Japan Kit, After Action Report

So, what did I actually use on the trip?

It looks like my days of street shooting excitement are over (more on that to come), but I did do some this trip never the less.

My interest has shifted to places people frequent, but sans people it seems. part f this is a consciousness that people are more aware and wary of a middle aged dude with a camera and I am ok with that.

Tokyo is tall and busy, that sums it up decently, tall and busy. Height needs a wide zoom, busy needed some reach to compress and tidy up compositions, the “everyday street corner” habit I developed needed something in the middle, so the 12-60 lit lens did most days.

Harajuku

I did try to use the primes, but unless I needed the speed, the 12-60 kit was plenty. Set to AF, central focus point (notched one box down to catch more, at f5.6. I did not miss many and at that aperture, Bokeh was irrelevant.

Kagurazaka or “little Paris”

The 45 was used in tandem with the 17 one rainy night in Harajuku, then I put both away. The 9mm was never used (no vast temple interiors), the 15 was used a little more and the 40-150 was usually packed just in case, used for about 15% of the files, especially in parks etc. My one day of trying the 15 and 40-150 was a day of lens changes, mind changes and more lens changes.

One slightly faulty EM10.2 did the bulk of the trip.

Tight cropping in Shinjuku

The second one decided to ignore requests for the back screen for viewing only showing the info screen (seems the info button was dead), which on top of its quirks with screen angles (both of them will give me the back screen only at 45 degrees, not at horizontal or vertical), it was just too much to bother with and the Pen Mini was used once, then the lack of a tilt screen and its annoying habit of selecting and shifting exposure comp without me realising, got it shelved.

A little reach in Kanda Jimbocho. This is effectively the length of a block on the 40-150.

Batteries were excellent, shooting over 1700 images over one day with a little over two batts out of four at hand. I used about 40-50gb of card memory spread over several cards for safety.

Koishikawa Korsakuen Garden.

Once I got myself sorted, it all went brilliantly and my day bag, a canvas tote with camera insert, down vest, rain coat and stuff, weighed about 2-3kg all up.

The Vespid Has Arrived, With a New Friend

On our last day in Tokyo, a day of filling in the hours before our over night flight, we decided to revisit the Ueno Market and walk back to our hotel and the airport limousine station in Ningyocho.

I discovered ne of few camera stores, a special one, dedicated to film era gear.

Thanks to a translation device, I managed to avoid a Pen half frame 42 f1.2 with a lazy aperture (fine for stills, just not video) and picked up the 28mm f2.8 AI Nikkor.

The later 8 element AI-S version is a legendary lens, probably the best Nikkor wide of the era, but the 7 element AI version was decent enough to create a legend to better it.

It is mint, as in, like a new one mint, pretty good for a lens that came out when I was seven (a long time ok, don’t be rude). For $135au, I got a lens worth taking a chance on, a reliable classic. I have a cheap Nk > EOS and EOS > MFT adapter (what a mess), so this can be tested before I get an L-mount one as I intend to use it as a 40mm equivalent in the APS-C setting of the S5.

Slightly bigger than the Hope and just noticeably heavier (both are hefty, but the Vespid is the denser feeling lump, the S-Prime feeling like a “fake sampler” lens in comparison.

The Vespid 40mm which came today can also be tried out on an MFT body if I switch it over to EF mount, but I have already ordered a Nisi PL-L adapter (well made, considered a decent match and considerably cheaper than the Vespid one). If it works out, I will get the Nisi PL-MFT also, but the 40/60 combo is the main application I have planned.

Comparing it to my Hope lenses, the 50mm in particular (after I changed the mount to EF), has stirred up some fears to be honest.

What if this legendary lens is no better than my Hope glass?

If it is equal, that would be ok as I have decided to mostly make it a full frame/APS-c companion to those.

This is my Hope 50 at T4 (I missed focus at T2.1), but a preferred aperture anyway. Clean, sharp and still some snap even though the subjects are 4ft away and about 2” apart, staggered. I did match colour on this one as it was originally a little warm-green. Colour matching is probably going to be the biggest issue, the 50 is cooler than the 25 Hope, so a huge difference to the Vespid.

Shot from the same spot and cropped to match the shot above, the Vespid at T4. Colour left alone. I am seeing a slightly less clean, more natural looking file.

Hope on the left, looking cleaner, but that is after being quickly balanced from warmer-murkier.

And even tighter. They seem pretty close in sharpness, so it is a look thing only, which I knew already. On very close inspection, I will give the gong to the Vespid at T4, by a hair, but the Hope at T4 is sharper than the Vespid wide open.

Now the Hope at T4 vs the Vespid at T2.1, mostly to compare sharpness.

And again for sharpness. The Hope has a slight edge, but I knew that the Vespid wide open has a softer character.

When I bought this lens, it was partly because the one I was first interested in became the only one on sale at the right time in my thinking, but also to “scratch that itch”, but I had a mild suspicion it would make little difference in comparison to the excellent S-Primes, Hopes and various other budget cine options I have.

As an example the IRIX 150 macro is excellent, but so is the Spectrum 50 and they are in turn little different to the S-series Panasonic lenses.

So, what have I achieved?

A Hope grade lens for my S5 that has that special something?

The Hope lenses are enough for MFT, saving me (for now) buying an adapter.

A single lens that can be used on all of my cameras (with a $300au mount-I have chosen Nisi PL adapters) with a set of focal lengths that to be honest cover all I use for video. It has a good reputation, especially for a characterful look and one that impresses on sight.

I had a lot of that already, but I also had a need to be sure and felt that fate was guiding me (gets me in trouble some times fate, costs time and money).

Like the BMPCC4k, I knew it would likely not change much, but we will see.

This is the end of the line for my purchases until I have a genuine need for something that will make a definite difference, not a “head worm” compulsion.

That Beautiful Light You Find In Big Cities

Reflected light is something photographers and cinematographers often chase or create.

It adds brilliance that an overcast day removes while retaining a soft and even illumination that direct strong light cannot.

Hibiya

Tokyo is a prime example of the “big” light that many shiny and clean glass buildings can produce on a good day, especially Shinjuku and Hibiya.

Hibiya

Glowing flag poles Hibiya

Shinjuku

Hibiya

Shinjuku, the “melting ice block” building.

Hibiya

Hibiya

I find that it is the most useful of light types, there is always something happening from one direction or another and even the most mundane buildings can take on an other worldly beauty.

Shinjuku, channelling a little “Stephen Shore”.

Shinjuku

Shinjuku

And Just Like That, It's Over.

It has been a while since out last trip to Tokyo, pre-COVID to be precise, so it is to be expected we would miss-remember things, get scales wrong and generally get wonderfully lost as we wind our way, but the things that we discovered, suburbs that blew our minds and the pleasure of discovery through walking cannot be over stated.

My previous memory of Shinjuku consisted of a train stop, emerging outside of a BIC camera (more on that in a moment), a wander under the train bridge to the “crazy” side, then back. It was late in the evening, a cooler time of year and one of our first trips.

This time we came at it from the Harajuku direction, on a brilliant sunny day and the business area, a zone of massive buildings and pristine streets, bisected by the little commercial side streets all Japanese cities need to survive was mind boggling in scale, especially when you take into account it is only a part of a bigger whole.

BIC camera was a slight dissapointlemtn. No Domke bags! I picked up a F3x in olive rugged ware in Tokyo, never have I seen one anywhere else, other limited edition bags also, now it is a dissapointing offer of PD, some Mind Shift and generic Japanese brands.

Day 5 People, People, People

We did the Sunday gauntlet of Shibuya, Harajuku, Shinjuku, back to Harajuku.

Lots of km’s lots of people, lovely day.

Big eye opener was Shinjuku. We had been once before, but came up from the underground late one evening on the “Godzilla” side. The shiny commercial district, which we totally missed was a real eye opener.

Day 4, Best So Far

A long trek today, 15km roughly from the old Jimbocho book district to Tokyo Dome, the
Koishikawa Korakuen gardens there, through the Kagurazaka French quarter then to the Palace, along the exclusive Marunouchi Naka-Dori Ave shopping strip then into Ginza.

The whole day was shot on the EM10.2 and 12-60 (mostly) or 40-150 kit zooms.

Still blows me away there is a whole amusement park in the middle of Tokyo.

Well, Sometimes Things Happen, They Just Do!

I have slowly gone cold on the BMPCC4k idea.

It may happen, but I am leaning towards an all Panasonic family tree, with or without B-Raw.

The camera would provide me with beautiful footage I have no doubt, but it would not necessarily match my other cameras and the G9II really could be upgraded for less, or maybe I will just sit on what I have.

My email feed did tempt me though with something I chose not to resist.

The DZO Vespid 40 T2.1, on special for $920au (only this lens of the set, the one I originally wanted, the “one” lens), so I jumped as I had also been paid by several clients in the same email batch. Basically I have saved enough to pay for an adapter.

The real deal?

