Video Glass, Why And How?

The Vespid has shifted the bar for me a little.

It is reassuring, even exciting to have a true (budget) cine lens in the kit, but also a little unsettling. I am happy enough that I have bought the MFT-PL adapter as well to maximise its potential (covering 40/60 and 70/80 focal lengths across my four formats)

This can lead to a syndrome I am aware of, something I noticed years ago when I bought high end Hi Fi gear.

Upgrade your cables and then you start looking sideways at your amp, then your speakers, then a source provider, then…… you do it all again. Balance is important, shifting it can be as bad as it is good and doing so needs to be done with some consideration.

It cost me tons back in the day, but it kept me busy and at the top of my game (I was selling the stuff as well).

My first to be settled question is can the Hope and other lenses I have keep up or provide something different enough to matter? Can they be the partners the Vespid needs to function as part of a team, or is this going to force a shift across the board when multiple cams are used and will the other lenses fall away?

Once I do some tests, I will maybe put this to bed.

If not, where to from here?

I have the IRIX 150 macro in L-Mount, several sets of Spectrum (L), Hope (MFT) and stills lenses (for both mounts), none of which I want to make redundant, but also, if the Vespid is better by enough to matter, I will not hold myself back out of blind loyalty.

Nothing is ever wasted, but sometimes you need to move forward to support your “A” game.

If they are good but different, then that is fine, each lens set can have its own job.

The Hope lenses for example are clean and robust, match reasonably (matched colour is a small issue with the two I have, but no more than mixing cameras), they are clearly capable of good work, so if they offer something the Vespid does not, they are an option.

Based on cosmetics, it looks an easy job.

So, assuming I have options, or the Vespid elevates my base, the logical (?) thing is to add the 25mm Vespid MkI ($1200au). It is perfectly sharp from f2.8, especially on MFT or APS-c cams with tighter corners, but has the mild CA issues and wide open gentle softness of the 40mm, so it can be used with character or clean, aside from aperture limitations (more on this below).

This would give me a spread of 25-225mm across four formats (with the IRIX 150 macro), enough for anything I would need, the establishing, group or dramatic wide shot, semi wide two person, several levels of tight and compressed portrait, a true tele-macro and multiple ways of mixing these.

The only flaw in this logic is MFT performance which is half the logical justification for this lens. The 25mm on MFT becomes a handy 45-50mm focal length (depending on camera), but with the need to stop it down to T2.8 to 4 for best performance (maybe, as central performance is decent wide open), it is effectively shooting at T5.6 to 8 full frame equivalent.

If I am buying the Vespids for character not perfection, then the 25 makes sense as, to be honest, the 25 is fine wide open, just not as sharp as the Mk2, better being the enemy of good.

The reality is, my preferred aperture for full frame is T4, where the 40mm is excellent, then at T2.1 it offers a gentler, dreamy sharpness option. In MFT format, T4 is too much depth of field (about T8 FF) and a little slow, so a wider aperture that can be used confidently, like the Mk2’s T1.9 (about T4 equivalent) is better. The Mk1’s 25mm is tempting, but might be a poor saving overall.

In MFT the Hope 25 can provide very sharp and CA free images at T2.1 as well as a warmer image to balance out to cooler GH5s sensor, so I wold basically be buying a wide angle for the full frames, then have a confusing and probably unnecessary choice to make in MFT.

Without it I would not have a full frame wide angle, relying on the MFT 12 Vision, 9mm Pana, or full frame 20-60 S-series etc. I don’t use wides much for video and when I do, AF in MFT format is preferred, so this may be enough anyway (the Vision 12mm is actually really good with insane close focus).

If I assume that my G9II would be the most likely mount for a wide used in “Chivo” style* of super close and intimate, looking for perspective distortion, looking for a too-close feel, the 12mm Vision is perfect and the 9mm Leica provides it with AF. On the GH5s, it is an even stronger effect.

*

If on the other hand I wanted or needed to up that base level, to better support MFT format with more usable sharp wide open speed, go a little wider, have a lens that provides the safety net of even better flare and CA performance, basically no distortion (as a full frame wide), the 24 Vespid MkII ($1700au) is the path.

The MkII’s are more modern optically, often called “mini Arles”, but can be matched to the MkI’s when the older lenses are stopped down.

The 24 is also smaller and lighter, especially compared to the slightly larger than most 25mm.

This of course has the potential to start the whole process again and to be honest, if I had to buy only one set, it would be MkII’s, but I might feel I had missed a trick without a MkI in the fold.

The third option and this is a strange one maybe, is a 28mm F1.4 Typoch Simera, non-C type ($600au), the newer one without that odd locking mechanism, which annoys me when shooting video.

There is breathing and vignetting, but they are optically excellent. I feel the role they would play is much the same as the Vespids, to be the “character” glass,

This would also require two M adapters ($2-500au) and add another mount into the mix, but it would also still be cheaper than the options above and add the same glass with more speed than a Vespid in a smaller size.

A 28mm is not wide, but at this pricing, a 21 or 18 could be added within reason, the whole lot coming in under the Vespid 24’s price.

A hand holdable 28 is very appealing and I am ok with stills lens focus pulling, which has to be balanced with my preferred handling “shape” of the stills lens over a cine lens (backwards to a cine lens).

The head is screaming the 24mm, the heart would settle on the 25, but it’s utility might be limited and my gut is saying stick with what you have. Only the wallet and my perverse sense of running against the tide says Typoch.


*Aka Emmanuel Lubezki the maker of The Revenant.


Just What I Didn't Need, More Choices!

So my friend James loaned me his pair of Typoch Simera (non-C/cinema lenses) for a play. M-Mount on an L-Mount camera, so kind of in the same family.

Lovely Novoflex mount, very tight and clean both sides, a good start. The shots of lens and camera were taken with the Hope 25 on a G9.

Something I did notice right away is my hand held preference for the focus ring at the rear so I can cradle the camera while focussing and the aperture ring well out in front, clearly visible, but out of harms reach (harm being me). This was something I really liked about Olympus OM lenses back in the day.

