimes just getting the front end right fixes a lot of later steps.

I recently put together a video from several parts made with three brands of camera and graphic elements. What made it easy for me and something I learned from this was the Canon footage was processed either in camera of after, but either way, it was nice and easy to work with, bright, natural and colourful, finished basically. My own footage shot on Flat profile was less beautiful OOC, so I had to match what I was given.

Heresy I know, but what if the nay-sayers like Markuspix are right and the end is the only justification of the means. Maybe good work can be had without employing a LOG profile.

My issues with V-log are many.

It is a pain to expose for, needs special treatment in camera and/or after and at the end of the day, tends to be noisier due to it’s highlight tuning, it usually looks to me like a faux filmic, murky, overly warm-toned facsimile of genuine professional cine-video, but that may be processing.

We see a lot of it, we accept it, it is what it is, but I feel that either we don’t know how to get it to where it needs, have become normalised to it’s look, or by it’s very nature cannot get it there at all. Why is it a camera on Standard mode with no changes looks right to me, when graded LOG footage often looks stylistic and odd?

What you gain in the case of the S5’s is 14 stops of dynamic range, which is better measurably than say the 10-12 stops in other profiles, but not nearly enough to fix the unfixable. There are at least 5 more stops that have to be either avoided, mitigated in some way with lighting or angle or just lived with.

A bit like how sound makes or breaks a video, blown highlights can kill one to, so basically concentrate on what highlight detail you need or want, then let the rest fall where it may. This may mean almost black shadows, but they are way more acceptable than blown highlights, just look at some of the latest movies, which are full of bottomless black.

HLG, Flat and Cine-D are “lite” versions of LOG, giving you a small boost in DR, with a much smaller work load after, but still need processing.

After a lot of research over several years and my own meagre experiences, it seems that Standard or Natural profiles on a Panasonic camera, even an old G9 mk1 can give me all the quality that I or my clients need, but there are other considerations.

The file below was one of the first I shot on Standard profile. I was using modified Natural on a G9.1 (-5 Contrast/sharpness/colour), but was struggling with highlight muddiness I have been seeing from a lot of graded LOG footage. I realised afterwards that the same people recommending this came from the LOG camp.

Out of desperation I switched to Standard, no other changes and lo-and-behold, clean, crisp, neutral and punchy files were produced, good enough to lift straight off as stills (without the running bar). Shadows may be lost, but if you expose for them, highlights are retained, just don’t go looking for hellish scenarios.

The very cool thing about the G9 is the 10bit/422 colour depth out of camera, something other makers reserve for several levels up. This was even available in 4k/60 for ten minute clips.

My videos matched my stills (from RAW), my stills matched my video and my videos, as long as I got white balance roughly right, matched each other. I could turn around a 2 minute video with several elements in one hour from shoot to upload and do my stills processing while it uploaded.

The trick was simply to make sure the histogram (no wave form on the old G9.1 without the paid upgrade), was just within the highlight range and I could often eye-ball that. If that meant deep blacks, then so be it.

I will use everything I can to make sure the footage is otherwise the best quality it can be, so I always use 10 bit/422 colour, something Panasonic pioneered in hybrid cameras and still offers at the lowest price point, my best sound possible and my best technique.

Other tricks.

Panasonic offers i-dynamic range and separate shadow/highlight control that can be combined. These are designed for standard profiles and can be used for stills or video. They can significantly increase DR as long as don’t over stress them to avoid that HDR look.

This is not HDR, it is DR expansion. This is one of the advantages of over three decades of engineers trying to get jpegs right, which by its very nature has spilled over to the video equivalent.

This also looks cleaner and more natural than doing it in post (not to mention easier) and all the other benefits of base profiles are retained like improved noise control, colour and contrast.

Filtering.

A soft focus filter like a Black Mist takes the edge off of strong highlights. The look and stronger is very in at the moment, but it will pass, so keep your footage timeless, but avoiding overdoing it.

Lighting.

If you want nice videos in controlled or semi controlled situations, you will likely use lighting, so many problems are solved. Even a simple reflector makes a huge difference. Often when looking at video comparisons of different video profiles, the subject is put into a horror situation like backlit against a washed out sky.

Here is the thing, and this goes for all such tests, any decent cinematographer will avoid that automatically, because it looks like s%#t, so basically they are measuring what will happen when you stuff up to see if the camera will save you.

Like a lot of things in life, don’t do it badly and the bad bit goes away.

Sound.

Poor sound has killed a lot of decent footage, but superior sound gives it a boost.

*

The advantages of this process are speed and consistency, the only down side is are all the attention needs to be paid at the business end. The reality is, even if I was using LOG, I would be manually setting white balance, exposure and having to allow for the needs of the profile all while attending to light, camera angle, sound etc.

I would also be working in an unfamiliar space, something that flies in the face of 30+ years of stills experience and for what?

If I need a get-out-of jail card, I have likely stuffed up more than the extra 1-2 stops Log can save and still struggle with the end results anyway.

My growth path is now re-aligned mostly to the capture end, where I want to be anyway, less to processing.