This is my 40/60 and 70/80mm on various formats*, basically all my favourite focal lengths for video in one lens with two adapters (I have a cheap EF-MFT adapter, so we will see).

I know the Mk2’s are technically better, but I am not spending $2000au on a lens and I have a need for a smooth-sharp cine lens, nothing sharper as I have sharper, so the older set appeals more.

Crazy?

Probably, but I also tend to go with big fat obvious signs when they are delivered.

What this purchase may do for me is;

  • Put the rest of my lens stable, cine and not into perspective. Try as I might, I cannot find a comparison of the Vespids to cheaper cine lenses like the Spectrum or Hope glass or even the Lumix S-Primes.

  • Give me a format and mount proof investment lens, any mount any brand. “Marry the lens, date the camera (brand)”.

  • Hopefully give me the special something, or not.

Along with the L-mount IRIX 150, I can cover 40-225mm, so if successful, I may look again at the 25mm, or not.

*Fullframe, APS-C, 1.8x MFT, 2x MFT.

Japan Kit

So the actual Japan kit became;

2x EM10.2’s, both with screens that are faulty (will not work flat or horizontal, but ok in between at about 45 degrees).

Usually just one of these in a bag will have the alternate to below, so a 12-60, 40-150, 9 or 45mm.

1x Pen Mini 2 on a shoulder strap with 17mm attached (street grabs).

Nothing extravagant, nothing precious and nothing heavy. Does the job.

First morning and cranes are a thing it seems (all images 45mm).

Multiple building projects, some with as many as eight of these monster cranes.

So much construction going on, always busy, always organised.

The results can be spectacular or at least interesting.

Why I Won't Be Buying "Little White"

“Little White as some have called it, the OM System 50-200 is gorgeous, but I will not be buying one, in fact if I had a need, I would replace what I have now.

I reluctantly looked at a few reviews lately. Side by sides with various lenses, with and without teleconverters, some scientific, some field.

A quick grab of a long time spectator. Could it be any sharper and if so, who would care? EM1x, 40-150 f4.

The general consensus is, yes, it is superb, but so are the 40-150 f2.8 ($1500au new, $1000 s/h), 40-150 f4 ($1100au/ $700 s/h) and 300 f4 ($3800au/$2500au s/h) and yes, I have all of these and they serve me perfectly well.

The reality is, to split them is to split the proverbial hair, so value for money wise, it is a poor direction for me to go. The reality is, a camera upgrade would probably do as much.

Taken today at a NWFL match. Cropped to about half no issue.

My standard process is to shoot with the 300 on one shoulder, a 40-150 (chosen by light) on the other. I will hold to the 300 until the subject is impossibly close, then switch to the shorter lens and 150 is about right to get the subject and their surrounds, both models providing images so sharp, I can crop easily to 1/4 the original for most uses (nobody has ever complained).

Same as above. Most reviewers have found that all of the lenses, with or without teleconverters, even some of the cheaper zooms are all much the same, which is to say excellent and more than enough for most uses.

Hope that the new lens could replace both in one is valid, it could, especially with the matched teleconverter, but can it do a visually better job or be more versatile?

Not really, not enough for me to spend enough to buy an OM-1 and replace my 40-150 f2.8.

I just realised, my last two post were concerning a brilliant new lens I don’t want and a dated old camera I do. We are here folks, gear is now a matter of taste again, not a creeping need.

The Itch To Scratch, The BMPCC4k

So this one will not go away, but I feel that maybe I am being steered this way by a universe intent on me getting it right once and for all.

The Black Magic Pocket Cinema Camera 4k (4k from now) is quite possibly the biggest giver of all the available video options right now.

Big statement in the era of power house cameras.

On release, it did not have B-Raw, but now it does, Resolve did not and it seemed like it never would support ProRes RAW, and now it and the camera both do. This thing just keeps getting better.

It does add several things I do not have while at the same time giving me that third B-Raw capable camera (I like to do interviews with a left, right and wide option).

Even years after release, it is still more than relevant.

I get a real BM screen and interface, a 1080 B-Raw recorder (not an option with HDMI RAW out cameras which are always 4-6k), better BM integration and implementation (ISO, highlight recovery), for a price in the same class as the recorder alone.

The HDMI could then be used for a small screen, like the Portkeys PT6 I have laying around.

Logic would suggest I buy a third BMVA, 12g 5” for $900au, so my third Lumix (the “movement” G9II) is consistent with the others. What puts me off that a little is the price when compared to other options and the reality that apart from consistency and depth, I would not be bringing anything new to the table and possibly messing with my best and cleanest portable camera option. I can use the G9II with a BMVA like any other Lumix, just not with all my other cameras at once.

Same look, same slightly messy dynamic, just dotting an “i” really.

To put this in context, I have been looking for the cinematic “one lens” lately and I have looked at a lot of comparison videos (as you do), trying to decide between lens “a” and lens “q”, but then something hit me.

I was often responding more to the cameras used and how they were applied than the lenses. I have good lenses, great ones even, the camera seemed to make more visible difference, making choosing lenses a nightmare!

examples;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bz02W93nVC0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkXdo1Tqvm4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7O4qMsrPieM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmtjW6gt6Eg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djRfHF-gI54

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k858DITfNMk

Maybe then, the shortest route to a more “cinematic” look for me is the camera, not the lenses and from a practical perspective, what is the point of adding anything if it does not support and expand what I have now?

Reasons to go with the 4k;

  1. I seem to need to scratch that itch, to be able to compare the difference while increasing my offer and not straying far from my B-Raw “patch”. My unanswered question is does adding a dedicated cinema camera and/or a serious cinema lens make a visual difference.

  2. Even if I change my mind, turning it around would lose me maybe $400, so less perilous than a bad lens choice.

  3. For only $300au more than a BMVA 7”, I get a 5” BMVA with a camera built in, no clutter or excess cabling outside of choices I make. It also has an mini XLR audio in and I am going to assume less fan noise, so a mini 7” by default.

  4. A new camera also frees up the G9II for stills work, so an upgrade in that space.

  5. I can even run it with a BMVA for backup or my little PT6 screen.

  6. B-Raw is better realised in a dedicated BM camera, especially ISO control and highlight recovery.

  7. It brings all my cameras into line with each other (3x B-Raw capable models).

  8. I would have a ProRes RAW capable camera.

  9. It can operate without clutter unlike a Lumix+BMVA.

  10. I have the infrastructure, lots of battery, screen and rigging bits to draw from. All I need is a D-tap cable for a V-Mount.

  11. The camera may well upgrade all my lenses, while a lens (for similar money), may not make a huge difference.

  12. No latency, an issue with Pana cams running out via HDMI.

  13. It would be the first camera I have bought since my Pen-F that would be for me as much as my business needs.

  14. App support.

  15. Complete power needs can be supplied from mains via one cable.

  16. It will make me a better film maker, i.e everything will be harder for better results, which is good.

But…………..

For $2500au (i.e $1000 more), I could go into a GH7.

The issues are of course, basically a lone wolf, capable of ProRes RAW with an expensive CF Xpress-B card, which is again not a compatible codec with anything else I have, the option of ARRI Log as a paid option (same issues as previous), the same V-Log, AF, Stabe and RAW-out of the G9II.

It is a power house camera no doubt, but does it bring to me anything other than new complications? If I could only have one camera, this would be it, but the thing is I have other cameras.

A $2000au G9II body would do the same in this case and the difference would mostly pay the needed BMVA 5”.

Back to the BMPCC4k, as it provides all of these benefits, without the issues or extra costs and what it does not do exceptionally (stabe, AF), I do not actually need as I already have other options.

Ok, curve ball time.

The BM Micro G2 studio camera.

A tiny, more battery friendly, live streaming capable BMPCC4k variant. It needs a screen (I have one and the menu to generic screens is ok, just different to the BMVA’s), but a Pyxis screen gives you full BM interface on a compact 5” screen for less than a 3G recorder.

So, dearer than the BMPCC4k, or is it?

The 4k needs to be attached to a battery option (only 20-30mins with the internal), which means a V-Mount/NP plate, or the grip for 2x NP 570’s. Life is then 2-5hrs depending on which, but assumes the already wide camera can also go deep and heavy.

The fixed screen is also a problem as the likely battery placement would be behind (not buying anything else), so the screen would be partially obscured or you get the grip and end up with a monster SLR configuration.

The G2 is one of the smallest of the box cameras, smaller than a BGH1, with a light weight screen on top, a big battery conforming to the back plate of the camera and a cage (lots around) if needed.

If I want a (1) third static B-Raw capable camera, (2) something smaller and lighter (3) possible streaming option (my BMVA 12 can also, making a network) this might be it. It is not perfect, it has different needs to the 4k, not better or worse, just different.

The bare cost is basically the same as the 4k, needed accessories ranging from $0-600*, but the 4k could cost me nothing more than the camera, maybe a half cage, work arounds are assumed.