Cine lenses are all designed the same way and standardised, toothed aperture ring to the back, focus forward but this often makes hand held use a little cack-handed, with the focus ring well forward and the aperture ring out of sight under the camera body and easy to bump (I do it regularly over several series of lenses, so its a thing) and with mechanical lenses, you sometimes don’t realise it has shifted.

With one set of lenses, I often shift aperture instead of the focus ring as they are quite close together and feel similar.

It’s funny how sometimes we react to certain dynamics without realising until an alternative is presented. I had a tendency to go to stills lenses for run-n-gun work, because they gave me aperture feedback and required clicked aperture changes, neither of which are cine lens things. The Panasonic glass can also be electronically set to long-linear throw, which is ideal.

Both cine lenses have their aperture rings to the rear. The Vespid ring in particular is invisible to me while shooting hand held and its focus ring is well forward, which necessitates a handle on the camera for best balance. The S-prime works like a stills lens (with 270 degree linear throw), which is sometimes cleaner and better for me.

I randomly chose the 75 and used my handily arranged Autumn garden studio. Most images are shot at between f1.4 and f2, f4 for the odd deeper depth one (how I would use it for video). No notes taken and a day so forgive the generalisations.

Well, aren’t we the little gem.

Wide open, smooth and sharp.

Even nicer at f4.

The 75 instantly cemented itself with me as a stellar portrait lens.

Next the 28, the lens that to be honest, I would be seriously interested in as a cine option.

A 28 is almost the perfect all-rounder for me and hard to find elsewhere.

A full frame 28 is the widest normal lens I like, one of the reasons I went with the 28-70 Sigma, giving some width with minimal distortion. On APS-c it becomes the true normal, a 42mm, on MFT 1.8x crop it is a 50 and on MFT 2x it is close to 60mm. The M-mount is also a tight, low profile and clean adapter and not too crazily priced.

The 28 is also a bit special.

Sharp wide open even when cropped tight and I will admit, my manual focussing was a bit loose.

Same as above at f4, the perfect bland of snappy sharp and smoothly blurred.

F4 again, fast becoming my favourite full frame aperture (about the same as f1.8-2 in MFT, so no coincidence).

Wide open Bokeh, my focus missed the lock slightly. Very, very gentle looking image, light and bright with a harmonious smoothness, music to a cinematographers ears (or eyes I guess).

It looks and feels nice in this space. Trying to tell me something?

I am torn on what my next move should be.

The Vespid 40mm has been a find, a real find, finally settling my full frame video kit down with a “one lens that is two at 40 & 60mm” and matches or betters my excellent MFT Hope lenses, but where to next?

The Vespid 25mm ($1200au) would fit well and is nicely priced. I have the PL-L-mount adapter, a MFT-PL would then be a logical addition as the 25 would add several needed focal lengths (25/37+45/50). This would also fix my only problem with the S5, which only outputs B-Raw smaller than 5.9k (in C4k) in APS-c format.

The Vespid II 24mm ($1700) on the other hand is only 40% dearer and upgrades the cine lens experience to close to Arles level, so I would have, I guess, a similar lens to the 40mm with a more restrained and refined character and better corrections.

Both of these have to be looked at side by side with the 25 Hope, which for MFT does the same job, so I am actually covered here, making a good argument for sticking to a single Vespid in full frame.

The Typoch Simera-C 28mm ($1300au + $100-280 adapter = $1400-1600) did not appeal mainly because it is a different mount. A series made to be the equal of the Vespid I’s optically, with some benefits (smaller and faster) and minor short comings normal for smaller lenses and their price is actually a little dearer than their Vespid I equivalents.

A 28mm appeals on many levels, but neither of the Vespid series have one.

The Simera 28mm (non-c) are cheaper ($670au + $100-280 for the adapter = $800-950) but the same optics, and as I said above, I actually like their back to front configuration for hand held work.

Focus throw is nothing like a cine lens at 240+ degrees, the longer distances in particular are quite squished, but I have managed before with other stills lenses and these are better than most.

The aperture can be de-clicked, especially helpful when you can actually see it!

Leaning towards nothing right now (maybe a 25/24 Vespid on sale), because the 40mm did what I needed, but thanks again to James for sewing another seed.

The S5 And The Vespid 40mm, A Happy Marriage

I received the Nisi PL-L adapter yesterday, much, much quicker than I was expecting, in days rather than weeks, so my blessed run with the impulse buy of the Vespid has turned out well.

The adapter fits well, slightly loose on the S5II, but most lenses are, snug on the S5 and the Pl mount lock is tight as designed.

It is an odd looking combo, but probably no weirder than the metallic grey/green meets black/orange of a dedicated Nisi Athena lens.

The S5 in B-RAW is 5.9k so biiig files even at 8:1, 19GB eaten up in a couple of minutes of test footage, but wow, I could lift convincing stills from this.

A nice still drawn from some test footage.

Really stands up to it.

Bokeh is pleasant enough, ignorable really.

It allows the sharpness to pop.

Foreground Bokeh is also a creative tool.

This file showed some mild moire around Lucy's whiskers, nothing terrible, but there.

This was an interesting mistake. I was thinking about V-Log while processing, and accidentally applied my Log power grade base to this B-Raw file and did not realise until later. Colour looked good, it graded well and I even played with the colour a little.

Before I get too carried away, this has also come at a time when I have adopted 4-6k B-Raw as my baseline (being reviewed), so I am responding to better processes overall, but regardless, it is a good combination by any standards.

This file exhibited consistent and strong veiling flare across the frame (no hood used), consistent enough that curves could effectively remove it. In the Hope comparison I did, the Hope resisted flare better, but the flare was tougher to remove, being more aggressive and localised.

My gut tells me that the Spectrum 50 on the S5II (both in Log) would be a good match, so my B-cam could be tighter or if matched with the GH5s, the Hope 25 or 50 would also work.

I am not seeing noticeably better performance from the S5 and Vespid over the GH5s and the same lens, which is reassuring and handy. Might still get a PL-MFT adapter, but then I might get another lens and on it goes!

If I were to get another, the Vespid 25 appeals, but so does getting a 24mm in the Mk2 range (for a 24/35, 45/50 combo), just for the other way of doing things, but leaning more into the MFT kit (where the extra speed would be more practical).