The huge advantage of this is the availability of 5 matched cameras*.

The only variation on my mind is the possible use of Flat profile for trickier situations, but I will look at the DR thing first.

I am a stills shooter with a passion for producing decent commercial video on the occasions it is needed. If that changes, I will change as needed.

*2x G9.1, G9.2, S5.1, S5.2

The Future Is Now

Nothing is ever certain, a good thing to remember.

Even better is the reality you make your own future through the choices you take, the preparations you make.

I have been in a photographic funk lately. Little work from the schools (holidays), little else, with winter and the usual mid-year lull, no personal goals to reach and a little scar tissue still from my time at the paper.

All journeys have a habit of ending up where they began.

The longer I am away from the paper the happier I am I have removed myself from that basic and slanted dynamic, but of course it is human nature to dwell on the good now the bad is gone (we never remember the annoying summer heat, flies and mosquitoes in winter’s cold, that’s human).

My forced break of three weeks has refreshed me, maybe even woken me up a little.

Two brothers with hopefully long futures ahead. Who will they be in twenty, forty or sixty years?

This year has been one of questioning myself, my methods, my ideals. Last year I gave as much as I could, this year I have felt more reserved, maybe a little generosity shy. That needs to change, but I am a great believer that things will come if you are open to them and don’t push too hard against the flow.

It could be the people I have been hanging around, some of whom have a very different life view, or it maybe just a phase, but my “play it by ear and see what comes” attitude of recent years has become more “why?”. I need to open that mind back up, be more me, more generous of spirit. Let the naivety back in and drop the question on the end of every sentence, for my own good as much as for others.

Life is good for me, but not for everyone and I need to remember that.

Be yourself, but think of others, always.



Some Light

Sometimes you do something contrary to the usual.

To be honest street photography is that thing for me at the moment, odd to say but true. Street is the only genre I do for me and the thought of moving from it means in many ways, moving on from photography as anything but a job.

Is it still then a job?

A single trip to Japan last year probably the confirmation, that my street shooting days seemed over.

More specifically though, my street shooting when I do it is usually on the move.

The other style, that of letting the subjects come to a space, a little like a patient spider on a suitably photogenic web, is more likely to get you something predictable but a luxury that is so alien to me, I can literally count my opportunities on the fingers of both hands.

Waiting for Meg at the Eastern end of the Mall in Melbourne, I was attracted to a strong point of reflected light (my favourite light) coming from a building at the opposite end.

The building is the top of the one at the end of the street.

A flat moment looking away from it, but one of only few.

The newer traffic was interesting in its normality, but just my type of thing. The two poles were used to split the frame.

Now from the same spot, looking back into the light.

Light is all. The images are just what they are, regular people being themselves, the light provides the brilliance, drama and clarity.

Some Street Therapy

Street photography has been something I felt was on the wane, realistically a dead duck actually.

The balancing act that is exciting exploration vs intrusion and a feeling of stepping over the line of decency has been leaning heavily on the cautious end for me. Street photography has become more “random scenes maybe with people in them”.

A short hop to Melbourne though may have shifted that feeling.

In Japan I felt very much like I was crossing a line, something that on one hand surprised me, but also, maybe not so much. My tastes have been changing, the people of Japan rediscovering their love of respect and privacy.

Light it seems is the key.

Gorgeous, intriguing, generous light.


And This While We Are At It.

Tin House Studio again with this;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eA5eB-Xwmik

and this,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDV-i7l0M-c

Don’t like surfing off another’s wave, but I totally agree and admit to being guilty, guilty, guilty!

I am probably mid-youtuber influenced with video, but also find (as has been written before), that the use of misinformation is rife and a danger in real terms. If misconceptions are accepted, they are only relevant within the circle of acceptance.

Terminology, trends, actual technical information are all tainted by poor understanding by a presenter. I have been doing this (stills) for a long time and the bulk of my information came from trusted and accurate sources*, so I am happy to share my thoughts and skills, confident I will “do no harm”.

Video opened up my eyes to the reality that, thanks to the old school cameramen being few and far between and probably out of the loop anyway, a raft of learn-as-you-go, think you know enough to share, then share, then realise you were off track, so do a follow up video, not admitting fault, just sharing “new learnings”, while sticking to the same bad terminology and ideas people, are running things.

Grains of salt.

Why is it, I listen to what they say and often dislike what I see and worse than that, it contradicts what I do see on TV and in the movies? Dull, wishy-washy muted tones, odd colours, an unrealistic vibe, too much “mist”. Cinematic or just a reaction to trends based on not knowing any better?

It is a worry when you want to learn something, but don’t trust the majority of the sources you are encountering. I would go to university if I needed to, but I live in hope there are other routes.

Traditional wisdom when using the G9 Mk1 was Natural profile at -5 everything. I tried it and had mixed success, so in frustration I switched to Standard, no changes and lo-and-behold, my footage just looked how I wanted, basically like a still image. Dynamic range may be down, so I simply avoided unwanted highlight blowout (not afraid of inky blacks) and situations that would bite me (just like the top cinematographers do every day).