If I bought the G2 only, I would be rigging it out with a Portkeys PT6 screen, V-Mount plate, some type of handle (various) and end up with a smaller and lighter cam than the 4k with a thin shape and fix the battery blocking the screen issue.

The 4k on its own is fine, the NP and V-Mount battery options could be reserved for static use (several LP-E6’s are cheap enough), the screen is integrated, so a wide but optionally shallow camera. With the grip, I could use my many small NP batteries for something useful.

In static use, it makes little difference, the difference is in handling and that is really a Lumix speciality anyway.

*The norm is a cage and Pyxis screen, but the reality is I have everything.







Possibly A Reason Why Current Photos Are Less Satisfying

If you take time to look at the work of past photographers and cinematographers, people just like us, who were slaves to technical limitations and the trends of the time, something becomes evident and it may help to explain why modern “big hit” images and scenes have little lasting power. Images made with the simple majesty of Stephen Shore http://stephenshore.net/photographs.php , or Michael Kenna https://www.michaelkenna.com , the story telling of Sam Abel https://samabell.com/new-index/ quirky humour of Martin Parr https://martinparr.com , emotive and tragically beautiful Salgado https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/sebastião-salgado , timeless Saul Leiter https://www.saulleiterfoundation.org and meditative Harry Gruyaert do https://www.harrygruyaert-film.com .

That missing thing is the use of deeper depth of field.

The subject of this image would be ok I guess if cut out from a blurry background, but context would be lost for no benefit.

Not that more depth of field equals better images by definition, but in this highly ironic time of not needing wide apertures any more, but seeming to be addicted to them, many have fallen back on the sharp-soft look as a visual crutch.

Many images need only sharpness from front to back, selective blurring would do nothing but confuse the visual clarity of the image.

Some images need deep depth of field by definition, like landscapes or architectural, because the subject is the environment, it’s all important, but sometimes nothing can become something, simply by seeing that potential.

Stephen Shore is probably one of the best examples of seeing the ordinary without the needed main subject. His images do not have a hero, they are anchored by colour or shape, sometimes relevance to place. The stage is the hero, not the actor.

From a series of Japanese street corners, a project that needs attending.

Two faces are important in theis shot, one near, one far. neither would hold as much interest on their own.

Sharp front to back is an important tool becasue even though our own eyes have immense depth of field, we only focus on what we look specifically at, but in a still image, that attention can wander.

Every element of the image must serve to impart information or support the information provided.

Depth of field does not have to be perfectly sharp, just coherent enough to show shape and help form a story. The main gesticulating in the background is the subject, every other element draws you there, but not immediately.

Depth allows for multiple shapes to emerge and allow all things to have their place.

One of the reasons deep depth images are used less, is because they are often hard to get right.

You have to balance all the elements, even be a little lucky sometimes. Colourists need to balance the eye catching elements like reds and yelloews, mono shooters have to balance tones and textures on a “flatter” palette.

First you see red, then the individuals become evident, lastly (to me) blue and yellow play a part.

When the very front and far distance are equal in all areas, the image sits harmoniously, it breathes and relaxes.

The secret of course is comprehension. There is more to see, more to explore, more to reveal as you look, it is not a sugar hit of beauty, something we grasp instantaneously, then file away and move on from, it is layered, complicated (even if it is simple) and it puts us in its moment.

Like many images in this post, this was taken with the 17mm f1.8. Unlike most of the others, this one was shot wide open in “available gloom”. A very special feature of this lens is its ability to hero a focus point, while including the whole of the image for context, sometimes even wide open (focus was on the man in the white shirt and suit jacket).

“Reservoir Dogs” Osaka, an image with a dozen stories, shallow depth of field only reducing their effect.

If an image has a hero element, the temptation is the exaggerate that, but sometimes the strength of the main player is increased in context.

A lone subject front and centre, active and red and white even for impact, but there is more to see.

Cut away cleanly, this mans story is one of quiet loneliness. With a supporting cast of detached, searching people, his place in the tableau shifts to one of calm, like a rock in a stream.

Following lines, literal and of the eye, with a cinematic brilliance. Seemingly infinite depth of field is often a benefit, not a curse.

If there is a sharp to soft transition, it does not have to be fast or dramatic. The eye can see many ways, but lens tricks that defy then only draw attention to themselves.

No single face here is compelling on its own, but with depth four different stories are told.

As I continue my journey in this craft, some things are becoming ever more strongly evident.

I like naturalness and seek invisibility in my image making.

This means normal focal length lenses from 28 to 90mm (ffe), because I am really growing to dislike photographic tricks such as over use of shallow depth of field (it’s not Bokeh, just an exaggerated form of it), image flatness and compression, wide angle distortion, poor technique resulting in motion blur passed of as “art” and compositional laziness.

One of the things that strikes me about the work of many of the greats of documentary, street and real life photography is their images are devoid of obvious process, of technical constraint.

They are the result of their camera capturing what they saw so your eyes can see the same thing.

This is not creative interpretation, it is literal interpretation, something only photography can do.

I am very glad I have found this clarity of vision on the eve of another trip to Tokyo. Part of it came from thinking about gear, which led to images made and eventually to here.

I work as a photographer, which it seems may have put my personal processes in peril. My need to get the image at any reasonable cost has to be discarded when I am away, my love of story telling depth re-embraced.

Perfect timing.

Japan Kit Sorted!

Had a thought the other night, one of those lying in bed late at night (early morning) thinking too hard about things that do not matter. I was distracting myself with better things, trips away and time off.

Japan, what to do?

When I last travelled and enjoyed the experience photographically, what did I do?

Melbourne, two years ago, Pen Mini, 17mm lens. Sooo many pictures, total freedom, light and fast, I remember only deciding to take anything at all at the last minute, but was so glad I did.

It was like the early Japan trips, an EM5, the 17 or the 45, simple.

I intend to take, and I am already packing then because I don't use these for anything else much, both Pen Mini 2’s and an EM10.2, four batteries, the 9, 15, 17, 45, 12-60 kit and 40-150 kit.

All three have quick release strap lugs and I have a selection of straps to use.

The first Pen Mini (the black one) will have the 17 on as my “from the hip” shooter. This will basically be there all the time, manually focussed to about 5ft, aperture set to 1.8~4 depending on light. I will take the 15mm also for a lighter and brighter rendering when needed on dull days.

The second Pen Mini (the red one) will have either the 12-60, 15 or 9mm on as needed. This will be the hand cam, the alternate and in some ways the spare. I will use central cluster with face detect AF with this one.

The EM10.2, ailing slightly with a screen that only works when slightly raised, will be the “eye” camera with a long lens, either the 45 for lower light, or the 40-150 kit for range.

This will have spot AF set, for fast and precise eye focus, my preferred way of shooting with longer lenses.

Love the sharp subject and coherent background of the 17mm.

The whole lot, three cameras and 6 lenses, will weigh about the same as an EM1x and 12-40.

Every image in this set was taken with an older and often “lesser” camera. I like the older 16mp sensor and trust the cameras to do what they respectively will be assigned to. The Pen Mini’s I have found are ideal for street, the custom options aligning perfectly with my needs.

Depth, speed, small and ignorable form factor, variety and clean application with low preciousness.

The reality is, many of my favourite Japan images were taken with just these cameras and lenses or similar.

The lot will go over in my least favourite, but useful to put your feet on bag the Lowe Pro ProTactic 350 (old model), also handy to bring back delicate pottery and takes a lap top. the M1 Mac Air laptop will weight more than the kit.

When there I will use a yellow canvas shoulder bag with camera insert that I bought in Himeji last trip.

Japan 10!

I owe myself a book, a big juicy coffee table book called “Japan 7”, referring to the seven trips my wife and I took before COVID and the life span of my passport at the time.

Coming, don’t rush me.

Geez!

Soon we are making our tenth trip there. A bit surreal that, a place I was intrigued by as a child, then pushed to the back seat for most of my adult years, then rediscovered through an aborted trip with a friend (earthquakes, what you gunna do), which led to a re-purposed ticket used with my reluctant wife, who is now a Japan tragic.

Gear, the eternal question.

I want to do either something like I usually did, but have lost touch with, to capture the earliest feelings we had (OM5 Mk1’s, 17, 45, 75-300 etc) or something completely new (video?).

This is our first trip alone since 2018. Our last trip before COVID was shared, the two since were the same, which is great, except it is different. Meg and I tend to just wander, to lose ourselves in the little things, we are not “big ticket” people and tend to avoid the tourist traps, which even when showing others our Japan, tend to be assumed.

We fully intend to spend more time travelling with all our various travelling groups (friends and family), but for now, we just want us in Tokyo, doing us.

This one is owed to my wife in particular, reserved for her 50th in 2020, planned but shelved during the pandemic.

Option 1, traditional.

Panasonic G9 Mk1, EM1.2, 12-60 kit, 17, 45 and 40-150 kit, possibly a Pen Mini.