This would give me, between the two lenses over multiple formats, a wide establishing lens (24), several semi-wide standards (36/40/43/48), and some short portrait lengths (60/72/80) with speed where I would use it (MFT/wide).

A Surprise Problem Solver.

In my seemingly eternal hunt for the perfect rig, a post by Mark Bone regarding the best placement and angle for a screen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyNUrnVf5SU got me agreeing and ordering something (not what he recommended, but close).

I went with the Smallrig 11” rosette arm, a multi angle arm that can mount on an ARRI point, then allow articulation of a screen to almost any angle. It was bulkier than the one MB uses, but it was available to me and cheap enough to try out.

Complete now with the Nisi Pl-L mount that was given a lead time of 2-3 weeks, then turned into 2 days…… seems I am blessed with this whole process. The adapter cost about as much as I saved on the lens, so free mount I guess.

I was working on perfect angles and placement or even a useful application for the arm, trying to put this accessory to best use, but I gave up on it and was returning to rigging normally. I then remembered an idea I noticed while shopping for the arm, which was to mount it as a handle.

The screen is in the usual spot, front of a handle, but unlike the normal, it is lower and tighter and I have options.

Capable of 3kg capacity, it handles this comfortably.

From here it is no great ordeal to swing it either side, backwards or forwards. The main locking clamp first releases the two heads (the monitor drops, so be careful), then the rosette is released allowing for major angle changes.

The main advantage for a solo shooter is to have a static camera with the screen and go button as close as possible to the holding hand. This is the only combination I have out of a half dozen handles, that allows me to hit go and stop with my thumb.

Easy peasy. I actually did it automatically while testing the lens.

From here I can articulate the arm pretty much anywhere I might need, but what I have found more useful is the ability to activate and reactivate the recorder (BMVA screen) with my thumb.

I finally have a right hand actuation option, that allows my left hand to focus etc without having to leave the lens.

It’s not the most comfortable handle (nor the worst), but it is the most useful and makes the S5 and cage a good core rig for my movement/static B-rig.

From here I can put the handle sideways, angled up, put the screen anywhere within 11”, so lets say, laying on my back with the camera overhead or as a second interview camera, with the screen close enough to see and even control, or have it subject facing or really low, with the screen at knee height.

Even if I use the lowest sitting of my monitor mounts, I cannot get much lower than this and they basically just adjust screen angle.

I may even add one to my big GH5s RigidPro rig, because every other option I have tried has been too tall and bulky, severely limited my packing options. This will retain the needed low profile while adding a handle to help pack and un-pack it. One thing that has vexed me is adding a handle to get it out of the bag that is not so tall, it precludes closing the lid!

The big rig would even leave me with the option of a second handle using an existing Nato rail mount (very low profile until needed), so I could hand hold and use the screen off angle.

Ed. I have two now and they both developed a slight shift on the mount. Nothing terminal, but occasionally annoying.

Video Quality, Real Needs And Perceptions

I have been doing a lot of reading and watching lately, had some concrete ideas that have disintegrated into sand and reform, only to do it again, but within all that, I have noticed some things that, when I chose to listen, have managed to enlighten me.

Basically, I would find myself so often looking to a selected Vlogger to enlighten me as to the minor differences between camera “A” and “B”, then feel gutted that they were getting great results using techniques or gear I had previously rejected.

I started to feel like maybe my priorities were out of whack.

1)

The images I see that I like have little to do with codec, camera, or lens. They are generally contrasty, sharp and realistic, something that was the norm prior to the current regime. What I am saying here is the treatment of the footage seems to be more important than the scaffolding.

2)

Cameras and lenses can look different to each other, which makes us question what we have, try more and buy more, but they can also, more often than not, look the same. Most reviews “normalise” to the point where we are only looking at the most basic level of their output. Yes brand or camera “X” is slightly sharper looking than “Y”, but in the hands of a decent colourist, “Y” may end up looking better or at least the same with a different character. There are too many variables to know from a simple test, the core of the question is way deeper than that.

3)

You need to chase what you want and when you do, when you know what you are actually trying to achieve obsessively and with focus, gear and processing concerns fall away. You the user and maker can mould your tool to work how you need, we always have, it is where innovation comes from, but the habit of letting our tools define us is becoming dominant.

4)

Listing to that little voice that says “I am seeing a lot of this, maybe time to shift direction” or “I am sick of that flat, washed out, overly soft look, so maybe everyone else is?” or “this shallow depth of field thing may have run its race” and change your processes until you like what you do.

5)

The end product will be as good as all the elements involved, dependant on how they are used. Shoot an in camera Rec.709 profile if your skills are up to it, it’s all the same in the end. Many of the greats cut their teeth on low res codecs, which is how they learned to do everything so well.

This is a super sharp image taken with a video lens on a video hybrid camera. Why can’t modern video look snappy and life like?

6)

Read and research less, look and learn more. The grass is not always greener nor the sky bluer elsewhere and even if it is, is more always better?

Basically, fight back, change perceptions evolve and drag the rest of us with you, don’t let analysis paralysis stop you, don’t be a follower, be that person out front catching the un-breathed air.

*

On a practical level, where this post started but quickly got de-railed, I am noticing that often V-Log footage looks as good as RAW, sometimes even a rec.709 codec can, each has it’s place. My desire to expand my B-Raw capabilities has been reduced after some close calls, now looking at V-Log as my norm, B-Raw as my “safety net” and personal indulgence. Two cams RAW capable is plenty.

My recent lens purchase has helped me put some things into perspective. Yes the Vespid 40mm is the best video lens I own, no doubt, but my cheaper or less specialised glass is also pretty close.

The S-Primes, Hope series and others can produce, I just need to get better at it myself. More RAW capable cameras for 3-4 cam interviews would be overkill, because in those controlled situations, even Standard mode could be enough.

Time to reduce, not expand and produce, not prepare.

Time to practice what I just preached.

A Temptation, Or A Reality Check.

I always have a shall (large?, hard to tell anymore), shopping list of “practical things I might need in the future”, which is the boring version of the “things I just want” which the Vespid was on.

One list I obsess over, the other I just collate, ready for the inevitable need to replace.