I have found that YouTube info is good, but it must only ever be a start to your own thought processes, not the beginning, middle and end without question.

I shoot Panasonic, not Sony, in Flat or Standard, with camera to eye, without a gimbal, usually without even a screen, which all flies in the face of most common wisdom, but it works for me.

My Voice From Me, Your Voice From You And Other Stuff From Someone Else

Finding your voice.

Tin House Studios videos are a favourite. I like the guy (Scott), like his honesty and tone. Some really hit home more than others.

This one on finding your voice;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SrtVV7gX0sQ

and this one about being you, really you;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NczXJBSBP4Y

Answers to questions posed are tough, tougher than they should be seeing as the answers are known only to you.

The first one, which is to identify who you really are, what are your influences and what created the shape of your imaging “brain”, seems like many other “find yourself” vlogs, but it is deeper.

My influences are from mid to later twentieth century photographers, most American, although most of those were European refugees and immigrants, fleeing World War 2 or later.

My love is for the lyrical and simple landscape, especially details (Adams, Sexton, John Shaw), for emotive and interesting light, the sort most early colour shooters used (Haas, Leiter) were forced to use, or later period National Geographic style shooters (Sam Abell etc) chose to.

This ties into where I live, a place of surpassing beauty, cold temperate light and clarity, but I also dreamed of other places.

Quiet images, clean, powerful, stereotype resistant (usually by preceding the stereotype), mono or colour, any format but generally subdued, gentle.

For video, I was an early sucker for Ken Burns documentaries and epic movies, but I guess that is anyone over 40.

The second one is easier.

Things that make me unhappy and force me into stress cycles before (more controlled anxiety these days) and recovery mode after completion are:

  • Controlling adults for environmental posed portraits, especially if the end result is not to my liking (the paper) and under pressure. This includes weddings, non studio portrait sittings, environmental portraits with limited scope. The other togs at the paper did this zombie-like, but I just could not, not care. I thought having help would help, but it does not.

  • Still life, which ironically is the happy place for the inspiration of this post above. No time for this. I cannot even get a consistent lens or camera test setup. My subject needs action, movement and above all it’s own free will or I am bored, frustrated and pretty ordinary overall.

  • Old fashioned landscapes, astro etc even though I started there and know it like the back of my hand. If I am going to do landscapes etc, they are “on the fly”, which modern cameras empower or possibly extreme long exposures in mono and concentrate on details, not “big sky” shots.

  • Street shooting. This one is tough, because I thought I loved this, but I miss-identified it. I love randomly found compositions of things natural and man made with extraordinary light (see above), not human-centric confrontational street shooting in the original sense.

  • Distractions, which apply to all these above and below. I hate working with the knowledge I need to caption (take names) which always breaks my engagement, or to be under the purview of a “creative director” which is more often than not just a person with an opinion, their own stresses and a need to control, be they educated or not.

Things that make me happy, excited even;

  • People and animals in their natural space, or to be more precise ignoring me and just being themselves. This includes environmental portraits that allow me enough time to get the job done properly, to lose myself in the process and forget other pressures. The schools like my “fly on the wall” approach and I repay them with bucket loads of natural, genuine images.

  • Studio portraits, which for some reason take away all the angst of the other types of portrait sittings. I guess it is the application of control, real control, not just trouble shooting that makes the difference as I can then let them be themselves in that space. This is a contradiction I know and I cannot explain it, but it is a thing. This also goes for video interviews. Again, not sure why*.

  • Found things. This is actually what I identified as street photography. It may include people, but not as the primary subjects, more as a part of the overall picture.

  • Action and drama. Sport, stage, parades, concerts, you name it. If it people doing something dramatic, count me in. The capturing of these comes as second nature and plays into my love of people being themselves, but it must be from an observers perspective, not a choreographers’s.

  • Video. Generally video appeals because it falls into these categories. Movement in video is natural by default, static is studio like, but all good in that space. Not a huge fan of over stylising video, the subject should sell it or go home now.

Probably for me at the moment, I need to look less at my photographic likes and dislikes and more at my career path overall. The welfare of people and animals are where it is at, maybe the imaging is a revealing of that, not an end point.



*At the paper, I used to shoot my interview video over the shoulder of the journalist, then some B-roll, while also getting my natural stills the same way. The posed shots, something both the journalist and subject expected were taken, but rarely used.

Much better a genuine interaction than a posed shot.


The (Real) Full Frame Difference

Full frame is in my kit now and my kit feels better for it.

Feels better, but is it actually?

I have covered this before, differently. The reality of the full frame difference is becoming more clearly defined for me, the more I use the format.

The good?

There is a difference in how I perceive ISO, happily going into 6400+ territory with my “high quality” hat still donned.

But,

this has to be in conjunction with faster glass. Something odd happens in low light. I find that without fast glass, usually using the 20-60 kit lens, the settings seem less user friendly than my usual M43 cameras produce. At f1.8 with a Pana S-prime, I do get an advantage in clarity and clean imaging at very high ISO’s.

Without a like for like matching of glass, I see little real value, much preferring a M43 lens wide open to a slower full frame lens.

This brings up the differences in format.