The G9 in hand with the 17 could do the bulk of the street, switching to the zoom for scenic day trips, the smaller EM1.2 for a longer lens in my bag, probably used about 20% of the time. This is basically my working day kit now (or an EM10 in the bag), with another EM1.2 on the shoulder.

I could do the whole thing with the G9/17 and might, packing just the tiny 45 as an alternate.

The G9 mk1 is chosen because of my older cams, it has the best performance for close in grabs (face/body detect), or turning low and poor/hard light pretty. Japan in spring can be fickle, so Pana’s bright and light colours blended with the more organic Oly glass are well suited.

The EM1.2’s are light weight and work well with fine AF point tele work to the eye. I can also use it’s more controlled bright light performance for street grabs.

The Pen Mini can hang off a shoulder and be ignored, ideal for street grabs.

Pen Mini and 17mm in bright morning Melbourne light. Still one of my favourite trips.

The little kit 12-60 and 40-150 lenses have nothing to prove. I have no qualms using these “plastic fantastic” lenses even for precious work.

Easily good enough for a 12x16” fine art print.

Option 2, radical departure.

The G9II and 24mm Sirui anamorphic with IRIX ND and shoot the whole trip in clips.

Yeah right, pretty out there. Hard to share, harder possibly to actually do with any real point to it, but what if?

I guess the loose plan is to take a dozen little clips of each location, but like a stills or cinematic shooter, keeping it simple, no “cutesy” sh*t just solid docco level footage, 5-10 second locked down clips, blended into a set of quiet little contemplative travel-meditation things (in V-Log or Flat, because I think the SSD would drive me mad). A video diary if you will.

This could be (1) a genuine look into us and how/where we travel, a window into Japanese day to day life and a break through for me, or (2) a big waste of time.

I would need clear vision and organised application and might be keener if I had a BMPCC4k.

Option 3, both, but specialised.

G9.2, 24 Sirui, G9.1 with 17, 45, 40-150 kit.

G9II for video, G9.I with 17 and 45 (to keep weight down) for stills. The anamorphic weighs more than almost anything else, so a heavy option for maybe a big risk, but also maybe a big reward. They share batteries, feel similar and have dual card slots, I can even use them as supports for the other and at a pinch I could leave the G9.I behind on the day and use the G9.2 as a hybrid.

Option 4, both but simpler and lighter (or analysis paralysis wins)

G9II, 8-18, filters for, G9.I 17, 45, 40-150 kit.

I could just use the G9II and any of the stills lenses, basically using it as a backup stills/hybrid and apply letterboxing later. This could mean using the 8-18 on the G9.2 as an all-rounder (with filter options), switching to the 9mm for walking, the 45 for something different and low light etc.

Straying from the cinematic look of anamorphic may defeat the purpose.

Option 1 is appealing most at this point.

Leaving soon-ish, so probably need to get on with this.


Are Some Focal Lengths Becoming Redundant, Or Does It matter Anymore?

Back in the days of yore, the days when 35mm film was the bedrock of photography, your choice of lens was set into stone-like focal lengths. Zooms were rare, often not trusted and sometimes they did fall short in some way compared to zooms*.

The focal lengths made and used were fairly consistent, in part because the format was consistent, but also in part because of long formed habits, expectations or conformity of need.

18mm or wider. Rare and difficult to make, often fish-eye by design. Usually reserved for specialist and when used, they often justified their use by extreme look alone even if edge sharpness was unlikely.

Now super fast, super small, perfectly corrected super wides are a reality.

20-21mm the widest practical length. These straddled the fine line between coverage and obvious distortion, something we were once more sensitive to.

24mm the most common wide angle. This was considered a normal wide, covering a decent area, but without necessarily showing obvious distortion (it could if you wanted, but did not have to). I guess the demise of this as a specialist lens was the 24-70 zoom.

I may be a product of my generation, but for me, anything wider than 24mm rarely appeals, longer lenses are used only by need, rarely for their highly compressed look. My range of choice is interestingly found in a single lens I once owned, the 12-100 Olympus (24-200 equivalent).

28mm the focal length that could not make up its mind if it was wide or not and probably only exists because of the constraints of range finder cameras which limited wide and long options due to parallax and viewfinder constraints. Again, lost in the zoom shuffle.

Some shooters, like Sam Abell of National Geographic used this as their standard, being less prone to distortion than the 24 (although he widened his range in later years).

The Olympus 17mm, a 34mm lens equivalent feels right and natural, but the 15mm, a 30mm equivalent does just as well.

35/40mm the wide-normal, low distortion, un-opinionated, the 40mm is the mathematical true normal (42mm). The 35 became the journalists standard, usually mated with a short tele, the 40mm became a rare novelty, a throw back. The 40mm is the only lens that has neither compression or wide distortion effects, a true neutral point.

50/55/60mm the common standard lens the “nifty 50” is actually the first of the portrait lenses, a little tighter and more compressed than the true 40mm standard. The 50mm became the documenter of people in their world, its very natural perspective (slightly more eye-like than the 40), easily handled most situations and was easy to make well. These perfect design parameters made it the first lens for most, bought on the camera, but also considered boring by many.

75/85/90mm the true portrait lens. This one has a small spread, but like the 50mm, they are very easy to make well, so some stellar lenses came from this range. You are now consciously compressing the subject and can easily blur the background. these and the 100mm were of ten the preferred focal length for insect chasing macro lenses, often doing double duty (not that the average model wanted macro level sharpness).

The Olympus 45mm, a 90mm equivalent is a very capable and natural feeling lens.

100/135mm. The 135 was the longest lens a range finder camera could take normally, so it became a standard short tele by default. Odd length for any other reason than that really, a bit like the 28mm, not one thing nor the other and absorbed into the 80-200 zoom. I have put the 100mm into this class as it is noticeably tighter feeling than the short portrait teles.

180/200mm the most common true telephoto, a bit like the 24mm as a wide angle. Amazing to think this used to feel long to most and in a world of slow films and no stabilisers, I guess for many it was and compression has now become a creative tool or hard to avoid reality.

there is a reason the 70-200 zoom has become the professional bedrock, because all the focal lengths it covers were also.

300mm the realistic maximum for most. The f5.6 or f4 versions were the enthusiasts tele, f2.8’s for the professionals.

Now just the long end of a decent zoom, 300mm was once my “dream” lens.

400+ the longest lenses, rare and precious.

We can now carry around 6-800mm equivalents effortlessly.

There were some older focal lengths, often made to do the job then measured like the 58mm, or the 40-45mm, but these had mostly gone from common use or in the case of the 40-45mm, popped up as pancake curiosity lenses.

In the current era, lens focal lengths have become less set thanks to zooms, or multiple formats often creating new ones and even some older ones have crept back.

The zoom messed up expectations to some extent, giving us fluidity through the range. Primes became specialist tools either fast, small, macro or extreme (sometimes many of these). Zoom users do become aware that they often gravitate from one end to the other, so effectively just avoid lens changes.

It is true to say, where you to look, you may find that you end up setting the lens to maybe an odd focal length quite often (personally I often find I have chosen something around 28-35 on a standard zoom when I bother to check and it occurs to me, the focal length as marked means little these days with stabiliser cropping, various formats and sensor shapes), that maybe investing in a prime would be a good direction.

The MFT format is squarer, so in some ways, no lens has a direct equivalent in 35mm/full frame, but also, the makers have gone “off grid” to some extent. The 15mm, a 30mm equivalent or the 75, a 150 in full frame. Both f these lenses still feel odd to me in focal length, but the reality is, I use them unconscious of the written values and logic says they are even more legitimate than the 28 or 135.

Generic makers also gave us some oddities, often in an effort to make something useful on multiple formats. The 30mm Sigma is a 60 or 45mm equivalent depending on format, none of which are “normal”.

Add to this are ever more common cinematic lenses, always a mess of choices with multiple formats, anamorphic stretch and more accurate measurements required, often resulting in weird measurements.

The reality is, the mechanics of lens and camera design have always told us what can and cannot be done, but as these limitations reduce, we can make and use what ever is practical.






*A curiosity from this period is the Domke bag range. The original bags (F2) were designed for relatively small-flat cameras (F3 Nikon or F1 Canon, sometimes with motor drives, sometimes not) and a kit of prime lenses (20~24, 28~35, 50~55, 85~90, 180~200). They had relatively flat camera spaces, thin lens compartments and pockets. The big AF then digital camera era, the F4/EOS 1 and big zoom period up until the end of the DSLR’s reign, made many of these bags less useful and new ones were designed (F4 Double AF, F3x). In the mirrorless period, the older bags are back in vogue as cameras and lenses are getting smaller again.

Putting Something To Bed (Maybe?)

I keep talking about the 3D vs modern flat look.

Time to see if I can show in a more scientific form, what I feel I see in use.