The OM System 8-25 F4 is on the list, the boring list, as it is a replacement for several lenses, the 8-18, which is fine but has been dropped twice and is a little short as an “all-rounder”, the 12-40 f2.8, still ailing from a trip to a sandy beach, a “lumpy” zoom the result and my 12-60 Leica, that has decided lately to do the “AF shuffle” every time I turn it on, even if AF and stabe are off.

All are working, all do their jobs as expected, all act as backups to the other, but the 8-25 does offer an overlap that possibly reduces the need to carry two lenses and frees up the 8-18 for video duties (or the other way around). An 8-25 and 40-150 has no noticeable gap, an 8-18 and 40-150 do, meaning I often carry a fast prime as a filler as I find 25mm (50mm equivalent) to be the perfect small group portrait lens.

The actual lens is a friends bought mint second hand and he will sell it to me “right” if I take it, otherwise he will list it.

Great performance across the frame, as expected.

Every lens has a “feel” and for me, this lens screams “get in close”, which it does really well.

Close focus is good, but this little guy was so small, it still took some cropping.

It also screams less loudly, “get it all in”.

Flare was interesting, that is to say ugly. I have just been doing stress tests on cine lenses and the only time I got anything like this was an off-angle with a huge matt box ND filter mounted.

Pleasant enough Bokeh, nothing that detracts anyway.

Just to be a little unfair to it, I threw in a Vespid shot from yesterday.

To be honest, I am blown away by this lens, the images it creates and the experience of using it. It surprises me how much it has affected me, I was gearing up for disappointment and possible regret, even returning it, but it has won me over quickly. Making a great stills lens requires a set of criteria are met, but when dealing with genuinely good cinema glass, a more wholistic approach is taken to the only thing that matters, various image qualities.

Timing is a thing. The fact is, this lens sits below the tiny 12-45 f4 on my to get list, even below the auto buy of another 40-150 f2.8 if I need to.

My other list, the one that makes me happier has the DZO Vespid Mk1 25mm on it, a lens to match the 40 as a 25/38 and 45/50 option. The Hope 25 and 50 do its job now and may for ever, but we will see.

Replacing work horse lenses is a business expense, one I am not forced to make right now.

The Vespid is a thing we do it for, a personal choice, not needed, but wanted.

Rushed Test, Because The Light Was Great

After a couple of gloomy and wet days, we had a cracking morning here, well for a while at least.

In the week we were away, autumn has rolled through with a vengeance, the unturned leaves have turned, some trees gone to bare in no time it seems, but plenty to find when it presents.

I grabbed the Vespid, GH5s (hand held, no stabe in a bulky rig, not pretty) and mounted the Neewer 5 stop ND and matt box.

The footage was shot in 4k, Q3, B-Raw, a basic power grade applied then curves adjusted as needed, more to make up for my exposure misses than anything.

I used mostly T4, a little T2.1 for the flare test and ISO 320-800 on the GH5s.

The top leaf is stunningly sharp, but my takeaway is, the whole image looks harmonious and focus was very easy to find.

Some mild flare from off axis sunlight, but still sharp and if I wanted to, it was fully adjustable.

A little dark and as shot, this was subtle and contrasty on screen.

Just a lovely image. In the footage I rolled through from front to back out of focus, the result felt effortless and natural, no obvious breathing, nice Bokeh throughout.

It occurred to me a little later that this would be a good time for a Vespid-Hope comparison.

Same camera, same filter etc, slightly different light and the extra 10mm made handling and focus slightly tougher.

Also very sharp, the duller look may be down to me, not the lens.

Off axis flare on this lens is either absent of there, less of a creative tool than the Vespid.

Ok, not a fair comparison, because the light was harder, but still some gut feelings to go on with.

The Vespid files look more delicate, more open and gentler. Flare was full image area veiling, mostly fixable, but pleasant enough and a tool, not a problem.

The Hope files are less punchy, but again, maybe the harder light and I did apply the same power grade, which may have suited the Vespid more. They are as sharp when the comparison was fair. I found the Hope harder to work with, but I was rushed, it is longer, the light was harder and close focus was also longer.

In fairness to the Vespid though, I had never used it before, so it feeling very natural is a good sign. I was using the GH5s set up for tripod work, not hand holding (my G9II was not rigged for B-Raw), with a cheap slightly loose adapter, but I still found the whole experience pleasant.

The Hope, given a fair chance, is capable of producing quality enough to match Vespid footage. The difference in cameras will likely be more telling. The Hope 25 on the G9II and Vespid as a 40 on my S5 will probably handle similarly, the Neewer filter was excellent except for possibly some nasty purple flare I noticed when shift location on the Hope.

The Vespid is also delicately sharp enough to slot in well with the Sirui anamorphics.

The only way to make any sort of determination about a lens is to use it for a while, so time to do just that.

I also got a chance to shoot some stills with the Vespid on a G9.1. A 6k test I guess. I missed focus a few times, but mostly got what I expected.

Love this lens.

Might get another when the dust settles, probably a 25 (giving me a total range of 25-80 across all formats).

It's Over I Think.

No more street shooting for me, well no obsession for it, maybe just a little as it arises.

Another issue is the mobile phone “shape”, basically changing street photography from capturing life to capturing our screen obsession.

People as more of the scenery are more appealing.

Or just none at all.

Japan Kit, After Action Report

So, what did I actually use on the trip?

It looks like my days of street shooting excitement are over (more on that to come), but I did do some this trip never the less.

My interest has shifted to places people frequent, but sans people it seems. part f this is a consciousness that people are more aware and wary of a middle aged dude with a camera and I am ok with that.

Tokyo is tall and busy, that sums it up decently, tall and busy. Height needs a wide zoom, busy needed some reach to compress and tidy up compositions, the “everyday street corner” habit I developed needed something in the middle, so the 12-60 lit lens did most days.

Harajuku

I did try to use the primes, but unless I needed the speed, the 12-60 kit was plenty. Set to AF, central focus point (notched one box down to catch more, at f5.6. I did not miss many and at that aperture, Bokeh was irrelevant.