M43 gives you a lens with matching full frame magnification that provides you with a little more than two stops more depth of field. The format allows a 75mm f1.8 (my old “Bokeh king”), to act like a 150mm f2.8 full frame lens in full frame terms.

The 85mm f1.8, my current Bokeh king is a powerful lens, but as I found previously with full frame, using it wide open is often too much for anything but artistic works or beauty portraits and the reach is pedestrian in comparison to a M43 equivalent (170mm).

The ability to pick out this leaf is great, but rarely of actual use to a working pro. An even faster or longer lens would be even more specialised. The M43 version (75mm 1.8) would offer some extra actual reach for the effort. Temperatures here at the moment are chilly (for us). Liawenee on the central plateau recorded the same temp (-13.5 c) as Casey Station our Antarctic base today. It rarely snows where I live, but it does get cold.

The same shot focussed on the (dirty) window. I missed several my mere breaths, but that is the fickleness of full frame.

Some context.

All lenses of the same focal length offer the same depth of field as each other on all formats, all else being equal*. Shorter lenses offer more depth of field at a given aperture because they change perspective to wider (more or longer/tighter (less). What changes with format is magnification. The smaller the format, the greater the magnification.

A 50mm f1.8 on full frame is a standard-semi portrait focal length with very shallow depth of field wide open at f1.8.

In medium format, this lens becomes a wide angle, with surprisingly shallow depth for a wide lens from a full frame shooters perspective. Often the quality advantage of larger film or a bigger sensor was lost to the need to stop down more.

On M43 it is a 100mm equivalent (x2) true portrait lens with the same depth of field characteristics, so less shallow depth, but every aperture is safely usable and the loss ISO benefit of the format above becomes a two stop gain.

Another with the 85mm wide open. Something I am not used to these days, is taking a half dozen only to find most are very slight misses, this one being the only one where the focus hit exactly what I wanted (most hit the right flowers, just forward or backward of what I wanted). Lovely Bokeh, but tighter processes are needed. The IRIX 150 macro is a case in frustration, nothing to do with the lens, just a reality of the physics. If I did this shot with the 45mm wide open, I could trust that the forward flowers would be sharp. I just know it would be, because I am acclimatised to the format and the Book would be perfectly nice, just a little more coherent.

Which is better?

The M43 lens to me has the right balance between magnification and depth of field control in the real world.

A full frame 100 f1.8 wide open would have about two stops less depth of field than the M43 equivalent, which for most uses is an extreme application of Bokeh, would make the lens relatively huge and expensive as well as harder to make.

Full frame users often fall back on f2.8 zooms, both for their versatility and the reality that f2.8 is usually enough and safe.

Wide open on the 85mm is my happy limit and it does look nice. Focussing becomes critical, reducing the number of keepers. Things tend to be in or out, no compromise. I can get the same effect from the M43 45mm f1.8, just by getting closer, which is easier with a tiny little lens, or with my 75mm from further back. All are valid processes.

Simply put, I often, usually even, shoot wide open with M43 zooms and primes with little fear of missing half my subject. This nets me two stops more light, which means faster shutter speeds or lower ISO settings and somehow, the math always seems friendlier until I get to genuinely cave-like conditions.

ISO limits in M43 are 1600 for “A” grade quality, also thought of as “no thought or action required” territory. The workable limit for professional quality work, with more or less effort** is 12,800 which I rarely need, but if I do, that and my clutch of f1.4 to 1.8 primes covers most situations. To be fair, I have rarely if ever had the noise or grain in an image questioned except by another photographer and even then, it is usually a win.

In M43, I can easily carry my f2.8 work horse zooms and a small set of 1.8 primes as well. It is no effort to pack two bodies and lenses covering full frame equivalents of 16-300 f2.8 and 18-150 f1.8 at the same time. Even a 600 f4 is a minor consideration. When I was with the paper, I was almost at the point I could confidently work with the 9, 15 f1.7’s and 45, 75 f1.8’s, for all my editorial work. The cropping power of a 20mp M43 camera off a sharp prime at a lower ISO (thanks to the lens speed/depth of field thing) was phenomenal, especially for web and news print. I had effectively 18-400mm f1.8 at hand. Below is a sample from my 300mm, a lens of equivalent quality.

In full frame, I have not needed to push past these same settings, but would if I used the kit zoom instead of a fast prime (would I?). All ISO settings I have used sit in the “A” grade range, higher than 12,800 is untaped so far, which proves the point to some extent.

Colour and dynamic range are deeper, white balance in particular. I find myself doing a little less work on images taken in crappy light. This may be generational, not format based as most of my M43 cameras are at least four years older and the G9II has not been put directly up against the S5II yet.

Negatives?

The bulk of four relatively modest Panasonic full frame lenses is significant, bag limiting actually, while the coverage is weak (20-85). I have no plans to add long telephoto lenses other than the IRIX 150 cine-macro, nor could I justify the cost as the benefits are few.

So it stands to reason given the above math, that focussing is harder to nail with full frame, even with the S5II being a strong performer. This is why the G9II is more reliable in moving video, simply because at the same magnification and aperture, it is using a wider lens with more native depth of field and the smaller stabiliser also adds stabilising power.