It may be a hopeful delusion, but even if so, there may be something to it, because without looking for it, I did notice something in this video; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4UAqVYfWLg . In the outside head shot comparisons, especially around the glasses, I noticed something, a feeling of three dimensionality and depth, or maybe I had too much coffee.

This test, like many is flawed. I shot most at close distances, I was not super precise, I did not measure anything or set anything in stone, I just shot and ran it through C1 with a slight adjustment for a sloppy angle.

At F/T2 below and a closeup for sharpness comparison (same-same, but I back focussed a little on the Spectrum, the statue is a little sft, so compare the twigs). T-stops are arguably wider than f-stops, so I should have used f1.8 on the Pana. Pana is on the left.

Now at T/F 4. There is a difference in T to F stop, because the shutter speed varied.

Ok, maybe not super ground breaking other than revealing once again that a Chinese made and designed cine lens can match a plastic-fantastic modern prime worth twice as much.

The Pana is more consistent maybe, but character lies in the unpredictable, the aberrant.

Ok, something more circular now, F/T 4 at top, F/T 2 below, Pana on the right. Colour does not seem a mile apart.

I think part of it might be cooler colour and contrast, the Spectrum lens having a tiny bit more punch in the micro contrast thanks to strong blues in the shadows. I do feel it may also be better corrected for distortion.

Ok, job not done. Lets try the Sigma 28-70 f2.8, possibly a better exponent of the modern camp.

Sigma on the right at f2.8, Spectrum on the left at T3.4. Interestingly, the Sigma is cooler again.

Same but different, maybe the Spectrum’s Bokeh is nicer, smoother.

The look I have reacted to has often shown up at medium distances, so I went outside and did some tests.

Spectrum on the left (consistently lighter images) at T4/f3.4, top one focussed on the small plant and T5.6/f6.7 lower focussed forward and back.

Ok, maybe in the top pair there is a slight feeling of depth to the Spectrum image (look from the small plant to the tin behind in both), but this may be exposure, otherwise the only thing I am seeing is nicer Bokeh and a lighter, more open image from the Spectrum, more contrast and saturation from the Sigma and the 50mm marker on the Sigma does not match the Spectrum (slightly tighter).

Sharpness is much the same (Spectrum on left) in real world situations, the Sigma’s main advantage is a tendency to underexpose slightly, something the S5’s like. Notice the slightly less flat looking rendering in the Spectrum file or I may be dreaming it?

Looks like I have a pair of cine lenses that serve no other purpose than different handling to my S-Primes and Sigma zoom, with a slightly different rendering of Bokeh, colour, contrast and at middle distances maybe a slightly more natural rendering of perspective?

Of course it goes deeper than that. A lens and camera combo have a dynamic that is harder to put into words than simple “nice” or “harmonious”, especially when talking about manual focus, throw length, heft, dampening, rotation direction etc.

They work or they don’t and I feel with the Spectrum lenses there is a benefit to how they handle, their weight and solidness, a mindset they impart.

A Question For My (Near) Future Self

First up, I am not a gear tragic (anymore, well nt just for want, more for need), but I have to stay relevant and make good choices to make my work better and my life easier with controlled outlay. There is an element of fun and excitement involved, but unlike in past years, it is grounded in expanding capabilities and therefore possibilities.

My needs as a professional are to field a two camera sports kit (with a backup) and lenses to cover distance and indoor light, a different and flexible double cam kit for dailies, again with backups, a three video camera setup (2 is fine for interviews, 3 are better) and some personal gear.

I have that now, but some little improvements could be made, the question is which direction and how much or little would make maximum impact.

So, from here?

the big question is do I continue with MFT as my main format, upgrade it as I go, or switch gradually to a full frame kit? A second option, something I have been pondering more and more lately, do I exit full frame and go all MFT?

My full frame kit is small but capable, but it is sometimes also a distraction.

I bought into a S5 kit pre G9II release for video (cheaper than the GH6 body alone), was then rewarded with some great cine glass at half price on clearance, bought into the S-primes and then a Sigma 28-70 to address a practical need (shallow depth of field with flexibility). Most recently I even bought an anamorphic for it, to round out the set (I have 2 MFT ones, this adds a full frame and third angle).

I reflex-bought the G9II when released regardless because it was a better camera for me overall, even with a strong full frame offer and I still chase MFT glass in preference and use it for 95% of my stills work.

To be honest, if I had a crystal ball moment and waited for the G9II, then sprang for the 10-25 f1.7, my life would have been cleaner and easier overall.

My wish list from this point is confusing to say the least.

The GH7 is in many ways the best Panasonic has to offer. The SI.2 is it’s equal in full frame, but comes with full frame issues (more and dearer lenses all bigger, most heavier) and it flies in the face of my main kit. I know there are new full frames coming, but they are too much for my needs.

The GH7 is as robust as the S1.2 (some say the screen is actually better), has all I need as far as video features go and is currently $2500au, about $1500 cheaper than the SI.2.

It would support my cine lens kit, free up the G9II for stills (stills upgrade), improve internal sound and recording CODECs and finally give me the option of the paid ARRI-Log upgrade.

AF and stabe are excellent, both helped out slightly by the MFT format and what I would save could cover most of the cost of a 10-25 f1.7, a superior, video specific, standard lens.

From here, the G9II re-surfaces, realistically giving me all I need for a second video or stills cam for sub $2000au. The GH7 does not actually add much more for a BMVA 12G user and the OM-1 is still dearer for stills.

If it is a camera just for video and a B-Raw one at that, then the BMPCC4k is sub $1500au new, plentiful second hand and now has ProRes RAW! This could also free up my G9II for stills, and I have all I need to fix battery and storage issues.

This option means I can shoot with three anamorphic or spherical cine lenses in B-Raw and still have a mobile ProRes capable G9II handy.

Which brings me to another 5” 12G, something my head tells me makes sense, possibly in conjunction with the S5 firmware upgrade. These upgrade any Panasonic to at least ProRes capable, give me three or four B-Raw cameras (and any future ones), a spare screen/recorder, and all the cameras have a similar look at their core. The only thing against it is the price of the BMPCC4k (see above).

At some point I may need a new 40-150 f2.8 (mine is well worn and showing it), but these are plentiful second hand and even quite cheap new. The 50-200 tempts me, but not at the price, I do however appreciate it’s driving down the cost of the older lens.

A lens that effortlessly grabs these a split second after the camera is switched over is more than enough (I run the f2.8 or f4 version and the 300 in tandem with two EM1x’s). The 300 got the initial kick.

Still in front with MFT, the butchers bill coming in at about $800-5500au all up depending on path taken. These are acceptable running costs and address genuine video improvements, with stills upgrades.

Full frame.

The SI.2 is a logical upgrade (or an S5IIx on sale-they seem to be holding their price at $2700au+), for full B-Raw support in a newer camera, but it still needs things (third BMVA), would logically lead to a full frame system space and possibly some dissatisfaction.

The $300au upgrade for my S5II makes more sense I guess as most of the other benefits of the S5IIx are nullified by B-Raw codecs (All-i internal, SSD out) and I have it now in a balanced kit, but it rankles for some reason.

The S5II upgrade is looking better as I write this.

Other brands tempt.

The Nikon ZR can take my L-mount glass with an adapter and I can source a couple of cheap IRIX lenses in the Z Mount. $5000au and a whole other system?

The Fuji XM-5 is a curiosity, a powerful one with another look and some funky stuff in a little power house. Adapting lenses will be the thing, maybe worth a look.

Lets stick t what we know………….. .

So the core of it;

Stick with MFT as the primary pathway, my comfort space and some full frame as a specialised problem solver or, shift to full frame gradually?

Gut and heart say pathway one, head leans towards pathway 2, but reluctantly. Ironically, I am shy to move into full frame because of image quality or more to the point easily achieved image quality. Yes, the full frames are technically better, but I trust MFT to get me what I want, I am less comfortable with full frame, even after more than two years growing the system and three decades using it.

I just find the depth of field math and benefits of the bigger sensor are not in balance for my needs or how I like to shoot.

Current thoughts in order of preference;

  1. BMPCC4k to add a third and very clean B-Raw option with more BM goodness, also now with supported ProRes Raw in a dedicated MFT video camera. I really just want one to get that Black Magic goodness, hedged with mild fears of having a camera that does not mesh with my others and is quickly loosing relevance (or is it really?). This does balance with my cine lens options, makes use of some wasted rigging and adds a “cinematic” element more in line with my preferences (not the way everything is going). The question here is not so much “is it worth it”, more one of “what else can you get with all it’s capabilities for the money”. The G9II would then become a hybrid doing double duty as a sports camera and mobile video option.

  2. Second BMVA 5” 12G and possibly S5II firmware upgrade to fully enable my G9II or S5II to B-Raw. A bit of a waste in some ways as the G9II is already a handy mobile rig with ProRes HQ V-Log or All-i internal and the S5II does good work as a hybrid. I do feel that sometimes I am sacrificing some of the BMVA’s potential on older Pana cams where full integration is lacking, but the whole thing somehow balances out and those cameras are better with it. There is nothing stopping me from using the G9II with the BMVA, it is just fiddly to swap and I cannot run three at once.