Kagurazaka or “little Paris”

The 45 was used in tandem with the 17 one rainy night in Harajuku, then I put both away. The 9mm was never used (no vast temple interiors), the 15 was used a little more and the 40-150 was usually packed just in case, used for about 15% of the files, especially in parks etc. My one day of trying the 15 and 40-150 was a day of lens changes, mind changes and more lens changes.

One slightly faulty EM10.2 did the bulk of the trip.

Tight cropping in Shinjuku

The second one decided to ignore requests for the back screen for viewing only showing the info screen (seems the info button was dead), which on top of its quirks with screen angles (both of them will give me the back screen only at 45 degrees, not at horizontal or vertical), it was just too much to bother with and the Pen Mini was used once, then the lack of a tilt screen and its annoying habit of selecting and shifting exposure comp without me realising, got it shelved.

A little reach in Kanda Jimbocho. This is effectively the length of a block on the 40-150.

Batteries were excellent, shooting over 1700 images over one day with a little over two batts out of four at hand. I used about 40-50gb of card memory spread over several cards for safety.

Koishikawa Korsakuen Garden.

Once I got myself sorted, it all went brilliantly and my day bag, a canvas tote with camera insert, down vest, rain coat and stuff, weighed about 2-3kg all up.

The Vespid Has Arrived, With a New Friend

On our last day in Tokyo, a day of filling in the hours before our over night flight, we decided to revisit the Ueno Market and walk back to our hotel and the airport limousine station in Ningyocho.

I discovered ne of few camera stores, a special one, dedicated to film era gear.

Thanks to a translation device, I managed to avoid a Pen half frame 42 f1.2 with a lazy aperture (fine for stills, just not video) and picked up the 28mm f2.8 AI Nikkor.

The later 8 element AI-S version is a legendary lens, probably the best Nikkor wide of the era, but the 7 element AI version was decent enough to create a legend to better it.

It is mint, as in, like a new one mint, pretty good for a lens that came out when I was seven (a long time ok, don’t be rude). For $135au, I got a lens worth taking a chance on, a reliable classic. I have a cheap Nk > EOS and EOS > MFT adapter (what a mess), so this can be tested before I get an L-mount one as I intend to use it as a 40mm equivalent in the APS-C setting of the S5.

Slightly bigger than the Hope and just noticeably heavier (both are hefty, but the Vespid is the denser feeling lump, the S-Prime feeling like a “fake sampler” lens in comparison.

The Vespid 40mm which came today can also be tried out on an MFT body if I switch it over to EF mount, but I have already ordered a Nisi PL-L adapter (well made, considered a decent match and considerably cheaper than the Vespid one). If it works out, I will get the Nisi PL-MFT also, but the 40/60 combo is the main application I have planned.

Comparing it to my Hope lenses, the 50mm in particular (after I changed the mount to EF), has stirred up some fears to be honest.

What if this legendary lens is no better than my Hope glass?

If it is equal, that would be ok as I have decided to mostly make it a full frame/APS-c companion to those.

This is my Hope 50 at T4 (I missed focus at T2.1), but a preferred aperture anyway. Clean, sharp and still some snap even though the subjects are 4ft away and about 2” apart, staggered. I did match colour on this one as it was originally a little warm-green. Colour matching is probably going to be the biggest issue, the 50 is cooler than the 25 Hope, so a huge difference to the Vespid.

Shot from the same spot and cropped to match the shot above, the Vespid at T4. Colour left alone. I am seeing a slightly less clean, more natural looking file.

Hope on the left, looking cleaner, but that is after being quickly balanced from warmer-murkier.

And even tighter. They seem pretty close in sharpness, so it is a look thing only, which I knew already. On very close inspection, I will give the gong to the Vespid at T4, by a hair, but the Hope at T4 is sharper than the Vespid wide open.

Now the Hope at T4 vs the Vespid at T2.1, mostly to compare sharpness.

And again for sharpness. The Hope has a slight edge, but I knew that the Vespid wide open has a softer character.

When I bought this lens, it was partly because the one I was first interested in became the only one on sale at the right time in my thinking, but also to “scratch that itch”, but I had a mild suspicion it would make little difference in comparison to the excellent S-Primes, Hopes and various other budget cine options I have.

As an example the IRIX 150 macro is excellent, but so is the Spectrum 50 and they are in turn little different to the S-series Panasonic lenses.

So, what have I achieved?

A Hope grade lens for my S5 that has that special something?

The Hope lenses are enough for MFT, saving me (for now) buying an adapter.

A single lens that can be used on all of my cameras (with a $300au mount-I have chosen Nisi PL adapters) with a set of focal lengths that to be honest cover all I use for video. It has a good reputation, especially for a characterful look and one that impresses on sight.

I had a lot of that already, but I also had a need to be sure and felt that fate was guiding me (gets me in trouble some times fate, costs time and money).

Like the BMPCC4k, I knew it would likely not change much, but we will see.

This is the end of the line for my purchases until I have a genuine need for something that will make a definite difference, not a “head worm” compulsion.

That Beautiful Light You Find In Big Cities

Reflected light is something photographers and cinematographers often chase or create.

It adds brilliance that an overcast day removes while retaining a soft and even illumination that direct strong light cannot.

Hibiya

Tokyo is a prime example of the “big” light that many shiny and clean glass buildings can produce on a good day, especially Shinjuku and Hibiya.

Hibiya

Glowing flag poles Hibiya

Shinjuku

Hibiya

Shinjuku, the “melting ice block” building.

Hibiya

Hibiya

I find that it is the most useful of light types, there is always something happening from one direction or another and even the most mundane buildings can take on an other worldly beauty.

Shinjuku, channelling a little “Stephen Shore”.

Shinjuku

Shinjuku

And Just Like That, It's Over.

It has been a while since out last trip to Tokyo, pre-COVID to be precise, so it is to be expected we would miss-remember things, get scales wrong and generally get wonderfully lost as we wind our way, but the things that we discovered, suburbs that blew our minds and the pleasure of discovery through walking cannot be over stated.

My previous memory of Shinjuku consisted of a train stop, emerging outside of a BIC camera (more on that in a moment), a wander under the train bridge to the “crazy” side, then back. It was late in the evening, a cooler time of year and one of our first trips.