Current fashions of super shallow depth aside, practical depth is easily achieved near wide open with M43 making lenses like the excellent 10-25 f1.7 a very practical consideration, where a f2.8 zoom in full frame shares similar performance, cost and weight, they lose light gathering power.

M43 lens sharpness and speed is also easier to achieve as is close focus. My tiny little Leica 9mm f1.7 is relatively cheap, weather sealed, optically strong and focusses to a few centimetres. There is no full frame equivalent, just like my 75 (150) f1.8, the 10-25 and 25-50 f1.7’s, tiny and sharp 45 f1.8 or 15 f1.7 and many others.

The image quality of M43 to full frame should only be measured in pixel density to real numerical values and practical ISO performance, which in most cases, is no different like for like. The pixel density of the EM1x is about the same as Z9, so a cropped Z9 file is basically the same, except that you paid for more and are using less***.

We passed the time of good enough or not cameras. All modern mirrorless or DSLR cameras have good enough image quality for most professional uses, so good, better and best are like the 8, 9 and 10 scales on a graph.

Ironically, the M43 camera can likely exceed maximum pixel count of a full frame with advanced sensor shift high res, so it goes both ways, just differently.

Super sharp down to eyelash level, a friend and dedicated full frame sport shooter was impressed by the sheer clarity of this and my other sport images, format not mentioned. There is no doubt in my mind that my keeper rate, something that allows me to shoot single frames these days, comes down to mirrorless camera reactivity and the M43 depth of field advantage. My friend uses a Canon 500 F4 DSLR lens (5D4’s) and finds the depth of field often too shallow, but her backgrounds are softer. She does suffer from back issues, which she refuses to confirm are kit based.

Lens design.

I cannot remember the last time a soft edge bothered me, even wide open, something that reared it’s head again with my full frame cinema glass and my otherwise excellent 20-60 kit lens. Even the S-primes are a little soft wide out, wide open (but the depth of field is so shallow it hardly matters).

*

So, when do I think to myself “oh good, I can now use the frame”?

  • When I am going into a very dark artificial light situation with no hope of flash being used and the distances are not too great. I will still use M43 for the bulk, but might add the S5II with the 50 or 85mm lens. This is as much down to lens choice as any other factor. My 9 and 75mm cannot be matched, but my 15/17, 25, 30 and 45 basically can, so I have a choice to make.

  • When I have the luxury of time, control and want less processing to do. I know my maximum available objective quality is in full frame, but this needs balancing with the ease of getting that quality. I am also aware that any extra quality is minor, usually irrelevant at the end of the chain. I am doing a portrait shoot this weekend and will take both formats for their relative benefits****.

  • When shooting cinematic video in low light, where the noise fixes are harder to apply and less effective and depth of field control is more of a creative imperative. I like f4 on full frame, f2.8 on APS-C, f2 on m43 for the same feel, so at depth matching apertures in this space, cleaner high ISO performance does matter. The original deal breaker of the S5 was dual ISO at the price.

I bought full frame for video and to be honest, this is my main use case, but even then, for moving video I will go to the G9II always, even the G9 Mk1 feels as confident as my full frames.

The G9II has fewer limits in video formats and crops than the S5II (or X), which is a specific comparison I know, but could hardly be more relevant in this case.

I sometimes regret adding the mess that is a little full frame to my kit as most issues could have been solved by lenses.

The S5, S5.II, 35, 50, 85 S-prime and 35, 50, 150 cine lens kit could as easily have been a GH5.II, later a G9.II, 10-25 and 25-50 f1.7’s and a set of Sirui Nightwalker (16, 24, 55) and/or anamorphic lenses (24, 35, 50). The cost would have been similar, but my M43 dynamic would have been intact, my choices cleaner and my bags and filters smaller.

I don’t regret it though as full frame adds a few (few) benefits, some depth and new ways of seeing and capturing the world.

*Same aperture, distance to subject, subject distance to background etc.

**This is using Capture 1, which has proven time and again to provide better sharpness to noise performance than Lightroom and ON1 No Noise fixes what it cannot.

***When the Nikon rep came to the paper last year trying to sell their new $25,000au 300mm f2.8 (and add a $9k Z9), her big push was to “crop those pixels for effectively a 2x teleconverter”. I could not help but think that would then basically equal my EM1x and 300mm, which I could buy six times over!

****EM1x with 40-150, 75 and 45 Old, Sigma 30, S5II with 35, 50 and 85. The 35 will give me shallow depth at a wide angle, the 85 maximum cut out, the 75 more reach, the EM1x is better for movement and the S5 can handle possible dappled or bland light better.

Perfection

If I were asked what makes a perfect short film or an example of the best of two realms of creation, because any small part can be lifted and delivered as an example or an exemplar in short film making, the first episode of “The Bear” series three “Tomorrow” would be a good place to start.

Any two or three minute part would do, the whole thing was jaw dropping.

A perfect crafting of perfection in crafting.