  3. Second G9II for stills increasing my stills/sports power (yet to be fully proven) freeing up the first G9II (but that basically is already). Still only have two BMVA’s, so nothing really changes in video land, only stills.

  4. The GH7 with it’s added benefits, again freeing the G9II, but little else.

  5. S5IIx on sale…… not sure I am liking the direction that would go.

  6. S1.2, which is as they say, the “tipping point” and will undoubtedly lead to other poor decisions like a shift to full frame, dearer, bigger and heavier lenses.

This started with a GH7 based thought stream, but has ended, as usual, back at the beginning with the BMPCC4k, or Video Assist and S5II firmware as the only real options if anything at all.

The reality is, as it stands now, the G9II with a BMVA is my most powerful camera technically, but my relative weakest in low light (only one without dual ISO and a “normal” MFT sensor). It is also my most powerful video cam without a BMVA and my highest res stills camera.

If I need multiple cameras to match, I can run them all in V-Log, some in ProResHQ as well for extra colour depth (The G9II, GH5s and S5).

This also brings up something I want to test more, which is the benefit of shooting 10 bit V-Log in ProRes 422 or PR 422 HQ at 1080 (B-Raw is not available to me in 1080 at capture), producing a high quality file smaller than any 4K quality setting (18 or 27 MBs compared to 34 MBs at 12:1 or 21-58 at Q5) with full dynamic range, possibly improving my consistency between more than two cameras and giving me more choice in pairings.

I have had a lot of success with V-Log and anyway B-Raw is not fully realised in most of my combinations, so for client work, would this mildly compressed 10 bit format with full dynamic range (controlled by the Log codec, PR only adds colour depth for grading) be more than enough? Most comparisons give the gong to B-Raw when mistakes are made, so let’s assume I get things roughly right? I may also look into HLG for lower noise recording.

A quick test today using the BMVA 12g 5”, looks good and the partially used SSD still had over 700mins available. Ed. nope, not fun to edit.

Another thought I have been sitting on for a while is to use BMVA’s only on MFT cameras, the two full frames limited to hybrid/V-Log and paired for light interviews.

Short Term Appreciation, Long Term Adoration And A Sobering Find.

My “budget” cine lens journey has been interesting.

I have had some genuine wins, the odd miss, but overall, for what I have spent, my return has been well and truly in the black.

As gear gets used, it either cements itself in your work space or falls away and often it is not the big things, the things you researched rigorously, but the little things, like camera to lens synergies, mechanical handling quirks, cosmetics, image rendering surprises and sometimes nothing you can put your finger on.

A prime example (‘scuse the pun) to me is the Spectrum 50mm T2 and it’s stable mate the 35mm T2. Reviews for these are universally favourable, but vary and each reviewer tends to lean towards one or the other.

For me it has been the 50mm.

The Spectrum 50mm is a giver. Handling the lens is delightful, even for stills, everything is silky smooth or reassuringly tight where it needs to be.

It has a “glassy” clean and clear rendering with slightly muted contrast, beautiful neutral-cool colours that tend to make warm tones pop, an old fashioned 3D rendering with nice Bokeh. It is for most uses an “invisible” lens.

It is a story telling lens. At T4, it is “cinematically” perfect to my eye, able to snap out the main point of focus, while including other elements harmoniously and slight focus misses go largely unnoticed.

There is a little focus breathing, but not enough to notice in use, flare is controllable, but still there if you want it and overall I respond positively to what I see.

There is a feeling of three dimensionality, an old fashioned roundness and depth that is often missing with “perfect” modern glass. I often see now, that when a face is used as a test image, some lenses have a feeling of roundness and depth, others are flat and cardboard cut-out like. A recent comparison of Vespid 1’s vs Canon FD primes showed this, but the reviewer did not comment on that as the difference, just a feeling of “something nice” about the older FD lenses.

Things can still “pop” at T2, but even the seemingly flat plane of focus feels deeper. Contrast is lower, but still not enough to tame the highlight blow-out my S5’s are prone to (there seems no limit to their shadow recovery-see belw, but highlights are an issue). It is hard t put a name on it, but some lenses let you feel like you can reach into a frame and touch things.

In the pairs above and below I have aggressively recovered shadows with no ill effect, but struggled to get even mildly hot highlights back. This is basically the opposite to MFT files.

Mono from this lens is also very malleable, very filmic. Notice how the length of Lucy is rendered with no flattening which helps render the length of her naturally.

I has a nice balance of colour, contrast, sharpness and Bokeh. Ironically, the warm light and reflectance have rendered colours more like my memories of the 35mm.

Sharpness is certainly there, pleasing and natural to the eye without being hyper.

The image pair below again shows how easy it is to blow out highlights with S5’s (maximum recovery applied to little effect), but even a fine hair is clearly rendered.

Now the 35mm semi reviewed before I did some test shots!

The other lens in the pair is the 35 T2 Spectrum, a decent lens that I have struggled with, so it gets little use.

Mechanically it is tighter in the focus ring than the 50, tight enough to be bothersome by comparison and the aperture ring is decidedly stiff, but conversely the lens mount is slightly loose (worst on the S5 Mk2 where there is slight shifting when I shift aperture), resulting in a less satisfying experience overall. A follow focus does help a little, but I don’t like using one unless I have to.

I go from buttery smooth, one-finger lightness to being aware of a firmer push needed. However, the focus ring is stable and the aperture ring won’t move by accident, so I don’t do that occasional ring miss and change aperture rather than focus, like on the 50.

Colour, based on reviews and my own comparisons, is quite green-warm at odds with the cool-Magenta lean of the 50 (which is closer to normal for me), meaning if I want to use it in conjunction with the 50 I have to adjust before or after (about 2 steps magenta/blue).

I do use the 35 on the cooler rendering S5 and the 50 on the warmer S5II, but even then they are far from a perfect match, the adjustment is about 600k with a sizeable tint shift.

Other optical characteristics are similar, but overall, I do not grab the 35 T2 over my 35 S-Prime, which is actually a close match to the 50 T2.

So, I did some tests shots the next day, a totally different day after 10mm of rain, cool, moody, dark, but the same space.

There is a slight green tint, but the day is also dull and cool (same camera, the S5II in AWB).

Yep a green tint, but nothing I cannot fix.

A slight blue and magenta shift, easy done.

Nothing fixed here, so lighting and subject can affect results anyway.

I shot this at 1/30th at T2, 6400 and still had to lighten it, the 50mm image above was 1/250th at ISO 4000. It seems the combination of the warmer lens and camera and cool day have managed near perfect white balance on the wall (the cup is slightly cream-white and copping the full dull daylight). Notice again, blown highlights.

Bokeh transition is smooth to invisible, a bit like my 17 Oly, but with smoother backgrounds (focus is on the near curtain edge).

It is amazing what a day can do. the warm leaning S5II with the warm-green 35 has been a no-go for me up until now, but on this cool and gloomy day, they match well.

Depth is well expressed.

Takeaways.

The 35mm made me naturally want to get closer to the subject, which I tend to do with wider lenses, but this seemed a real pull, something I find happens if you “listen” to a lens. The close focus and front Bokeh both support that. Focus breathing seemed to be less obvious, but a wide can do that also.

I will admit, the 35 was slightly easier to grab focus with, not sure why.

The colour shift is there, partially hidden by the light on the day, but there, with the handy feature of taming some of the semi-blown highlights the S5’s exhibit. I do feel that it’s colouring is a clearer and easier fix than I remember.

The focus ring is tight, but even on the S5II, not horribly so. It is a two finger push not the one finger roll of the 50mm. The aperture ring is genuinely tight enough to prohibit changes on the fly, but also, where you put it, it stays!

Sharpness, Bokeh etc are similar.

If I had to give the lenses a character, I would say the 50 is a delicate, precise and persnickety lens a bit like a quiet accountant with a gentle creative side. Maybe a little aloof, happy to stand back and watch.

The 35 is more of a laid back country kid, relaxed and characterful, happy to get in close and get it’s hands dirty, with a more serious, practical side under the surface.

Was I wrong?

Happy to say, maybe.

The State Of Play, Decade By Decade.

I have seen 4 decades of photography.

From my perspective the journey from my perceptions in the 80’s to now seems to be a century long or more. I can remember what I thought, but struggle to remember how I felt or even why I thought it.

I will try to sum it up better though, partly because a trip down memory lane is always cathartic, but also to remind us all, just how far we have come, what we have learned and equally, what we have forgotten.

1980’s

The vibe at this time was one of “everything is new", everything is cool and also confusing”. The shape of the beast is saving up for film and processing (I had a weekly allowance), shooting, waiting to see, taking notes because I was serious, repeating, getting slowly better, wasting more time and money, but learning from any source you could (usually books and magazines). Nothing was rushed, you got into a rhythm of delayed gratification. The gear was a matter of weeding out the duds and celebrating the winners and technique was all and it lasted. My monthly drop of magazines kept me excited, my collection of coffee table books started.