This time we came at it from the Harajuku direction, on a brilliant sunny day and the business area, a zone of massive buildings and pristine streets, bisected by the little commercial side streets all Japanese cities need to survive was mind boggling in scale, especially when you take into account it is only a part of a bigger whole.

BIC camera was a slight dissapointlemtn. No Domke bags! I picked up a F3x in olive rugged ware in Tokyo, never have I seen one anywhere else, other limited edition bags also, now it is a dissapointing offer of PD, some Mind Shift and generic Japanese brands.

Day 5 People, People, People

We did the Sunday gauntlet of Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku, back to Harajuku.

Lots of km’s lots of people, lovely day.

Big eye opener was Shinjuku. We had been once before, but came up from the underground late one evening on the “Godzilla” side. The shiny commercial district, which we totally missed was a real eye opener.

Day 4, Best So Far

A long trek today, 15km roughly from the old Jimbocho book district to Tokyo Dome, the
Koishikawa Korakuen gardens there, through the Kagurazaka French quarter then to the Palace, along the exclusive Marunouchi Naka-Dori Ave shopping strip then into Ginza.

The whole day was shot on the EM10.2 and 12-60 (mostly) or 40-150 kit zooms.

Still blows me away there is a whole amusement park in the middle of Tokyo.

Well, Sometimes Things Happen, They Just Do!

I have slowly gone cold on the BMPCC4k idea.

It may happen, but I am leaning towards an all Panasonic family tree, with or without B-Raw.

The camera would provide me with beautiful footage I have no doubt, but it would not necessarily match my other cameras and the G9II really could be upgraded for less, or maybe I will just sit on what I have.

My email feed did tempt me though with something I chose not to resist.

The DZO Vespid 40 T2.1, on special for $920au (only this lens of the set, the one I originally wanted, the “one” lens), so I jumped as I had also been paid by several clients in the same email batch. Basically I have saved enough to pay for an adapter.

The real deal?

This is my 40/60 and 70/80mm on various formats*, basically all my favourite focal lengths for video in one lens with two adapters (I have a cheap EF-MFT adapter, so we will see).

I know the Mk2’s are technically better, but I am not spending $2000au on a lens and I have a need for a smooth-sharp cine lens, nothing sharper as I have sharper, so the older set appeals more.

Crazy?

Probably, but I also tend to go with big fat obvious signs when they are delivered.

What this purchase may do for me is;

  • Put the rest of my lens stable, cine and not into perspective. Try as I might, I cannot find a comparison of the Vespids to cheaper cine lenses like the Spectrum or Hope glass or even the Lumix S-Primes.

  • Give me a format and mount proof investment lens, any mount any brand. “Marry the lens, date the camera (brand)”.

  • Hopefully give me the special something, or not.

Along with the L-mount IRIX 150, I can cover 40-225mm, so if successful, I may look again at the 25mm, or not.

*Fullframe, APS-C, 1.8x MFT, 2x MFT.

Japan Kit

So the actual Japan kit became;

2x EM10.2’s, both with screens that are faulty (will not work flat or horizontal, but ok in between at about 45 degrees).

Usually just one of these in a bag will have the alternate to below, so a 12-60, 40-150, 9 or 45mm.

1x Pen Mini 2 on a shoulder strap with 17mm attached (street grabs).

Nothing extravagant, nothing precious and nothing heavy. Does the job.

First morning and cranes are a thing it seems (all images 45mm).

Multiple building projects, some with as many as eight of these monster cranes.

So much construction going on, always busy, always organised.

The results can be spectacular or at least interesting.

Why I Won't Be Buying "Little White"

“Little White as some have called it, the OM System 50-200 is gorgeous, but I will not be buying one, in fact if I had a need, I would replace what I have now.

I reluctantly looked at a few reviews lately. Side by sides with various lenses, with and without teleconverters, some scientific, some field.

A quick grab of a long time spectator. Could it be any sharper and if so, who would care? EM1x, 40-150 f4.

The general consensus is, yes, it is superb, but so are the 40-150 f2.8 ($1500au new, $1000 s/h), 40-150 f4 ($1100au/ $700 s/h) and 300 f4 ($3800au/$2500au s/h) and yes, I have all of these and they serve me perfectly well.

The reality is, to split them is to split the proverbial hair, so value for money wise, it is a poor direction for me to go. The reality is, a camera upgrade would probably do as much.

Taken today at a NWFL match. Cropped to about half no issue.

My standard process is to shoot with the 300 on one shoulder, a 40-150 (chosen by light) on the other. I will hold to the 300 until the subject is impossibly close, then switch to the shorter lens and 150 is about right to get the subject and their surrounds, both models providing images so sharp, I can crop easily to 1/4 the original for most uses (nobody has ever complained).

Same as above. Most reviewers have found that all of the lenses, with or without teleconverters, even some of the cheaper zooms are all much the same, which is to say excellent and more than enough for most uses.

Hope that the new lens could replace both in one is valid, it could, especially with the matched teleconverter, but can it do a visually better job or be more versatile?

Not really, not enough for me to spend enough to buy an OM-1 and replace my 40-150 f2.8.

I just realised, my last two post were concerning a brilliant new lens I don’t want and a dated old camera I do. We are here folks, gear is now a matter of taste again, not a creeping need.

The Itch To Scratch, The BMPCC4k

So this one will not go away, but I feel that maybe I am being steered this way by a universe intent on me getting it right once and for all.

The Black Magic Pocket Cinema Camera 4k (4k from now) is quite possibly the biggest giver of all the available video options right now.

Big statement in the era of power house cameras.

On release, it did not have B-Raw, but now it does, Resolve did not and it seemed like it never would support ProRes RAW, and now it and the camera both do. This thing just keeps getting better.

It does add several things I do not have while at the same time giving me that third B-Raw capable camera (I like to do interviews with a left, right and wide option).

Even years after release, it is still more than relevant.

I get a real BM screen and interface, a 1080 B-Raw recorder (not an option with HDMI RAW out cameras which are always 4-6k), better BM integration and implementation (ISO, highlight recovery), for a price in the same class as the recorder alone.

The HDMI could then be used for a small screen, like the Portkeys PT6 I have laying around.