Few words, no context, unless you know the previous two seasons intimately and even then, none needed to enjoy it.

So many answers, so many questions, it is yet another masterwork from a series of masterworks.

Never fails to surprise.

Dedicated people can do amazing things and the one thing they all have in common is unwavering focus and hard, hard work.

Because All Roads Seem To Lead There.

I believe fixed focal length lenses are the best option for video, as long as the video being produced does not need instant focal length changes, like covering a live sporting event.

The reasons for this are many and many others have looked at this in detail, but basically my reasoning is;

  • It makes more sense to the viewer to have the lens/camera move, than for it to zoom. In real life, things move, we do not zoom our eyes in and out. Video as opposed to stills mimics a shared real life experience rather than a captured frozen moment of it, so the process itself becomes obvious.

  • Cinema zooms are heavy, generally slower and more expensive as well as limited in options. Simply not gonna happen in my world. If they are not cinema grade, then they do not zoom smoothly and without breathing.

  • They are faster, or if nit they are a hell of a lot cheaper for the speed.

  • They make things clean and remove unnecessary mental clutter. I shoot better with primes, always have, always will and video has really bought this home to me yet again. The rule of making the most of the focal length you have* is so much more relevant in this space.

Which focal length would I call my go-to?

It seems 50mm (full frame equivalent) is the one, because I keep buying them. In a lot of respects it matters little. You use what you have, it moulds your thinking and becomes comfortable.

  • 7Artisans 50mm T2 Spectrum on a full frame. My favourite Spectrum lens.

  • Lumix-S 50mm f1.8 on a full frame. A very solid base.

  • 7Artisans 35mm T2 Spectrum, 52.5 on APS-C crop.

  • Lumix-S 35 f1.8 52.5 on APS-C crop. Near perfect with this crop.

  • TTArtisans 35mm f1.4, 52.5 on APS-C crop (needs to be cropped). Imperfect but tons of character.

  • Olympus 25mm f1.8 on M43. This one is closer to a 22 = 45mm in reality.

  • Legacy 25mm f2.8 on M43. Old and nice to use with character.

  • Sirui 24mm Nightwalker on M43. A 48mm and very natural feeling.

I have left the Helios 58 and Pentax 50 f1.4 SMC out of this.

The reality is, I like a slightly wider lens, something around a 40mm, but these are thin on the ground, so I am adapting. The Olympus 25mm comes closest, being closer to a 45mm equivalent, but is probably the least “cinematic” of the bunch.

My full range for video is 16mm (M43, no crop), to 150mm full frame/225mm APS-C or 1000mm (ish) in M43 with crops etc.

This space has been visited before, but I now have matched cameras (G9II and S5), so I can compare apples to relative apples.

Now there are other motivations here also.

Top end cinema lenses are nearly perfect or they are very specifically imperfect as desired by the cinematography world. My “budget” cinema lenses are imperfect, but not character specifically by design, just acceptably imperfect, sort of a “take what you get and justify it as cinematic” thing that is common at the moment.

Inconsistency in colour is the big issue.

What I need to know is, are they actually good at my intended working apertures (F2.8 to 4 full frame, 2 to 2.8 APS-C or 1.8 to 2 M43) or if not are they bad in a good way? Can my stable of 50mm lenses be used for a variety of looks, or are they too far apart to be used this way?

Do any stand out one way or the other?

Consistent testing practices included a tripod, manual focus confirmation, controlled light, timer release and the same default processing. I used the G9.II and S5.1 as their sensors match best. The S5.II is warmer than either.

Inconsistencies included not always using F/T4 for full frame and 2.8 for APC crops and f2.8 was used for two of the M43 lenses instead of f2, one because I had to and for some reason, the Spectrum 35mm is out of focus, which based on previous experience, is down to me not the lens.

I really am crap at this these days, but it does the job.

50mm T2 Spectrum

This one has a cooler, more Magenta look than the 35mm below, with lighter focussing and aperture rings. I like it more overall. Nicer to focus, Bokeh is nicely separated, if a little “interesting” and the centre is sharp. It is a cropped 75mm, an interview lens also. On the S5 Mk1 test camera, it is cooler than on the S5II.

T4 was chosen as the ideal working aperture for a full frame lens.

35mm T2 Spectrum as APS-C

Obviously warmer, mechanically tighter and physically slightly shorter than the 50mm, this one is less liked for hand held work, but with a follow focus applied it is much the same. I can normalise these two, but find the 50mm is actually closer to the big IRIX in reality. The big advantage of this one is it is a 35 and a cropped 50mm, so one lens for two focal lengths like above, but possibly more useful.

T4 was a mistake, clearly rendering more depth than the crop frame T2.8 would. I like the warmth, but it is different enough from the 50 to be an issue. Also focus may be a little backward, my bad. Even so, the Bokeh is maybe a little smoother and the lens more organic looking. I like it more optically, but less mechanically.

35 TTArt f1.4 as APS-C

Horrible to use manually with its tiny little focus ring, the results are interesting, even exciting. I like this heavily letter-boxed as a faux anamorphic lens, warts (distortion, obvious vignetting, funky Bokeh, C.A, flare) and all.