My first camera (T80 Canon-terrible, but a start) was an 18th birthday gift to myself with little inspiration other than an awareness of an absent father and passed grandfather with photographic interests, but they were only really memories for me, so I will assume it was a personal choice.

Cameras at this point were a mix of all metal-manual everything rarely with shutter and aperture priority available in some form, or the very first “modern” cameras with curvy plastic grips, full or semi auto modes, little screens and built in motors.

My main cameras at the time were the Canon T90 (x3), F1 (x2), F1n, A-1 and Olympus OM-1 and OM-4ti (x2). I had plenty of lenses, favouring primes, because we needed the speed (see below) including long glass like a frightfully expensive for the time 300 f2.8 Tokina, Olympus 180 f2.8, Canon FD 200 f2.8 and 135 f2. Wish I still had most of these.

Film stock was Kodachrome 64, or Fuji Velvia 50 slide films, I tried most black and white films, favouring the older Tri-X (rated at 250, developed in 1:1 ID11 or 1:100 Rodinal), XP-2 and APX 25 being specialist and occasional Fuji Reala print film.

Film speed or ISO was the major control point at this time and with the exception of XP2, was fixed per roll, so fast glass was not only cool, but often necessary at ISO 50! Serious shooters shot mono or slide film. The big issue with print film was actually lab processing, something I did not fully realise at the time until I actually had a job doing it and when I did the answer, to process your own was prohibitively difficult.

I went to enormous lengths to get medium format quality from 35mm using APX 25 and heavily diluted Rodinal (200:1 with low agitation) and my favourite books were “The Darkroom Cookbook” and “Image Quality” with consistent if difficult to achieve success.

I learned to develop black and white prints, spending some time in the dark room, but not that much as I hated it to be honest. My father in law helped me build two excellent darkrooms, but no matter how I tried, my darkroom work is mostly memories of obsessive cleaning dust off surfaces, smelly chemicals and expensive, often disappointing results.

I learned a lot of theory and could enable others, something I realise is a thing with me, which was handy as I was always working in the industry in some form. I developed a skill for making hard things sound easy, but for me, photography was mostly sporadic mono prints from a vast catalogue of unrealised negatives, a collection of slides with little chance of being seen (the reality with slides) and lots of beautiful books of others’ work.

Highlights were a trip to Prague in the post Communism 80’s with 100 rolls of film, which felt like living the actual life.

My inspirations were contemporary black and white photographers like Salgado and Michael Kenna and National Geo colour shooters, Sam Abell in particular.

Late in the decade, I started to look at auto focus more, even after the ludicrous T80, helped by Canons ascendency here with the new EOS mount cameras, but I did not jump at this point as I felt AF was not there and nor was the system as a whole (lots of plastic, not a fan).

1990’s

General vibe for me now was one of self assured exploration. The process was much the same as before. Magazine and book collections grew (still have many of the books and some of the mags), technical stuff is honed, costs lower in proportion to results and gear gets ever more professional. This is the last decade of film ascendency, so the shoot-wait-process rhythm is still king, but there is a feeling of change, especially in processing which made slide film more accessible for some.

The 1990’s were much the same as the 80’s, but with more mature expectations focussing on quality, so I fully dabbled in medium format (Bronica, Pentax, Fuji) and dreamt of formats large and small. Ironically, the two cheapest formats were 35mm and large format (4x5” or 8x10”), medium format was a killer in every way.

I also discovered the wonder that was a Pentax Spot meter.

I was employed by a photography firm/retail business that used Olympus, Nikon and Hasselblad as well as Sinar large format cameras, so I had some exposure to many brands and processes. We did commercial and wedding photography in the era of few professionals and not many more amateurs, so being a photographer, which it dawns on me now I actually was (more an apprentice I guess), was something back then.

We still shot Polaroids before portraits, studio lights were a major process, big heavy and expensive, everything was done with a risk to return formula as film, paper, batteries and time were expensive.

AF came into my life in the form of a pair of EOS 50’s, then an A2 (EOS 5 without eye focus) and a full system switch. This hurt and in hindsight, I could have as easily switched to Nikon at this point, but Canon loyalty reigned and in AF they were in front thanks to a new mount.

It is important to remember here, you are only buying the body and system, the colours and look were in the film or print stock, so there was no loyalty to a “look” only legend, form factor, options, performance and reliability.

I dreamed of a life travelling, so manual cameras that did not need batteries were still on my mind, the Nikon FM2 a favourite, but I stuck to plastic fantastic EOS.

Film brands were slowly offering slightly faster options like Velvia 100 (from the 50 original), but mono films were losing their mojo a little with reduced silver content and mono processed through colour print soup was convenient and popular (XP2 and the like).

The first serious digital cameras were emerging, but cost a house for sub-par performance.

I fully shed Olympus, Canon FD and my medium format did not last long as photography at this time went from a maximum quality obsession to a need to just record my life.

The 2000’s

Vibe now is confused apathy. The whole industry is split between the “film is better” school and the “wake up and smell the silicone” crowd. I remember reading an article in Camera and Darkroom about the contributors gear and it was a split field between various film formats and the digital enabled. This was probably the last time I felt safe in film land and for many, film was still viable, scanners were the new thing, so we thought.

With the 2000’s I had a decent AF kit, including 100 macro, 17-40 f4 and 70-200 f2.8, lots of L and regular primes, lots of cameras.

To be honest my photography was on the wane with the looming monster of digital and a feeling of apathetic confusion regarding the what, why and when of it all. I was not a computer user, never even sent an email, so that side of things felt like starting all over again, with bells on and the “Photoshop manipulation” train was going full steam, making it all feel like the province of tech nerds, not photographers.

We travelled a bit, often being the main driver for my imaging, but it was clear I was dropping away from the fold, jaded by a change I felt was killing the soul of photography.

A friend at the time sold me a third hand EOS 10D, an excellent camera and reasonably compatible with my kit (wide angle lenses were an issue for everyone at this time, my 17-40L being the new standard) and taught me Lightroom 2 before I had even sent that email!

It made sense and I picked up the basics quickly, but the whole computer thing still did my head in. I can remember losing some files, never to be found to this day.

Even still with film in my life and my digital shift, I was a very occasional shooter, not very productive, which digital was effectively free to do, so seeds were sewn. I had a Deviant Art site and feverishly added images as they came.

I became “like” obsessed, something I have rejected since.

This decade was the big shift, film becoming ever less popular and digital growing, often with little real reason, but it was the new horizon. Most films were still available, neg scanners were being used by papers, printers etc, but the shift to cameras with digital sensors was clear.

My obsession was the EOS 5D, but the cost alone made it a professional camera only ($4000+ twenty years ago). I remember saying to a friend once that “the full frame 12mp on the 5D is enough for anything!”. Probably more true than not, but things moved on.

Mid decade I got a job in the cities top camera store, my third such store, after a long period out of the industry, right when the last big camera bubble hit. We did literally millions in sales per year (per salesman some years), selling the now “more than enough” EOS, Nikon, Sony (ex Minolta), Pentax and Four Thirds DSLR’s and compacts, then the early mirrorless movement emerged.

The 2010’s

The vibe is again one of change, but what, when and how? Film is on the decline, but plenty still use it professionally for art and studio work especially in larger formats. Digital is now king of the heap for most, making the big cost ever evolving cameras, the new replacement for film.

The Nikon D80-90 and D700, Canon 40-50D and 5DII and III, pretty much hold the industry up. It was a golden time for photography as you could pick any horse, they were all about even as digital was seen as good enough, but medium format film was still better (and few could afford medium format digital).

The 2010’s saw many major shifts in my life and the industry as a whole.

Sales were still strong through the early years, a true high point for the industry, exciting and fun and it seemed something new was constantly arriving, but also a frustrating time really as mirrorless emerged in a fairly hostile environment.

The big two, Canon and Nikon and the original SLR maker Pentax (it’s in the name) were sticking to DSLR’s, while most others were exploring mirrorless with mixed success. I personally tried a few all at once (Sony, Fuji, Panasonic and Olympus with Canon SLR’s), aware of their advantages and disadvantages and fuelled by direct comparison to older DSLR designs.

After trying Sony, Fuji, Panasonic and OlympusI went with Olympus in the end, the only brand with a viable semi-pro camera and system for my needs, if mirrorless shortcomings in AF were accepted. Those needs were for a travelling companion, a perfect fit, but I kept a little EOS gear also.

Thank heavens for Japan and the EM-5 Mk1. It kept the flame alive and no better place to gain a context of time.

Film was dead, very cool film cameras effectively worthless. I scored all sorts, most of which I later sold for as much as they originally cost when the resurgence came (next decade). Interestingly the whole film resurgence thing was a doughnut with a hole in the middle, that hole being anything plastic fantastic. Only old metal cams were popular, the rest disappeared.