Logic would suggest I buy a third BMVA, 12g 5” for $900au, so my third Lumix (the “movement” G9II) is consistent with the others. What puts me off that a little is the price when compared to other options and the reality that apart from consistency and depth, I would not be bringing anything new to the table and possibly messing with my best and cleanest portable camera option. I can use the G9II with a BMVA like any other Lumix, just not with all my other cameras at once.

Same look, same slightly messy dynamic, just dotting an “i” really.

To put this in context, I have been looking for the cinematic “one lens” lately and I have looked at a lot of comparison videos (as you do), trying to decide between lens “a” and lens “q”, but then something hit me.

I was often responding more to the cameras used and how they were applied than the lenses. I have good lenses, great ones even, the camera seemed to make more visible difference, making choosing lenses a nightmare!

examples;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bz02W93nVC0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkXdo1Tqvm4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7O4qMsrPieM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmtjW6gt6Eg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djRfHF-gI54

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k858DITfNMk

Maybe then, the shortest route to a more “cinematic” look for me is the camera, not the lenses and from a practical perspective, what is the point of adding anything if it does not support and expand what I have now?

Reasons to go with the 4k;

  1. I seem to need to scratch that itch, to be able to compare the difference while increasing my offer and not straying far from my B-Raw “patch”. My unanswered question is does adding a dedicated cinema camera and/or a serious cinema lens make a visual difference.

  2. Even if I change my mind, turning it around would lose me maybe $400, so less perilous than a bad lens choice.

  3. For only $300au more than a BMVA 7”, I get a 5” BMVA with a camera built in, no clutter or excess cabling outside of choices I make. It also has an mini XLR audio in and I am going to assume less fan noise, so a mini 7” by default.

  4. A new camera also frees up the G9II for stills work, so an upgrade in that space.

  5. I can even run it with a BMVA for backup or my little PT6 screen.

  6. B-Raw is better realised in a dedicated BM camera, especially ISO control and highlight recovery.

  7. It brings all my cameras into line with each other (3x B-Raw capable models).

  8. I would have a ProRes RAW capable camera.

  9. It can operate without clutter unlike a Lumix+BMVA.

  10. I have the infrastructure, lots of battery, screen and rigging bits to draw from. All I need is a D-tap cable for a V-Mount.

  11. The camera may well upgrade all my lenses, while a lens (for similar money), may not make a huge difference.

  12. No latency, an issue with Pana cams running out via HDMI.

  13. It would be the first camera I have bought since my Pen-F that would be for me as much as my business needs.

  14. App support.

  15. Complete power needs can be supplied from mains via one cable.

  16. It will make me a better film maker, i.e everything will be harder for better results, which is good.

But…………..

For $2500au (i.e $1000 more), I could go into a GH7.

The issues are of course, basically a lone wolf, capable of ProRes RAW with an expensive CF Xpress-B card, which is again not a compatible codec with anything else I have, the option of ARRI Log as a paid option (same issues as previous), the same V-Log, AF, Stabe and RAW-out of the G9II.

It is a power house camera no doubt, but does it bring to me anything other than new complications? If I could only have one camera, this would be it, but the thing is I have other cameras.

A $2000au G9II body would do the same in this case and the difference would mostly pay the needed BMVA 5”.

Back to the BMPCC4k, as it provides all of these benefits, without the issues or extra costs and what it does not do exceptionally (stabe, AF), I do not actually need as I already have other options.

Ok, curve ball time.

The BM Micro G2 studio camera.

A tiny, more battery friendly, live streaming capable BMPCC4k variant. It needs a screen (I have one and the menu to generic screens is ok, just different to the BMVA’s), but a Pyxis screen gives you full BM interface on a compact 5” screen for less than a 3G recorder.

So, dearer than the BMPCC4k, or is it?

The 4k needs to be attached to a battery option (only 20-30mins with the internal), which means a V-Mount/NP plate, or the grip for 2x NP 570’s. Life is then 2-5hrs depending on which, but assumes the already wide camera can also go deep and heavy.

The fixed screen is also a problem as the likely battery placement would be behind (not buying anything else), so the screen would be partially obscured or you get the grip and end up with a monster SLR configuration.

The G2 is one of the smallest of the box cameras, smaller than a BGH1, with a light weight screen on top, a big battery conforming to the back plate of the camera and a cage (lots around) if needed.

If I want a (1) third static B-Raw capable camera, (2) something smaller and lighter (3) possible streaming option (my BMVA 12 can also, making a network) this might be it. It is not perfect, it has different needs to the 4k, not better or worse, just different.

The bare cost is basically the same as the 4k, needed accessories ranging from $0-600*, but the 4k could cost me nothing more than the camera, maybe a half cage, work arounds are assumed.

If I bought the G2 only, I would be rigging it out with a Portkeys PT6 screen, V-Mount plate, some type of handle (various) and end up with a smaller and lighter cam than the 4k with a thin shape and fix the battery blocking the screen issue.

The 4k on its own is fine, the NP and V-Mount battery options could be reserved for static use (several LP-E6’s are cheap enough), the screen is integrated, so a wide but optionally shallow camera. With the grip, I could use my many small NP batteries for something useful.

In static use, it makes little difference, the difference is in handling and that is really a Lumix speciality anyway.

*The norm is a cage and Pyxis screen, but the reality is I have everything.







Possibly A Reason Why Current Photos Are Less Satisfying

If you take time to look at the work of past photographers and cinematographers, people just like us, who were slaves to technical limitations and the trends of the time, something becomes evident and it may help to explain why modern “big hit” images and scenes have little lasting power. Images made with the simple majesty of Stephen Shore http://stephenshore.net/photographs.php , or Michael Kenna https://www.michaelkenna.com , the story telling of Sam Abel https://samabell.com/new-index/ quirky humour of Martin Parr https://martinparr.com , emotive and tragically beautiful Salgado https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/sebastião-salgado , timeless Saul Leiter https://www.saulleiterfoundation.org and meditative Harry Gruyaert do https://www.harrygruyaert-film.com .

That missing thing is the use of deeper depth of field.

The subject of this image would be ok I guess if cut out from a blurry background, but context would be lost for no benefit.