TTArtisan 35 F4. Again should have been f2.8. This needs cropping on a full frame, so technically it is at its best/only effective focal length although it can be used as a 35mm with a wide crop. Stopped down, it is hard to beat for under $100au.

Panasonic S-prime 35mm f1.8 as APSC

Interestingly, the Pana 35 and 50mm lenses also have colour consistency issues, just not as bad as the Spectrums. I have felt this before and this test bares this out. The 35mm on the warmer S5.II and the 50mm on the S5.1 would maybe even things out much like the Spectrums, but closer and reversed. Maybe the Spectrum 35 above is close to right as the Bokeh looks similar.

The 35mm cropped at F4 has a more modern, flatter rendering with fast transition Bokeh. No explanation for the added glow and brightness as nothing changed.

Panasonic S-prime 50mm f1.8

This is a solid and handy lens, one that can be cheap enough to get multiples for consistency. I feel it is close to the most neutral in every way, the “bar” to be set.

F4 on the 50mm (actually the right setting for once). Nice Bokeh, nice colour, but the 35mm seems a little “snappier”.

Sirui 24mm T1.2 on M43.

This is a full frame 48mm equivalent, so slightly wider and closer to my ideal. Like the 50mm Spectrum, it is light and pleasant to use hand held. Bokeh is nice, sharpness also. Colour is warm, like the Spectrum 35 and Pana 50mm.

T2 on M43 is slightly more depth of field than F4 on full frame, but close enough. This lens has T1.2 up it’s sleeve also.

Olympus 25mm f1.8 on M43

A modern lens in every way, I use it too little, especially for video. It has a nice balance of contrast and clarity for a modern lens, but focus by wire is an issue.

F2.8 on the Olympus 25mm f1.8, also a little wider in angle of view, which is known. When the 25 f1.2 came out, inevitable comparisons were made (and this lens held it’s own), but it was also revealed as being slightly the wider of the two.

Legacy 25mm Oly F series Half Frame on M43

Straight from the half-frame range of the 60’s via the throw out box at the shop I used to work at.

F2.8 on this lens is a thing. It is quite gently hazy wide open, a little like Flat profile compared to Standard. Stop it down one stop and it is clearly crisper and richer, but it is effectively shooting at F8 in full frame, out of my ideal range. There is something about this lens.

Some thoughts.

The M43 lenses are close in colour, even though they are split by type, brand and in one case over 50 years! I actually had to check I had not exported the same shot three times.

I like the slightly wider coverage and the Sirui is capable of matching the clear cut-out of F4 on the full frame lenses with two extra stops of light.

Colour consistency is disappointing and something testing helps sort out. I have colour matched sets, just not in the same sets, nor on the sensors in the cameras. If I treat each lens as it’s own creature, then I guess no problem, but quick switches of “matching” sets, is not a thing.

Colour groups (roughly).

Cool Blue-Magenta: Panasonic 35, Spectrum 50, Artisan 35.

Neutral: Panasonic 50.

Warm Yellow-Green: Spectrum 35, all the M43 lenses.

My preferences, on these cameras, are:

The 35mm Spectrum for its warmth, versatility, close focus and overall rendering, but on the S5II the warmth is maybe a little too much and the 50mm handles better. I will make this the S5.1’s standard lens, the S5.II and 50mm the “B” cam.

The 50mm Panasonic for its neutrality and overall stability. This is the safe go-to for commercial interviews etc with the added benefit of being a cropped 75mm portrait lens. This and the Sirui below share similar Bokeh rendering.

The Sirui 24mm is probably the best cine lens overall except for heft, which can help. The G9II has the best stabiliser, but the lens is lighter. It all equals out I guess. The rendering, Bokeh, extra speed (my fastest lens), handling and slightly wider coverage, 67mm filters, all add up to a compelling choice. If the 16mm matches it’s colour, I may get that to. The Sirui and Spectrum 35 are close in rendering, so I can match the G9.II to the S5.1.

I bought the Spectrums on special and they make the S5.I more relevant, but the Sirui is probably a better “one lens” solution and the new 16mm makes it even more compelling.

The Olympus legacy 25mm is a sleeper. Nice to use, unique look, added character and nice focus throw.

The new Oly is also under used.

An odd thought comes to mind.

It seems most of my 50mm lenses are under used for stills, the last lenses to take usually, the opposite is true for video, where I find them the “one lens that does all”, even if a slightly contradictory “normal” focal length**. Handy and natural to use.

Other considerations are of course zooms. The Olympus 12-40 and Leica 12-60 are work horse lenses with added benefits, but that’s another story. The limit of f2.8 is also actually ideal for video.

My ideal set is a matched set of 35/50, 50/75 full frame/crop, but it seems getting true matching lenses is tough short of the sort of money I am not spending. The reality that some sensors also do not match (S5 vs S5II) may help ironically, but still, consistency across the range would be good.

  • S5 (cool) likes the Spectrum 35 and the 50 Lumix (warm)

  • S5II (warm) likes the Spectrum 50 and Lumix 35 (cool)

  • G9II (cool) seems to treat all of it’s tested lenses equally (neutral/warm).