I left the store mid to late decade, about the time we decided Sony was finally a thing with the A7II, even with their pathetic lens range at the time. It still amazes me that Sony, a brand not taken seriously before then and riding on the coat tails of Minolta, a respected but smaller brand, has become the bedrock of a new generation, all thanks to getting video AF sorted first.

Sales were much lower and the whole thing less satisfying, often coming down to cost alone versus the internet and little of interest being the main problems.

Everyone had decent cameras so upgrades were hard to justify, the internet was confusing things, phones were getting decent, killing the compact market and mirrorless was still the outlier. Nobody wanted a new SLR, but mirrorless was a patchwork quilt of ideas and mixed successes, so people waited.

Personally I was shooting mid to low end Olympus for our many trips to Japan, concentrating on the biggest benefits of the format, size and speed. I was still into photography, but my interest in anything other than personal stuff had been shelved. I was disinterested in DSLR’s, Sony, video, or phones, so most of the big news was not news for me.

One highlight was early dabbling with printers (Canon 9000 II the Pro 10s), which was far more interesting than being in a dark room. I wasted a lot of paper, learned enough.

In 2016 I got sick, near death sick and my mother bought in some magazines during my three month recovery, one of which was an English photo mag.

I got the bug again.

Spurred on by this random inspiration I bought a Pen F, the 40-150 f2.8 and I think the 12-40 f2.8. Then I bought an EM1 mk2, picked up some nice glass, kept shooting with a now semi-pro kit.

The 2020’s

The latest vibe I am living now is “do it while you still can, the future can wait” and old lessons still have some legs.

The new decade saw me return to the camera shop under a new owner, the previous owner feeling my experience would help with the transition.

The process of photography at this point was very much Adobe controlled, Lightroom and Premier in their later iterations had no real competition. AI was a tiny little shadow hiding in plain sight inside these programmes.

Film had a resurgence, fuelled by a discontent younger wave, maybe wanting to rekindle what we had so quickly run away from. The many ditched film cameras of the previous decade become valuable again (I sold a mint condition Zenit for more than it cost originally).

Sony is now dominant as video becomes a thing. They missed the big thing early on, that a system is a system needing lenses and support, not just a constant parade of same-but-different cameras, but recovered and ruled the early part of the decade. People even seemed to see past the odd colour science.

When they woke up, they and Sigma colluded to create the modern look of flattened perspective, ultra sharp edge to edge, wide open performance. The big movers at this time were the triad of Sony, Sigma and gimbals.

Video is now an expectation, Sony nailing video AF first, thus winning that race, but seminal cameras like the Panasonic GH5 also made their mark.

After dabbling with a school for a little while as a second or third job, I was now shooting in schools properly after leaving the camera shop the week before COVID lock downs came into effect.

We were quarantined in the state, the privilege of being an island, so I could work with standard precautions. Against the odds, I started a new career at the start of COVID, in my 50’s in a shrinking field!

My mother passed early in this period (not COVID as it goes), leaving me a small inheritance outside of her estate. I spent some of it on my Oly 300 f4, first EM1x and 8-18 Leica, all needed if I was to go next level. None of these things have proven poor buys, the 300 alone landing me contracts like AFL Tasmania.

I switched to Capture 1 thanks to buying an EM1x with an aging Mac and realising that meant incompatible Lightroom. This was a good move overall, something I was reminded of when I tried Lightroom again recently.

At some time in this journey I tried video and I liked it which has led to purchasing no fewer than 6 Panasonic cameras including a pair of full frames. It is now another feather in my professional cap, with caveats. I am keen to avoid it being a time killer, something it does so well, so I am limiting myself to capture, process and delivery, not production.

Like the Adobe alternative Capture 1, I went with DaVinci Resolve for video processing. I will admit it is a steep learning curve, but I am getting there and like C1, it is for me better than Adobe.

Adobe at this point has been purged from my system, no easy feat.

In the last few years, AI has risen as the new wonderful, putting a cloud over most things photo and video. Only recording authenticity is relatively safe, AI benefits for me are coming behind the scenes in processing power (I now shoot ISO 6400 in MFT format without consideration, unthinkable in my early years).

Video is now on an even playing field, all major brands improving AF and functionality, even non video aligned companies like Nikon are now decent and Canon, Panasonic and others are fighting back against Sony.

The current state of play is one of accessible abundance on the verge of another and probably the last big shift as AI replaces image capture for many. Ironically the phone will be the first victim as everyday users will jump first, as they do.

*

So, what has changed over the last four and a half decades?

We have gone from all metal bodied, manual everything cameras and lenses shooting mono or slide film if you were serious, colour print film with zooms if not, all in the shadow of the giants of recent times who mostly did the same things the same way, to mirrorless hybrid digital cameras and phones all capable of better stills and video quality than even professional cameras of only decades ago, all stabilised and video-AF capable, but with possibly no future.

Are we better off?

My fondest memories are drawn from the 1990’s the era of mystery, firsts and reward for effort, the transition from all manual to semi auto, but both still mattered. A feeling of longevity, grandeur and respect. The photo mattered, the gear was just the enabler. Magazinearticles and even adds were cool, emotive, classy.

An early Sam Abell, an image that still influences my thinking today.

I don’t feel this is about the time of my life, more the times they were, but when we were living them, they were just what they were.

There is a lesson in that.

I cannot say I have enjoyed the industry as much since, but it has obviously kept me involved, no matter how tenuously.





In Praise Of A Little Miracle Lens Or Two

The lens I am talking about here is a kit lens.

Kit lenses do not have a great rep. They are almost always slow and variable in maximum aperture, because fast apertures are by definition for pro or prime lenses. They are usually mediocre in performance, rarely stand out, are almost never well built or weather sealed and their range is pedestrian.

I have come across some decent ones over time, the Panasonic 12-60 for MFT and Fuji 18-55 f2.8~4 are stand outs, so I guess it is no surprise the 20-60 full frame kit lens is pretty decent.

Pretty decent?

Well made, like the same build quality as the $1000au S-Primes, including weather sealed, it focusses super fast and smooth enough for video. It is slow (3.5~5.6), but these days with full frame sensors it is not a huge deal and for an MFT shooter, f5.6 is actually close to the MFT depth of field equivalent of f2.8 at the slow end (so about f1.8 at the short)!

It is effectively par-focal with minimal focus breathing, so a good video option. I would like a slightly smoother zoom throw, but with a focus assist ring attached to the zoom, it is decent.

It starts at 20mm and close focus is insane at the wide end, so it manages to be a creative wide macro (like my 9mm MFT) and cover true wide angle at f3.5 speed (near enough to f2.8 to count), so for all purposes it is fast and light enough to hold its own as a decent wide angle alone, especially in a kit with fast 35, 50 and 85mm lenses and a Sigma 28-70 f2.8.

Recently I needed to travel light for a full day while covering long, wide, in the middle and video, so I decided on this kit;

  • EM1x with the weighty 300 f4. Not negotiable as a lot of the important images would be taken at distance.

  • EM1.2 with the 40-150 kit (another winner). This is the lightest of my three 40-150’s.

  • S5II with the 20-60 as both a wide~standard stills camera and video option. The high ISO performance and shallow depth of field make it ideal for shooting in daylight with a 5 stop Nikon Archrest ND filter.

This file is about perfect (except for the slight overlap behind one of the girls). The blur is pleasant, context retained, sharpness excellent, the image harmonious overall.

Great close focus and speed. Banjo is his name.

A classic wide shot without any real distortion or weirdness. When I started in this game, 20mm was considered the widest lens for most, anyhting wider was very expensive, heavy, mediocre or all of these. Funny how it is just a middling-wide these days.

I will give credit to Capture 1 and the lens for handling this strongly back lit scene. Most other shots on the day of the winning team were less crisp as shooting towards the lake is basically straight into the sun, the Pana lens handles this well.

The extra width of the lens helps produce extra drama.

Knee deep in water, speed, quality and versatility are important.

A favourite, the Bokeh, sharpness and flare control are excellent.

Also worthy of note is the little 40-150 kit which did some amazing things.

When shallow depth of field is not necessary or even wanted, this little lens shines.

It is also perfect for discreet snipes and shows here enough separation to make the image work, while keeping some context.

Plenty of quality there.

This image is a freak. The taken file is a mess of glare, but after processing, every rower is visible.

I used one of my best lenses with two of my cheapest and there was very little difference in end result. Yes the 300 was empowering and stands up to insane scrutiny, but for the work we do day to day and how it is usually handled, these two kit lenses, worth about $200 each in their respective kits, are ideal as long as the light is kind.

I even find lower contrast kit lenses are often better in bright light.

It is nice when you can pick your glass by available light and weight without worrying about quality. There are a lot of big heavy and expensive super lenses out there, often a waste of energy for most uses.