Not that more depth of field equals better images by definition, but in this highly ironic time of not needing wide apertures any more, but seeming to be addicted to them, many have fallen back on the sharp-soft look as a visual crutch.

Many images need only sharpness from front to back, selective blurring would do nothing but confuse the visual clarity of the image.

Some images need deep depth of field by definition, like landscapes or architectural, because the subject is the environment, it’s all important, but sometimes nothing can become something, simply by seeing that potential.

Stephen Shore is probably one of the best examples of seeing the ordinary without the needed main subject. His images do not have a hero, they are anchored by colour or shape, sometimes relevance to place. The stage is the hero, not the actor.

From a series of Japanese street corners, a project that needs attending.

Two faces are important in theis shot, one near, one far. neither would hold as much interest on their own.

Sharp front to back is an important tool becasue even though our own eyes have immense depth of field, we only focus on what we look specifically at, but in a still image, that attention can wander.

Every element of the image must serve to impart information or support the information provided.

Depth of field does not have to be perfectly sharp, just coherent enough to show shape and help form a story. The main gesticulating in the background is the subject, every other element draws you there, but not immediately.

Depth allows for multiple shapes to emerge and allow all things to have their place.

One of the reasons deep depth images are used less, is because they are often hard to get right.

You have to balance all the elements, even be a little lucky sometimes. Colourists need to balance the eye catching elements like reds and yelloews, mono shooters have to balance tones and textures on a “flatter” palette.

First you see red, then the individuals become evident, lastly (to me) blue and yellow play a part.

When the very front and far distance are equal in all areas, the image sits harmoniously, it breathes and relaxes.

The secret of course is comprehension. There is more to see, more to explore, more to reveal as you look, it is not a sugar hit of beauty, something we grasp instantaneously, then file away and move on from, it is layered, complicated (even if it is simple) and it puts us in its moment.

Like many images in this post, this was taken with the 17mm f1.8. Unlike most of the others, this one was shot wide open in “available gloom”. A very special feature of this lens is its ability to hero a focus point, while including the whole of the image for context, sometimes even wide open (focus was on the man in the white shirt and suit jacket).

“Reservoir Dogs” Osaka, an image with a dozen stories, shallow depth of field only reducing their effect.

If an image has a hero element, the temptation is the exaggerate that, but sometimes the strength of the main player is increased in context.

A lone subject front and centre, active and red and white even for impact, but there is more to see.

Cut away cleanly, this mans story is one of quiet loneliness. With a supporting cast of detached, searching people, his place in the tableau shifts to one of calm, like a rock in a stream.

Following lines, literal and of the eye, with a cinematic brilliance. Seemingly infinite depth of field is often a benefit, not a curse.

If there is a sharp to soft transition, it does not have to be fast or dramatic. The eye can see many ways, but lens tricks that defy then only draw attention to themselves.

No single face here is compelling on its own, but with depth four different stories are told.

As I continue my journey in this craft, some things are becoming ever more strongly evident.

I like naturalness and seek invisibility in my image making.

This means normal focal length lenses from 28 to 90mm (ffe), because I am really growing to dislike photographic tricks such as over use of shallow depth of field (it’s not Bokeh, just an exaggerated form of it), image flatness and compression, wide angle distortion, poor technique resulting in motion blur passed of as “art” and compositional laziness.

One of the things that strikes me about the work of many of the greats of documentary, street and real life photography is their images are devoid of obvious process, of technical constraint.

They are the result of their camera capturing what they saw so your eyes can see the same thing.

This is not creative interpretation, it is literal interpretation, something only photography can do.

I am very glad I have found this clarity of vision on the eve of another trip to Tokyo. Part of it came from thinking about gear, which led to images made and eventually to here.

I work as a photographer, which it seems may have put my personal processes in peril. My need to get the image at any reasonable cost has to be discarded when I am away, my love of story telling depth re-embraced.

Perfect timing.

Japan Kit Sorted!

Had a thought the other night, one of those lying in bed late at night (early morning) thinking too hard about things that do not matter. I was distracting myself with better things, trips away and time off.

Japan, what to do?

When I last travelled and enjoyed the experience photographically, what did I do?

Melbourne, two years ago, Pen Mini, 17mm lens. Sooo many pictures, total freedom, light and fast, I remember only deciding to take anything at all at the last minute, but was so glad I did.

It was like the early Japan trips, an EM5, the 17 or the 45, simple.

I intend to take, and I am already packing then because I don't use these for anything else much, both Pen Mini 2’s and an EM10.2, four batteries, the 9, 15, 17, 45, 12-60 kit and 40-150 kit.

All three have quick release strap lugs and I have a selection of straps to use.

The first Pen Mini (the black one) will have the 17 on as my “from the hip” shooter. This will basically be there all the time, manually focussed to about 5ft, aperture set to 1.8~4 depending on light. I will take the 15mm also for a lighter and brighter rendering when needed on dull days.

The second Pen Mini (the red one) will have either the 12-60, 15 or 9mm on as needed. This will be the hand cam, the alternate and in some ways the spare. I will use central cluster with face detect AF with this one.

The EM10.2, ailing slightly with a screen that only works when slightly raised, will be the “eye” camera with a long lens, either the 45 for lower light, or the 40-150 kit for range.

This will have spot AF set, for fast and precise eye focus, my preferred way of shooting with longer lenses.

Love the sharp subject and coherent background of the 17mm.

The whole lot, three cameras and 6 lenses, will weigh about the same as an EM1x and 12-40.

Every image in this set was taken with an older and often “lesser” camera. I like the older 16mp sensor and trust the cameras to do what they respectively will be assigned to. The Pen Mini’s I have found are ideal for street, the custom options aligning perfectly with my needs.

Depth, speed, small and ignorable form factor, variety and clean application with low preciousness.

The reality is, many of my favourite Japan images were taken with just these cameras and lenses or similar.

The lot will go over in my least favourite, but useful to put your feet on bag the Lowe Pro ProTactic 350 (old model), also handy to bring back delicate pottery and takes a lap top. the M1 Mac Air laptop will weight more than the kit.

When there I will use a yellow canvas shoulder bag with camera insert that I bought in Himeji last trip.