Now all I have to do is find matching LUT’s!

Ed. This of course does not cover flare, contrast, etc, but it is a start.

*Probably the opposite rule of “don’t make everything look the same by zooming” is closer.

**Not long, not wide, but not as neutral as the 40mm “true” standard.

But First You Need A Decent Photo

The more I work on my B-roll and video overall, the more I am struck by the reality that if you make a good photo to start with, then a good bit of video should result.

As a starting frame, this holds up.

This is one of the potential advantages of being a stills photographer turning to video*.

The starting point should be a second in so the viewer can absorb the whole idea.

The stills shooter knows that their image is a single moment of time that has to stand up to extended viewing. This makes them more aware of the whole image, especially when extended depth of field is employed.

Directors like Wes Anderson go to excruciating lengths to create stunning and detailed frames with not a lick out of place. They use deep depth of field (sometimes faked with layered models), employ the whole width of the frame and shoot true wide or anamorphic wide.

Most of us would not see these painstakingly perfect little elements of their frame unless we freeze them and study the still, but if we do, the elements are there. So if they are making a movie frame and most of the small details would only be noticed on repeated viewings and many would be lost without the ability to freeze the frame, why do it?

It still matters. A perfect frame is seemingly invisible but it matters.

I remember many years ago an example in I think Camera and Darkroom magazine of an image that had far too much information for the print medium (news paper) compared to another with exactly the right amount.

You could see the difference. I remember then having a revelation that what we do does matter, even if it feels like it is lost in the end result.

*Another is composing and stabilising with the camera to the eye, which is different and often better.

This Old Pearl Again

I have struggled through my entire photographic life with this, knowingly or (mostly) unknowingly.

https://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2014/06/11/take-or-make-by-david-lykes-keenan/

The divide between photographic maker or taker is not always simply one of process, nor client desire, it is sometimes one of life philosophy. A photo maker and photo taker may be as different as a plumber is to an electrician or possibly more accurately an architect to a builder.

I know plenty of shooters who need to exert control, even if their desire is the capture reality. I saw a lot of it at the paper, people doing the same thing the same way for many years, decades even, means they have a self expectation, a deliberately limited process, something I pushed hard against adopting.

I struggle to “make” a photo. I am trying to reason why, so maybe I can do something about it, but the reality is, watching, not telling is too deeply ingrained in me and not just in my use of this medium.

I have always disliked fakery.

Ironically, the taker is more generous, not wanting to assert their opinion on the subject, just their interpretation of them.

The maker takes control.

In photography, the reality is, some of the process is always manufactured, whether it be a choice of film, developer, camera brand in digital, shooting mode, or processing, something is always made up, controlled, but it is where and when the choices are made that makes the difference.

Pre-visualising a loose concept, a desire for the shape and capture of a hunt is very different to making a fully formed concept from scratch.

Walking out the door to take street images with a selected camera and lenses, a choice between zooms or primes, RAW or jpeg, film of digital, night or day, colour or mono, all must be made or you cannot function and they will effect the end result, but they are selected tools, not selected props in a stage play of your making. The subject, sought after with the above gear, still has to decide for itself, what you will get to compose you image.

The road is a mystery, it rambles, the terrain shifts, the subjects have no controllable time table.

This may not be acceptable for a client or creative director, working to a time frame and the expectations of another. If they allow the process to bloom, it may transcend their expectations, but it is risky, inefficient.

The commercial photographer must make an image. Tools are as important, even more so possibly, because compromise cannot be put down to the whims of the world, but lead back to the maker only.

Concept to realisation is a straight and unforgiving road, a highway made for speed to the destination.

Art is the grey area. Making is part of the process more or less, but making to a non-conformist concept is the difference. Even the established “old school” landscape shooters (and street shooters) are working within strict parameters, even if they do not know or realise it.

I still struggle to manufacture images, which is a problem in my new role, just not as common as before. The paper demanded a manufactured image, but would accept a naturalistic version if it fit the rather limited criteria. If you were cover sport, a street parade, a concert or even conflict, then “what you see is what it is” can work, should really, but for most front page fodder, making the “shape” is all important.

Dated, small minded, artistically loathsome come to mind, but it is what it is.

Pushing back against that is tough and ill-advised. I know that sometimes you win, but you always need the fall-back of “that” image, the one that often even the subject resists.

My track record of landscape shooting has generally been poor, something I put down to patience, but the reality to me is, it feels manufactured.

Sport, something that works within limited constraints feels relatively free, which is an illusion I know, but the feeling is one of capture, not placement, asserting limited control, not exerting full control and the creative responsibilities that come with that.

This is primal drama manufactured by sport. Not natural, but emotive none the less, because it is a real response to an artificial environment.

Even stage drama, make to measure, is still a hunt to the shooter, just a hunt within a cage. It is the people, the, dare I say it, human drama that makes it real even if it is no more than superficial. Composing low with backlighting adds drama for example, so it is taking some control, but there is no two way communication.

This performer is offering drama, the photographer capturing that intent using everything at hand.